Aftermarket Brake Rotors

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Fitz98

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Mar 17, 2011
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Florida
98 Expedition, 5.4, 4x4
I have been fighing with Dealer front rotors warping for years now and I think they have been turned about as many times is allowed.
I don't think I want to use dealer rotors again.
Any recommendations for decent rotors?
 
I've always had good luck with AC Delco or Raybestos, their higher end lines.

Make sure to take a wire brush and some brake cleaner and clean the hubs really well prior to installing the new rotors. Usually warping is due to run-out, which is often due to rust on the hub. You can also measure the run-out once the new rotor is on but usually the rotors attach with a screw to the hub so they only go on one way, so IMO measuring the runout is kind of pointless in this situation. Just clean the hub really well and get well-machined rotors to start with and you should be fine.
 
You could be having incomplete transfer of friction material to the rotors.This can lead one to believe that the rotors are warped as it causes a pulsation in the pedal at speed.Its due to the friction material not getting hot enough long enough during break in to lay an even layer.Of course if they turned the rotors on a lathe,they should have physically seen a runout variation.
 
What part number rotors are you getting from the dealer? The Motorcraft rotors are not the same as the Ford Genuine rotors.
 
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Spend your money on pads, get good quality rotors but not the best.

NAPA for around $35 seemed OK to me.

Very few rotors actually warp, they are just no longer of uniform thickness.
 
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Personally I love the Autozone Duralast gold high carbon rotors. Sure they're made in China but they come with a 3 year warranty, are coated black, and are relatively cheap when purchased online with free shipping.
 
I had some Duralast rotors whose seats for the races were not only machined too deeply, so the tapered roller bearings were too close together, but too wide so the races spun in their seats.

I foolishly used the preinstalled races with new bearings and after 10K miles, the bearings were shot as the taper was different on Race and bearing will all the pressure on one side of the roller.

The actual friction surfaces were fine with no pulsing/warpage.

I found Brembo made rotors for my Vehicle for about 18$ more each than the Duralast rotors cost me. They came with SKF races preinstalled, and I used SKF bearings in them.

Those Duralast rotors might have saved my 36 dollars initially, but they cost me a whole lot more in the long run.

Its not so amazing how being cheap winds up being so much more expensive.
 
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
I had some Duralast rotors whose seats for the races were not only machined too deeply, so the tapered roller bearings were too close together, but too wide so the races spun in their seats.

I foolishly used the preinstalled races with new bearings and after 10K miles, the bearings were shot as the taper was different on Race and bearing will all the pressure on one side of the roller.

The actual friction surfaces were fine with no pulsing/warpage.

I found Brembo made rotors for my Vehicle for about 18$ more each than the Duralast rotors cost me. They came with SKF races preinstalled, and I used SKF bearings in them.

Those Duralast rotors might have saved my 36 dollars initially, but they cost me a whole lot more in the long run.

Its not so amazing how being cheap winds up being so much more expensive.


Rotor/hub combos maybe a different story than plain rotors.
 
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Pad choice is much more important. You can pair a quality set of Akebono pads with any parts store rotors and be fine.

I have had good luck with Advance auto rotors. If I was ordering online I'd get Centric Premium rotors with e coating.

On Rockauto you can get AC Delco professional durastops with e coating too pretty reasonable.
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
You could be having incomplete transfer of friction material to the rotors.This can lead one to believe that the rotors are warped as it causes a pulsation in the pedal at speed.Its due to the friction material not getting hot enough long enough during break in to lay an even layer.Of course if they turned the rotors on a lathe,they should have physically seen a runout variation.


Sure could be!

Make sure the hubs are wire brushed to get the rust off when putting new ones on.
This is mentioned in The Critic's thread.

I just put new CENTRIC'S with the E-coating on my '98 Saturn and they are highly regarded.
So are NAPA Ultra Premium with their < 0.002" runout.
 
I like the Fremax/VGX Platinum rotors. The only non-Chinese discs that aren't hideously expensive.

Search part number PR92300 on eBay
 
Originally Posted By: Fitz98
98 Expedition, 5.4, 4x4
I have been fighing with Dealer front rotors warping for years now and I think they have been turned about as many times is allowed.
I don't think I want to use dealer rotors again.
Any recommendations for decent rotors?

Rotors:
1. Brembo
2. EBC
3. Hawk

Pads:
1. EBC
2. Hawk
 
The invoice said FMC Rotors. I assume that means motorcraft?
Also at the same time was FMC pads.

Ran through a water puddle and after that rotors warped.
After one particular trailering stop (Electric brakes on trailer) warped again.I thought they were overheating, so I switched to ceramic pads. Lifetime pad from AA or Autozone, don't recall which one, but I think they were wearever golds.
Changed front hub on drivers side and changed caliper as well. Still continues to happen.
I think I will be best to look at doing a new rotor and pad change, a set that will compliment each other.
 
How about sloted vs. regular rotors?
With all the reading I have been provided here, it appears as if material interfacing and even transfer and heat distribution is critical to brake performance. Do the slots in rotors increase performance, or diminish it, considering that with a slotted rotor, there would be interruptions in the braking surface area, which in theory could lead to hot and cool spots on the rotor itself where there slots are.
 
Originally Posted By: Fitz98
How about sloted vs. regular rotors?
With all the reading I have been provided here, it appears as if material interfacing and even transfer and heat distribution is critical to brake performance. Do the slots in rotors increase performance, or diminish it, considering that with a slotted rotor, there would be interruptions in the braking surface area, which in theory could lead to hot and cool spots on the rotor itself where there slots are.


They diminish it, because of the hot and cool spots, and also stress concentration.

more info here
 
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