0w20/30 in 5w20/30 engine?

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Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Short answer is that any engine can be run on a 0W-XX as long as the top "XX" complies with that required with a 5W-XX.
A 0W may be made with a higher quality basestock blend relative to the 5W, as appears to be the case with M1.
It may not be, though, as appears to be the case with TGMO.
Both Amsoil and XOM market their 0W-XX oils as plug and play drop in replacements for applications for which a 5W-XX is recommended, and both warrant their products not to cause engien damage if used as directed, so I doubt that a 0W-XX would do any harm.
The question remains as to whether it would do any good at the temperatures most of us living quite a few degrees below the Arctic Circle see.
You also can't really rely upon an extrapolation of two data points to predict viscosity at temeratures much below the lower of those two data points with any precision at all.
The large error range makes such a comparison meaningless.
In sum, if you want to use a 0W-XX in a 5W-XX application, then go for it.
It should do no harm and might do some good.


+1
 
Originally Posted By: 02s4audi
Does anybody know about the Hyundai/Kia filters? There is a Kia dealer about 45 mins away from me and a Hyundai dealer about 15 mins away. Can I go to Hyundai and get a filter for the car? Also I was reading around online and found that I need a crush washer? Does it need to be replaced each time you change the filter?


Didn't you ask this on the other thread?
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OP:

re: Common major 0w-20.

Many here will say most common (read "fake") synthetics have much higher VM and ppd and are made with lower viscosity base stocks than the 5w?
Here's a problem.
VM ARE NOT OIL, or Lubricants AND ARE VARNISHERS AND SLUDGE producers - this is well proven (AND PROBLEMATIC IN HD service) in the industry - THIS YOUR COMPROMISE.
0W-XX ARE NOT NEEDED IN ANY FASHION ABOVE -20C; THE 5W20 WOULD BE A MORE STABLE, CLEANER RUNNING OIL. MOST Majors ARE INEXPENSIVE, COMPROMISED, FALSELY ADVERTISED SYNTHETICS SOLD IN North America - NOT REAL SYN. Their build is cost and performance compromised. Higher NOACK, Higher VII, lighter base stocks worsened HTHS (in stitu); they FAIL ILSAC TEOST deposit varnish deposit test - should I go on?
Focus on what the oil does HOT - you are covered at startup with a 5w. Startup wear is caused by combustion water byproduct not a reasonably specd oil grade.
 
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Originally Posted By: 02s4audi
No. I haven't tried anything other than QSUD and bulk conventional 5w30 for quick shop changes. The car has 68k on it so it's not under warranty anymore because we aren't the original owner. Ultimately I guess my new question is, what would be the best oil to run it it. Whether it's conventional or synthetic? Preferably a synthetic since it can go longer before changing (she's tends to not pay attention to when it needs changing)


+1

Exactly why I run 5W-20 and never 0W-anything. 0W is Marketing hype. Somebody show me incremental fuel mileage increase for slightly thinner base stock chocked with more VI Improver additives, please? Tenths of a mpg? For LESS lubrication (VI Improver is not a good lubricant & is subject to shear down during operation).
 
Just my 2 cents: I have a 2007 Camry and 2012 Civic which are daily work cars and occasional vacation vehicles. Both call for 0W-20 (the Camry also suggests 5W-20).

In Maryland (we run the temperature gamut throughout the year) I use Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 and Purolator PureOne filters in both cars and try to keep oil changes at about 5,000 miles.

After reading up on this topic far too much, I've come to the conclusion that dirty oil kills. With that oil/filter combination and OCI, if those engines ever go up it very likely will have nothing to do with the fact that I used XW-XX oil.
 
Did the OP ever verify the engine noises involved?? His other thread advised that the engine was so loud at start up that he couldn't believe that the manufacturer would have designed it this way and it quiets down when warm. That's a red flag to me and doesn't have much to do with 0w versus 5w oil. Cam phaser / VVT issue?? or is it really just a "tick"??
 
Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying.

I think there are probably several oils that might fit the bill and you might have to find one that works the best. I've only used PP and QSUD in my Hyundai which are both quiet and work well but there may be better options for a non-GDI Forte with 68K on it.

Having said that, I would use the OEM filters versus others independent of the old Hyundai TSB advising to use them. I think that TSB had more to do with buying one that has a bypass valve versus ONLY the OEM filter. The Hyundai/Kia filters are high quality ( IMO better than the Wix and Bosch equivalents I looked at ) and importantly are an exact fitment. The other aftermarket filters I've seen have a lip/gasket that can measure as much as an eighth of inch off from the OEM making them a pretty generic fitment independent of the quality of the filter. I'd rather use an exact fit with something that fits up into the lip and flush than something that rides lower because of a wide gasket for example. YMMV and that may not apply to the Forte.
 
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