My 2006 Accord has what looks to be a leaky A/C compressor. The local shop took a look months back and agreed and said just wait till it dies then it will need to be replaced. As of a month or two ago, when starting the car and turning the A/C on the left most vent is the most warm and the right most vent is the most cold. After driving and getting up to speed the system cools off. Its certainly not cold like it used to be though. So, since the system is starting to blow warm air at idle, does that mean the refrigerant is low? If so, would one of the A/C charging kits be safe IF I only added a small amount at a time? Anybody used these and have good luck and no issues? Thanks in advance!
A/C recharge can question...
- Thread starter gregk24
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If leakage really is the issue, a can will help, for a while. Trying to add "a little" can be problematic. Better to just follow the instructions and give it all it needs.
I wouldn't use A/C recharge in a can (typically comes with sealant within) no matter what, citing that any residual sealant flowing within your A/C system, when you bring the car in to have your compressor replaced, will damage the shop's refrigerant recovery system, causing downtime and $$ for the shop to repair.
At any event: don't use sealant at all. If you want to be double-sure RE: compressor leak is the culprit, go find UV dye and add that into the refrigerant in your systems and get a UV light to verify.
Q.
At any event: don't use sealant at all. If you want to be double-sure RE: compressor leak is the culprit, go find UV dye and add that into the refrigerant in your systems and get a UV light to verify.
Q.
Originally Posted By: HangFire
If leakage really is the issue, a can will help, for a while. Trying to add "a little" can be problematic. Better to just follow the instructions and give it all it needs.
Why would adding a little be problematic? If its already low then wouldn't adding a little be better than adding too much? Also, do I need just refrigerant or refrigerant plus oil?
If leakage really is the issue, a can will help, for a while. Trying to add "a little" can be problematic. Better to just follow the instructions and give it all it needs.
Why would adding a little be problematic? If its already low then wouldn't adding a little be better than adding too much? Also, do I need just refrigerant or refrigerant plus oil?
Manifold gauges and a service manual at the bare minimum. And even then, you're still better off fixing the leak first.
Originally Posted By: Quest
I wouldn't use A/C recharge in a can (typically comes with sealant within) no matter what, citing that any residual sealant flowing within your A/C system, when you bring the car in to have your compressor replaced, will damage the shop's refrigerant recovery system, causing downtime and $$ for the shop to repair.
At any event: don't use sealant at all. If you want to be double-sure RE: compressor leak is the culprit, go find UV dye and add that into the refrigerant in your systems and get a UV light to verify.
Q.
Well there is oil all over the underside of the compressor, and the air is starting to blow warm until I start driving, and its cycling on and off more than it used too.
I wouldn't use A/C recharge in a can (typically comes with sealant within) no matter what, citing that any residual sealant flowing within your A/C system, when you bring the car in to have your compressor replaced, will damage the shop's refrigerant recovery system, causing downtime and $$ for the shop to repair.
At any event: don't use sealant at all. If you want to be double-sure RE: compressor leak is the culprit, go find UV dye and add that into the refrigerant in your systems and get a UV light to verify.
Q.
Well there is oil all over the underside of the compressor, and the air is starting to blow warm until I start driving, and its cycling on and off more than it used too.
Blowing warm on one side and cold on the other is a classic symptom of low refrigerant. Go get a can of refrigerant and the hose/gauge and put enough in to bring it up to specs. Follow the instructions and bring it up to proper pressure. If it's a slow leak this may last all year.
you've lost most of the vacuum, along with the refrigerant already (based on your description).
No use adding A/C in a can now. Might as well save the $$$ and get the compressor replaced ASAP.
the A/C shop will deep vacuum your system (to check for leaks) and then properly add (weighed) refrigerant back into the system afterwards, sans sealant.
remember: sealant is a big no-no to shops.
Q.
No use adding A/C in a can now. Might as well save the $$$ and get the compressor replaced ASAP.
the A/C shop will deep vacuum your system (to check for leaks) and then properly add (weighed) refrigerant back into the system afterwards, sans sealant.
remember: sealant is a big no-no to shops.
Q.
I just resurrected the air conditioning on the Traverse using a couple of those, since apparently it has a very slow leak. I've heard the gauges attached to them sometimes have questionable accuracy, so watch out. It's easy to overcharge
Tip: The can I used didn't mention this, but putting the can in hot water helps get the contents out, since they cool off as they discharge.
Tip: The can I used didn't mention this, but putting the can in hot water helps get the contents out, since they cool off as they discharge.
If it were my car, I would just replace the compressor, vacuum the system, and recharge. My personal experience is that finding the leak seems to be the hardest part. Replacing the compressor itself is usually easy enough for any DIY, just make sure you have the proper oil in it (may come with any new compressor). Just make sure any new compressor you buy is new and not rebuilt.
Sounds like the below ( linky here ) :
What does it mean when the low-side is high, and the high-side is low?
a weak ac compressor shows as insuficient change from side to side
The compressor lowers the low-side pressure and raises the high-side to remove heat from the vehicle. A damaged compressor will not accomplish as much change in the two sides. When this occurs, cooling will diminish, especially at idle. Raising the engine speed may bring the pressures closer to that needed. Compressors in a clean and lubricated environment do not wear out. If a compressor is bad, the root cause needs to be found or the problem will soon recur. Common causes include an over-pressure system, as described above.
