Seeking advice/opinions on bypass filter

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Hi everyone. I'm new to the site and have been going over it researching bypass oil filters. This is a new subject for me, so I am looking for thoughts on a setup for my car.

I drive a 2014 Lexus CT 200h (same powertrain as a third generation Prius, and uses 0w20 oil) and drive around 7,000 miles a month as a courier. My OCI is 5,000 miles, to avoid carbon deposits forming sludge in the oil.

I found that Amsoil seems to be the most common manufacturer making a bypass system for passenger cars, at about $200 (BMK21) plus the filter (90 model @ $40). With one of those, I'm hoping to go to 20k or higher OCIs. This is mostly, if not entirely, for cost reduction reasons.

I also know I need to get regular UOAs to make sure everything is working as expected.

As an added note, I drive 75% highway, at 55 or 60 mph using cruise control. I also plan to keep the car for as long as it will run, for this type of work.

What do you guys think of this setup for what I am trying to do? Are there better solutions? Is there anything I am missing?

Also, does anyone recommend using a different full flow oil filter, engine air filter, or a specific oil? Currently using the extended life factory oil filter and factory air filter, along with Castrol GTX full synthetic.
 


If you are driving 7000 miles a month then a bypass filter will be excellent for you, you will save tons of money.

Use the EAO15 and BP-90 on their mount and that ahould run you many tens of thousands of miles OCI's.

Use their signature series oils, don't bother with Mobil 1, it is unproven in long oci bypass setups.
 
Originally Posted By: zpinch


If you are driving 7000 miles a month then a bypass filter will be excellent for you, you will save tons of money.

Use the EAO15 and BP-90 on their mount and that ahould run you many tens of thousands of miles OCI's.

Use their signature series oils, don't bother with Mobil 1, it is unproven in long oci bypass setups.



How do these filters allow for such long OCI's? Also, would they not cause a large amount of restriction?
 
Originally Posted By: zpinch


If you are driving 7000 miles a month then a bypass filter will be excellent for you, you will save tons of money.

Use the EAO15 and BP-90 on their mount and that ahould run you many tens of thousands of miles OCI's.

Use their signature series oils, don't bother with Mobil 1, it is unproven in long oci bypass setups.




So m1 EP is a guaranteed long drain oil yet it is some how unproven?
And what does it being used in a by-pass equipped have to do with anything if the oil is engineered for long drains?
Whether proven or not in a by-pass equipped system it is proven to be a long life lubricant so adding a by-Pass filter can only extend the lubricants useful life.
Op
Amsoil's by-pass system is great quality and we had a member here try to make his own and by the time he factored in all costs the complete system from Amsoil was cheaper and comes with everything you need.
As far as m1 being 'proven" in a by-pass equipped system you must see the absurdity in that comment.
And considering Amsoil costs double what m1 EP costs you can do the math on what's more cost effective.

If you haven't bought your by-pass system yet I suggest contacting Pablo from our site here. He has always been very fair with pricing with forum members and I'm sure he'd appreciate getting a shot at acquiring your business.
I'm not trashing Amsoil here. I like Amsoil and used them exclusively for almost a decade. I'm merely stating similar quality can be had for less money as far as lubricants are concerned.
 
I would install an oil cooler instead of a bypass filter.

If possible, use an oversized oil filter.

If you have a manual transmission,
chances are that a transmission cooler is installed in the radiator,
and is unused.
Just find a oil gallery port, or "T" off your existing oil pressure switch.

Automatic transmission, you will have to install an oil cooler .

With most full synthetics costing around $5.00
(when bought on sale or using "house" brands,
saving $25 by running an extended oil change at the risk of a $5,000 to $7,500 engine makes no sense...
 
Clevy, how does Amsoil SS cost twice as much as M1 EP? I should also clarify what i meant, Amsoil is a better suited oil for THEIR bypass setup. Higher TBN, alot more Calcium, and it would jusr be easier to order everything you need from one place/dealer... $9/qt for SS.
 
Mattwithcats, an oil cooler will do next to nothing to make the oil last longer. A bypass setp on it's own (dual remote) will drop the temps by 10F alot of the time, regardless, it's not an issue to start with.

Go find us an example of a failured engine caused by a bypass setup. It will only make for a more reliable powertrain.
 
My fault, I did not realize this was a hybrid vehicle (gas / electric),
and also equipped with a CVT...
Cartridge filter, no oversize possible..

Still, most hybrids are tough on oil, the engine runs at 80% power when on.
I would pay attention to the OLM, and change at no less than 25%
 
Questions:

- Why does the transmission matter here? Does the engine oil also cool the transmission?

