My '03 Honda Element 174,000 miles is still running like a top on the original spark plugs. I bought a new set a while back but I'm worried I might have waited to long and will farkle the threads when I remove the original plugs from the aluminum head. I know I should have changed them sooner but I'm from the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" school of maintenance. Any thoughts, experiences or recommendations from the group appreciated.
Firts spark plug change on Honda
- Thread starter faltic
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Dont worry, they'll come out just fine...
To prevent damage to the threads on aluminum heads it is recommended to replace the spark plugs with the engine cold.
They'll come out just fine. Use the same plugs that came with the car, either NGK or Denso iridium. And don't put anti-seize on the new plugs, either.
Do it first thing in the morning, when the engine is cold.
Do it first thing in the morning, when the engine is cold.
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Originally Posted By: Jimkobb
I always use a shop vac to suck out any dirt that may be around the plug before a change out . I would squirt a little penetrating oil around the plug the night before the change.
+1 I did this with my sig Accord when changing the original plugs at 166,000 miles. They came out just fine and looked great for their age.
Like others said, make sure the engine's stone cold and use the spec'd NGK/Denso plugs only
I always use a shop vac to suck out any dirt that may be around the plug before a change out . I would squirt a little penetrating oil around the plug the night before the change.
+1 I did this with my sig Accord when changing the original plugs at 166,000 miles. They came out just fine and looked great for their age.
Like others said, make sure the engine's stone cold and use the spec'd NGK/Denso plugs only
Originally Posted By: Poohbah
Nice car.
Agreed! I've got 87k on mine, plan to do the plugs next year or so.
Nice car.
Agreed! I've got 87k on mine, plan to do the plugs next year or so.
I just bought some NGK laser iridiums that will go into my 2003 CRV.
Originally Posted By: bblackmon19
To prevent damage to the threads on aluminum heads it is recommended to replace the spark plugs with the engine cold.
I'd guessed that might be best
Thanks
To prevent damage to the threads on aluminum heads it is recommended to replace the spark plugs with the engine cold.
I'd guessed that might be best
Thanks
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
And don't put anti-seize on the new plugs, either.
Why no anti-seize?
And don't put anti-seize on the new plugs, either.
Why no anti-seize?
I recently did a set on a RSX (slightly different engine) at 190k - no problems.
Use the Denso Long-Life Iridium plugs and you'll be fine.
Use the Denso Long-Life Iridium plugs and you'll be fine.
Originally Posted By: faltic
Why no anti-seize?
Because the correct plugs for your car, and in fact *all* NGK spark plugs (and most if not all Denso plugs), come with a special coating on the threads that makes it unnecessary. In fact, your OE plugs were installed at the factory with no anti-seize applied, but they will come out easily as you will find out.
NGK is particularly adamant about not applying anti-seize, and they even released a bulletin regarding this.
NGK's warning against anti-seize
Why no anti-seize?
Because the correct plugs for your car, and in fact *all* NGK spark plugs (and most if not all Denso plugs), come with a special coating on the threads that makes it unnecessary. In fact, your OE plugs were installed at the factory with no anti-seize applied, but they will come out easily as you will find out.
NGK is particularly adamant about not applying anti-seize, and they even released a bulletin regarding this.
NGK's warning against anti-seize
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Originally Posted By: faltic
Why no anti-seize?
Because the correct plugs for your car, and in fact *all* NGK spark plugs (and most if not all Denso plugs), come with a special coating on the threads that makes it unnecessary. In fact, your OE plugs were installed at the factory with no anti-seize applied, but they will come out easily as you will find out.
NGK is particularly adamant about not applying anti-seize, and they even released a bulletin regarding this.
NGK's warning against anti-seize
good info thanks
Originally Posted By: faltic
Why no anti-seize?
Because the correct plugs for your car, and in fact *all* NGK spark plugs (and most if not all Denso plugs), come with a special coating on the threads that makes it unnecessary. In fact, your OE plugs were installed at the factory with no anti-seize applied, but they will come out easily as you will find out.
NGK is particularly adamant about not applying anti-seize, and they even released a bulletin regarding this.
NGK's warning against anti-seize
good info thanks
Interesting comments regarding AZ on plug threads. My 2008 Honda V6 (with NGK plugs)FSM states to use AZ on the threads and torque to 13 ft./lbs. The reason NGK is adamant about not using AZ is that this may result in over torqueing and stripping threads.I use the AZ but limit the torque to the required value.
Originally Posted By: willbur
Interesting comments regarding AZ on plug threads. My 2008 Honda V6 (with NGK plugs)FSM states to use AZ on the threads and torque to 13 ft./lbs. The reason NGK is adamant about not using AZ is that this may result in over torqueing and stripping threads.I use the AZ but limit the torque to the required value.
+1. I got into a major debate with some guy on another forum. Using AS on plugs is an excellent practice providing you do not over torque. NGK's warning is to protect their butts from hackers who use too much muscle. The picture on the box clearly shows degrees of rotation required. Some people just can not believe it is enough. Sort of like people who refuse to hand-tighten oil filters. They crank them down tight with a wrench and wonder why they can't get them off.
Interesting comments regarding AZ on plug threads. My 2008 Honda V6 (with NGK plugs)FSM states to use AZ on the threads and torque to 13 ft./lbs. The reason NGK is adamant about not using AZ is that this may result in over torqueing and stripping threads.I use the AZ but limit the torque to the required value.
+1. I got into a major debate with some guy on another forum. Using AS on plugs is an excellent practice providing you do not over torque. NGK's warning is to protect their butts from hackers who use too much muscle. The picture on the box clearly shows degrees of rotation required. Some people just can not believe it is enough. Sort of like people who refuse to hand-tighten oil filters. They crank them down tight with a wrench and wonder why they can't get them off.
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Just follow the 3/4 iirc turn after hand tight instructions on the box and you will be fine anti-seize or not.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the 3/4 turn is for when installing new plugs with fresh crush gaskets. If I take them out to check gap or what not, I reinstall with fresh anti-seize and a (quality) torque wrench to 13 ft-lbs. Some will argue reducing torque a couple ft-lbs but I have never had an issue with 275K worth of plug changes on my Accord.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the 3/4 turn is for when installing new plugs with fresh crush gaskets. If I take them out to check gap or what not, I reinstall with fresh anti-seize and a (quality) torque wrench to 13 ft-lbs. Some will argue reducing torque a couple ft-lbs but I have never had an issue with 275K worth of plug changes on my Accord.
Originally Posted By: SOHCman
Just follow the 3/4 iirc turn after hand tight instructions on the box and you will be fine anti-seize or not.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the 3/4 turn is for when installing new plugs with fresh crush gaskets. If I take them out to check gap or what not, I reinstall with fresh anti-seize and a (quality) torque wrench to 13 ft-lbs. Some will argue reducing torque a couple ft-lbs but I have never had an issue with 275K worth of plug changes on my Accord.
At 277,000 the problems will start !!
Just follow the 3/4 iirc turn after hand tight instructions on the box and you will be fine anti-seize or not.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the 3/4 turn is for when installing new plugs with fresh crush gaskets. If I take them out to check gap or what not, I reinstall with fresh anti-seize and a (quality) torque wrench to 13 ft-lbs. Some will argue reducing torque a couple ft-lbs but I have never had an issue with 275K worth of plug changes on my Accord.
At 277,000 the problems will start !!
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