What does it mean when the low-side is high, and the high-side is low?
a weak ac compressor shows as insuficient change from side to side
The compressor lowers the low-side pressure and raises the high-side to remove heat from the vehicle. A damaged compressor will not accomplish as much change in the two sides. When this occurs, cooling will diminish, especially at idle. Raising the engine speed may bring the pressures closer to that needed. Compressors in a clean and lubricated environment do not wear out. If a compressor is bad, the root cause needs to be found or the problem will soon recur. Common causes include an over-pressure system, as described above.
I put a can in my Pontiac every year or two. I've been doing that for the last 12 years. Walmart sells a small can with sealant, that's what I'd put in to start. Or buy it at AutoZone and get them to help you. No big deal. Replacing the compressor should be a last resort.
I'm also in the minority here that will say there's no harm in adding a little refrigerant to top up your car's AC system. Go slow and only add enough that the compressor doesn't cycle too often (if indeed your compressor is designed to cycle) and that the dash vents have nice cold air. My '95 Volvo always took about two small top-ups, once in the spring and once in early autumn. That ensured the AC blew nice and cold all summer long and the defroster worked in the late autumn and early spring.
Try not to use one that contains a sealant, just plain R134a only. One can could last you several years - I have one that's going on 6 years in my toolbox that will need to give my Golf a slight top up shortly.
Also a good time to replace your cabin filter and make sure you don't have a stuck blend door that's accidentally putting heat in the AC.
Try not to use one that contains a sealant, just plain R134a only. One can could last you several years - I have one that's going on 6 years in my toolbox that will need to give my Golf a slight top up shortly.
Also a good time to replace your cabin filter and make sure you don't have a stuck blend door that's accidentally putting heat in the AC.
Originally Posted By: bigt61
I put a can in my Pontiac every year or two. I've been doing that for the last 12 years. Walmart sells a small can with sealant, that's what I'd put in to start. Or buy it at AutoZone and get them to help you. No big deal. Replacing the compressor should be a last resort.
Adding a can that contains sealant is NOT a good idea if you ever expect to bring it to a shop to have it worked on.
Best is to bring it to a shop have them find the leak and fix it. Also replace any nearby o-rings while they are at it. The system needs to be evacuated before you work on it. Few DIY people have the machine to do that.
You can add a can and see if it helps. But I would not go onto 2 or 3 cans without a set of manifold gauges.
R134a is added by weight. They evacuate the system, pull a vacuum for 30 minutes to check for leaks and fill with the proper weight of R134a as specified on the sticker under the hood.
I put a can in my Pontiac every year or two. I've been doing that for the last 12 years. Walmart sells a small can with sealant, that's what I'd put in to start. Or buy it at AutoZone and get them to help you. No big deal. Replacing the compressor should be a last resort.
Adding a can that contains sealant is NOT a good idea if you ever expect to bring it to a shop to have it worked on.
Best is to bring it to a shop have them find the leak and fix it. Also replace any nearby o-rings while they are at it. The system needs to be evacuated before you work on it. Few DIY people have the machine to do that.
You can add a can and see if it helps. But I would not go onto 2 or 3 cans without a set of manifold gauges.
R134a is added by weight. They evacuate the system, pull a vacuum for 30 minutes to check for leaks and fill with the proper weight of R134a as specified on the sticker under the hood.
Nick1994
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You'll be fine with adding a can of refrigerent. My grandmother's Trailblazer had a leaky valve and my mechanic buddy replaced it (slow leak). He topped it off with cans of R-134a and it blows ice cold now, cools off much faster. This was last week he did it.
I had a slow leak on my '96 Chevy truck that before summer it just needed a top off, I did that for 3 years before I sold it and it worked great, a $10 can of R134a is a lot cheaper than a compressor.
I had a slow leak on my '96 Chevy truck that before summer it just needed a top off, I did that for 3 years before I sold it and it worked great, a $10 can of R134a is a lot cheaper than a compressor.
Alright ladies and gents, I went to WM and picked up a can of refrigerant and a gauge. I put the A/C on full blast per the instructions and checked the reading, it was pretty low. I then attached the can to the gauge and pumped away. I "primed" it first, but only air was coming out..is this normal? I didn't see any refrigerant coming out, I figured it would be liquid. Anyway, I only charged it enough to not even bring it up the the "green" section on the gauge, but its blowing ICE cold again! I am happy about that! The compressor would come on and stay on for 14 seconds, then turn off for 4 seconds only to come on again for another 14-15 seconds. Is that normal? Again, its blowing ice cold...I forgot how cold A/C is supposed to be! Anything I should look out for that would spell a problem?
Sounds like you are still a little low. If that's really the case (emphasis on really) then you probably have a bigger leak than I thought and your A/C will not work this good for long.
Having said that what you did is a pretty good test just to see that your only problem is low refrigerant caused by a leak.
Having said that what you did is a pretty good test just to see that your only problem is low refrigerant caused by a leak.
If the compressor comes on at all there is still a positive pressure in the system and its not completely empty..if it was completely empty the low side pressure switch would not let it come on..thats what its designed to do....go get a couple cans of freon and one of them blue hoses with the gauge on it and pump the system up till the low side line is nice and cold and the compressor quits cycling constantly.....its very basic and easy to do...drive it till you can or want to get it fixed...this will work as long as the compressor itself is still in good shape and all you have is a leak.....dont let these guys scare ya......
Could use a little more but your close...drive it..least its not overcharged
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