Lead Additive For Older Cars
- Thread starter hank55
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there's no such thing called home remedies, for you cannot (not able to, unless you are a real chemist or so) blend chemicals and able to come out with something (even by simply proving its effectiveness) that would work.
Your only best hope is to either (a) get low lead AV gas from local small aircraft hanger; or (b) get OTC lead substitute; or (c) get hardened valve seats done on your cylinder head.
Q.
Your only best hope is to either (a) get low lead AV gas from local small aircraft hanger; or (b) get OTC lead substitute; or (c) get hardened valve seats done on your cylinder head.
Q.
Pull the head and fix it right.
Personally I am using a highly concentrated additive that they no longer make, and I forgot the name right now. but it only takes one oz per 5 gal of gas. I have enough for a few more years as I don't put to many miles on the classic cars. I have read that some people say if you don't load the engines heavily, or put a lot of miles on, that it really isn't needed.
Does your Datsun have an aluminum head? If it does it already has the hardened steel seat inserts.
As an owner of a British car with a aggressive cam, I have spent a lot of time looking into Valve seat recession and lead in fuel.
To cut to the bottom line, you may not need an additive at all if you are only using the car on the street.
STP is the cheapest additive on the market, and might help.
But basically, use the car until you notice VSR, THEN get some hardened valve seats fitted.
But as previously stated, with an aluminium head, you most likely have hard valve seats already.
To cut to the bottom line, you may not need an additive at all if you are only using the car on the street.
STP is the cheapest additive on the market, and might help.
But basically, use the car until you notice VSR, THEN get some hardened valve seats fitted.
But as previously stated, with an aluminium head, you most likely have hard valve seats already.
None.
The 390 in the big Ford in my sig was assembled sometime in 1971 which I think was well before lead was eliminated. After 110+K miles it still runs pretty well; drove it across country without a problem 4 yeara ago.
Although I cannot guarantee the 289 in my Mustang was the original build, my machinist could not identify any particular valve seat issues when we took it apart for its rebuild in '09. The rocker arms were toast, bearings shot, etc., but I don't believe a lack of lead was an issue.
Kevin
The 390 in the big Ford in my sig was assembled sometime in 1971 which I think was well before lead was eliminated. After 110+K miles it still runs pretty well; drove it across country without a problem 4 yeara ago.
Although I cannot guarantee the 289 in my Mustang was the original build, my machinist could not identify any particular valve seat issues when we took it apart for its rebuild in '09. The rocker arms were toast, bearings shot, etc., but I don't believe a lack of lead was an issue.
Kevin
I had been using CD2 but couldn't find it the last time so I got Red Line
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/361202377453?item=361202377453&rmvSB=true
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/361202377453?item=361202377453&rmvSB=true
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