- I am planning on going with the single remote bypass system, just the one bypass filter. I wasn't looking to relocate the full flow filter by using the dual remote system. Is there an advantage to using the dual remote system? Does Amsoil offer a better full flow filter than what I get from Toyota/Lexus?

- Should I use high mileage oil (such as Mobil 1 EP as suggested earlier) right away, or beyond a certain mileage landmark? I'm currently at 65,000+ miles.

Originally Posted By: mattwithcats
Still, most hybrids are tough on oil, the engine runs at 80% power when on.
I would pay attention to the OLM, and change at no less than 25%

Are you saying the engine is at 80% load when running in my car? Because that's definitely not the case if that's what you meant. I spend most of my time between 1k and 2k RPM.

Also, what is OLM? Reading these forums, I had to figure out for myself what OCI and UOA meant, but OLM is eluding me right now.

Originally Posted By: gregk24
How do these filters allow for such long OCI's? Also, would they not cause a large amount of restriction?


As I understand it, synthetic oil doesn't break down till the 18k to 21k mile range (according to my mechanic, who introduced me to bypass filtration). The only reason you don't go that long is because of contamination, especially carbon/sludge buildup, due to the poor filtration of the oil filter. (I am no expert on oils, please feel free to correct me if I am mistaken.)
 
Cartridge filter can not use the dual remote setup.
You will need a standalone bypass if you have a cartridge filter.

OilLifeMonitor is useless. You will need a UOA with TBN to determine change interval. OLM is not programmed for bypass filter or its additional oil capacity.

There is no GTX full synthetic around here. But, Castrol Syntec and Edge are synth. Any full synth 0w20 will work well. Amsoil, RoyalPurple, Redline, MPT... are some boutique blenders.

You will still need to change your full flow oil filter cartridge every 5k or 10k depending on filter, and check topoff oil as needed for consumption...

Since hybrids stop/restart often enough, besides the orifice metering jet in the bypass filter, I'd add in a 5 or 10psi checkvalve to prioritize oil flow to the engine until pressure builds up.

Besides Amsoil bypass, Frantz, Filtakleen, Jackmaster, Kleenoil...and numerous others sell bypass filters.
Some use toilet paper as a media, which is cost effective.
 
Since he drives ALOT of miles per month, the amsoil bypass will be the most cost effective setup if you factor in your time to change bypass elements, as toilet paper or Kleenoil use cartridges need replacing every 10k miles vs Amsoil's 50k miles.

I assure you, Amsoil SS 0w20 oil is your best bet for oil, it has the highest TBN(12.6) of any full synthetic oil on the market, with loads of Calcium to support very long drains.

The single bypass will do you fine, you will need to change your full flow every 10k miles. Relocating with a dual remote is the same work as a single bypass setup. A dual setup will give you 30k+ mile full flow filter changes, plus an extra qt larger total oil capacity, which is never a bad thing in a daily driver courier situation.
 
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Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Cartridge filter can not use the dual remote setup.
You will need a standalone bypass if you have a cartridge filter.

OilLifeMonitor is useless. You will need a UOA with TBN to determine change interval. OLM is not programmed for bypass filter or its additional oil capacity.

There is no GTX full synthetic around here. But, Castrol Syntec and Edge are synth. Any full synth 0w20 will work well. Amsoil, RoyalPurple, Redline, MPT... are some boutique blenders.

You will still need to change your full flow oil filter cartridge every 5k or 10k depending on filter, and check topoff oil as needed for consumption...

Since hybrids stop/restart often enough, besides the orifice metering jet in the bypass filter, I'd add in a 5 or 10psi checkvalve to prioritize oil flow to the engine until pressure builds up.

Besides Amsoil bypass, Frantz, Filtakleen, Jackmaster, Kleenoil...and numerous others sell bypass filters.
Some use toilet paper as a media, which is cost effective.


My car uses a spin on filter, so a dual bypass should be possible, but I feel is unnecessary.

I also don't have an OLM.

I think I'm just used to seeing Castrol GTX, but I know that I get full 0w20 synthetic in my car, and I believe it's Castrol brand.

I may switch to Amsoil FF filters just to keep them running as long as the oil. I'll keep an eye on oil level and run regular UOAs.

How often would you guys say I should get UOAs to make sure the bypass system is working properly and to see how long before I need to change the oil? Also, once I get that figured out, can I stop getting UOAs at some point?

