2015 Tacoma, 1,000 miles, Factory Fill

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Just got a new 2015 Toyota Tacoma Double-Cab V6 4WD. I always change factory fill fluids early. I thought it would be fun/interesting to perform UOAs on the factory fill, just for curiosity's sake. This sample is from the Engine. I was curious about:

1) Whether Toyota uses 5W-30 in the engine as factory fill, which is what is called for for this engine. *NO!* It looks like 0W or 5W-20 to me!

2) Whether it really is worth it to change out factory fill so early. After seeing this UOA, I think it is, but you be the judge. Keep in mind there is only 1,000 miles, and 3 months since the truck was built.

What do you think?

 
No, it did not sparkle in the drain pan. But, my perception was the oil seemed thinner than a 30 weight. Sure enough, it is a 20 weight! I didn't think I could perceive the difference between a 20 weight and a 30 weight oil..
 
High sodium and a little titanium looks like MS5K add pack. My bet is that was the factory fill. I don't recall seeing many UOAs where that one in 5w30 stayed in grade. The FF very well might have started off as a 30 and sheared down. What did you refill with?
 
Carbon12,

I refilled with Amsoil signature 0W-20. I don't think the factory fill would have sheared a full grade in only 1,000 miles. The first 1,000 miles, it was driven pretty gently, and there were no adverse conditions.
 
Surprising..no moly...In the old days I believe they used a much thinner oil as break in oil. I am talking 1950's.
 
Originally Posted By: hpb
Why did you use 0w20 if Toyota specifies 5w30?

+1 Amsoil even recommend 5w30 for this application your running risk of no warranty coverage at all.
 
All,

Sorry guys, I made a mistake (Typo). I refilled with Amsoil 5W-30, *NOT* 0W-20. Too many cars I am maintaining these days, and I got mixed up.

What was interesting is it came with 20 weight from the factory. But I definitely filled with 5W-30 and will use it as that is indeed the recommended weight.
 
0w20 will be fine even if you did. for pete sake everyone take a xanax. terrible UOA by the way, lots of wear on that engine, will crater anytime.
grin.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: CT8
It can't hurt to get the crud out.


That isn't what you posted the first time. Earlier you said that those "in the know" know to change it out early.

Which I think is a load of nonsense. Three of the cars in my sig I have owned since new (all except the BMW), and I let the factory fill run out until the scheduled maintenance interval. None consume abnormal amounts of oil today, how is that explained?

And what "crud" are we talking about?
 
Originally Posted By: BikeWhisperer
Engine is designed for 5w-30, why would you run a thinner oil?
The engine is not designed for 5w-30.
 
You will receive as many opinions about changing the oil early in a new engine as there will be replies to your post. I always sumpp the FF at 1K or so, then do another short OCI of about 3K or so and then continue with a normal OCI. It is what have done for 30+ years and it has worked for me. Could you leave the FF in until the first scheduled OC? Probably, but I want the wear metals out of the engine sooner than later, but hey, that is just me.
 
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
You will receive as many opinions about changing the oil early in a new engine as there will be replies to your post. I always sumpp the FF at 1K or so, then do another short OCI of about 3K or so and then continue with a normal OCI. It is what have done for 30+ years and it has worked for me. Could you leave the FF in until the first scheduled OC? Probably, but I want the wear metals out of the engine sooner than later, but hey, that is just me.


What damage do the suspended (dissolved) wear metals do?

The stuff that isn't trapped by the filter I mean.
 
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