Going to change my brakes for the first time

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Hi everyone,

I have a 2001 Honda Civix HX that needs front brake pads. I was also told to have my rotors machined. I am thinking of taking the rotors off and bringing them to a machine shop, and simply swapping out the old pads for new ones.

I was wondering if anyone has any advice for a rookie in this area? It seems straightforward enough, but additional knowledge can never hurt. I am looking at maybe getting Duralast gold pads, can anyone recommend me some better or is that a solid deal?

Thank you!
 
If your brakes don ot pulsate, no need to machine your rotors. Waste of money.

Use OEM brake pads, i find that most aftermarket ceramic pads are garbage.

Make sure to remove both caliper pins, clean and re-lube with silicone paste.

Torque caliper bolts to proper specs, i think for that car is about 24ft pd.
 
+2 Leave your rotors alone. Inspect them, but if they're shot, just get new ones. They'll be thicker, and they're cheap enough.

Shot= heavily grooved, flaking/chunking rust in the cooling vanes, supposedly swept surface rusted, uneven thickness "to the middle" on one side of the vanes vs the other, or if the drivers rotor is substantially different from the passengers. You can post a pic here when you have it apart and we'll tell you it's all fine.
 
How much do they charge to machine the rotors? Usually once you factor in the cost of doing them, it's usually just easier to get new rotors. That way you don't have to go to the shop in a different car, wait for them to be machined then go back. The cost of new ones probably isn't much more than getting them machined and it makes the job simpler.
 
+3
Don't bother with the rotors unless the brakes pulse when you apply them.
A little anti seize on the caliper pins will help them operate smoothly and make them easier to remove next time.
Make sure you take the cap off the reservoir or you'll have a tough time pushing the pistons back in their bores.
Let us know how it goes and take some pics!
Good luck!
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
How much do they charge to machine the rotors? Usually once you factor in the cost of doing them, it's usually just easier to get new rotors. That way you don't have to go to the shop in a different car, wait for them to be machined then go back. The cost of new ones probably isn't much more than getting them machined and it makes the job simpler.


I'm sure it varies by location, but around here maching rotors and buying new ones costs the same.
 
EBC has different types of high quality pads. According to their website, it's always better to machine the rotors when changing pads, so that a new layer for the new pads can form on the braking surface.
 
Duralast gold are solid FF rated pads. Most of your big box auto parts store top pads are good while their entry level pads usually suck.

If you want a stronger friction material the GG rated pads, you can buy some Akebono Street Performance pads on the web.
 
Originally Posted By: llmercll

I was wondering if anyone has any advice for a rookie in this area? It seems straightforward enough, but additional knowledge can never hurt. I am looking at maybe getting Duralast gold pads, can anyone recommend me some better or is that a solid deal?

Thank you!


There are a ton of YouTube videos explaining how to do brake pads. Watch a few, and re-watch whichever one you like best a few times. You could even do a search for Honda Civic brake videos and watch people do the job on your same model car.

If you get the rotors turned, it shouldn't cost you more than $15 each. The place by my work does it for $10, so it varies by area, but some places try to rip you off. Just wanted to give you a heads up so if you decide to turn them you don't get taken for a ride.

As for brake pads, I've heard good things about Akebono and Weaver ThermoQuiet brake pads. Right now there's a rebate on the Weaver ThermoQuiet pads that will get you $15 off. A set of Weavers on Amazon should be under $30, so they should cost you about $15. You could also see if any auto shop near you has them on sale and just pick them up locally.

Don't forget to lube/grease the parts that need it, to keep everything quiet and operating as it should.
 
do not use traditional anti-seize as was posted above on the slide pins. It was not designed to lubricate, especially at the temps calipers get to. Use synthetic siliconebraje grease like silglide. Also grease the Chanel the pads ride in, some people recommend greaseing the back of the pad, to reduce vibration and noise
 
The rotors on modern cars are a lot thinner than they used to be.
Your also in the rust belt.

Replace them.

If the car sits a lot, get the Duralast Gold or other coated rotor (it will be black)
This will wear off where the pad hits, but the rest will remain.
If it's a daily driver, or cost an issue, stock Duralast will work.

Pads, same story. Stock Duralast semi-metallic work OK.
Gold Ceramic will squeak less, but cost more.
 
Tools needed -
6 point sockets, ratchet (Lowes has a 19 piece socket set for under $20)
Breaker bar
Cheater bar (3-5 foot pipe that slides onto the breaker bar)
A squeeze packet of antiseize
A squeeze packet of disc brake lube (slyglide)
Coat hanger, cut into an "s" shape
A caliper piston tool, to push back the caliper piston.
Torque wrench
Wire brush (Lowes sells a three pack, of different harshness. Looks like toothbrushes. A silver, hardest; a gold; and a black nylon, softest...)
Did I forget anything?
 
Turn wheel in direction your working, left side, turn left...
Jack car, two jack stands underneath, remove wheel
Loosen bolts using 6 point socket, breaker and cheater.
Apply steady and slowly increasing pressure to loosen bolts.
Remove rest of way with ratchet.
Hang caliper on coil spring using coat hanger

Remove next two bolts. Remove rotor, and pads.
Note where chirp tab is, remove pads, clean pad holders with wire brush
New pads, new rotors install...
Use SlyGlide on back of pads.
Loosen brake fluid container top on car, wrap rag around container.
Push brake caliper piston back using piston tool.
Put caliper on pads, tighten and torque bolts.
Put antiseize on smooth parts of caliper pins
Tighten and torque.

Replace wheel, brake fluid cap. Tap brakes gently several times to seat pads.

Did I forget anything?
 
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For a Honda in normal street duty?

OEM pads and rotors if the rotors are needed.

Simple as that.

I agree if the rotors aren't shagged just do the pads.
 
Thanks for the responses everyone, I'm getting a better picture on what to do.

I'm getting mixed messages about the rotors though. Should I leave them, machine them, or buy new? I'm also trying to decide between OEM and Akobono pads.

I'm a student so cost is a factor, but not at the price of safety =/

Thanks
 
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