Is there any benefit to self-claimed sludge-cleaning (Castrol GTX) or start-stop wear friendly oils (Castrol Magnatec)? Or should I just go for long OCI type oil? (Or should I just start a thread in the oil forum?)
 
Originally Posted By: zpinch
I assure you, Amsoil SS 0w20 oil is your best bet for oil, it has the highest TBN(12.6) of any full synthetic oil on the market, with loads of Calcium to support very long drains.


What does TBN (Total Base Number) mean?

Also, why the SS oil? Why not the XL or EP versions from Amsoil?

Originally Posted By: zpinch
The single bypass will do you fine, you will need to change your full flow every 10k miles. Relocating with a dual remote is the same work as a single bypass setup. A dual setup will give you 30k+ mile full flow filter changes, plus an extra qt larger total oil capacity, which is never a bad thing in a daily driver courier situation.


I didn't think about the extra oil, I see how that can be useful on long OCIs, since you have to top off oil in case any appreciable amount is lost/burned.

Also, would the Amsoil FF filter that would sit alongside a BP filter on a dual remote setup fit where my engine's FF filter normally goes?
 
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Have you looked at the filter? Post a picture of it.

Cartridge looks like this, usually in a reusable plastic or metal housing:
http://wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=57064

TBN... http://www.blackstone-labs.com/do-i-need-a-tbn.php
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

TBN retention is pretty good with the newer well-tuned engines, and the lower sulfur fuels we use now.

If the goal is longest change interval possible, you'd want the best oil possible. Amsoil SS is Amsoil's premium product. Most companies have their good/better/best/specialpurpose marketed/advertised oil. SS has higher TBN than OE or XL.

And, you will mount the dual-bypass wherever their is room, as seen in the earlier above photos. Take picture of the underhood area and post it so that members here can see how much real estate is available for a standalone bypass.

Toyota doesn't typically use an algorithmic OLM. But, they have a 5k or 10k service reminder which is usually when the oil/filter is changed.
 
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Have you looked at the filter? Post a picture of it.

Cartridge looks like this, usually in a reusable plastic or metal housing:
http://wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=57064

TBN... http://www.blackstone-labs.com/do-i-need-a-tbn.php
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

TBN retention is pretty good with the newer well-tuned engines, and the lower sulfur fuels we use now.

If the goal is longest change interval possible, you'd want the best oil possible. Amsoil SS is Amsoil's premium product. Most companies have their good/better/best/specialpurpose marketed/advertised oil. SS has higher TBN than OE or XL.

And, you will mount the dual-bypass wherever their is room, as seen in the earlier above photos. Take picture of the underhood area and post it so that members here can see how much real estate is available for a standalone bypass.

Toyota doesn't typically use an algorithmic OLM. But, they have a 5k or 10k service reminder which is usually when the oil/filter is changed.


Thanks a lot for the info on TBN, very informative.

I'm pretty sure my filter doesn't have a component that is removed from inside and replaced (cartridge), but I will double-check as I do not do my own oil changes.

So right now, it sounds like my best bet for the longest OCI possible is a dual remote bypass from Amsoil, using their top oil (SS) and their BP and FF filters, with regular UOAs to determine how far I can go.

Once again, thanks for all the help to everyone who contributed. Please keep the tips coming, this is very helpful info!

Once I get everything set up, I will post pictures (and UOAs if anyone's interested).

Now, how does one contact Pablo about purchasing all of this?
 
Also, to answer your question on UOA frequency... i will just tell you what i will be doing for my setup, i did an initial 5000km UOA, and then i will be doing a UOA every 30 - 40k km (not sure yet) or every 18 months, whichever comes first.

For you, i would do a UOA @15k, then every year thereafter. I bet you will not need to change your oil for a few years. It will last!
 
Extended OCIs with premium filtration can make very good fiscal sense, when managed properly.
You must take ALL things into account to get true cost views, including the amortized cost of the new filter system, additional elements, UOAs, etc.

When going long OCIs, then not only TBN but TAN will be important; they are predictors of when wear may start to increase. They are NOt an assurance that anything is "wrong", but they are a clue to start paying even closer attention to the lube and wear rates.

Good luck and welcome to the site.
 
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The KISS principle, keep it you know....
Has anyone noticed he's changing oil every 5,000 miles?

First thing to do is triple the OCI.
I would run some Amsoil SS of Mobil 1 EP for a good length of time and pay for a UOA to establish just how often the oil needs to be changed. The driving conditions described are ideal. A 30,000 mile OCI may be acceptable as is.

You can't logically move forward without knowing where you are now.
 
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