Water pump lubricant

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Anyone ever use this stuff? Does it do any good? If so, what for? Pump lubricant or for corrosion in the radiator?
 
you own a ford model t? or an old MG midget?

If not, don't use these so-called "water pump" lubricant. Nothing inside a modern (made since the late 60s and onwards) water pump assembly need water-emulsified oil in coolant for additional lubricating properties, esp. with those bearings and seals.

Q.
 
Also: on the subject of corrosion inhibition, bet you don't know that modern glycol-based coolant for cars manufactured during the past decade or so, comes with some of the best, most long-lasting coolant ever made in the auto industry?!

P-OAT commonly used in most major Japanese automobiles, their coolant (straight from the assembly plant) is good for 10yrs, and all subsequent renewal is good for 3~5yrs!

I bet ya your car only needs 2 to 3 coolant changes before it goes to the junkyard( for one reason or another), and the cooling system still stay nice and clean.

Lastly: who wants to shortchange themselves with those over-the-shelf, old carrap OTC additves such as water pump lubricants when modern day long-life coolant is so good?
 
I only ask as I was looking in my garage last weekend and I have a bottle of it on the shelf. Probably more than 15 years old. Not sure if it has any use anymore.
 
short summary: modern cooling systems and coolant formulation, there's no need (no place) for these so-called water pump lubricant, period.

Q.

BTW: I'd mix them up with water and use it as metal-cutting lubricant (when drilling metals).
 
This stuff started when water pumps were packed with rope.They haven't been for what...60+ years now?
 
It's for people who run 100% distilled in their cooling system. Think race/track cars.

For a street car in the US? Stick with 50%/50% Coolant/Distilled Water.
 
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
It's for people who run 100% distilled in their cooling system. Think race/track cars.

For a street car in the US? Stick with 50%/50% Coolant/Distilled Water.


Not correct. The water pumps have sealed bearings. The coolant does not lubricate them.
 
To philipp 10: Give it to an owner of an old tractor.
An older rural garage will have "someone who knows someone".
Just don't address a kid with earphones and tattoos 'cause he'll just say, "Huh?".
Speak to an older person. Kira
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Not correct. The water pumps have sealed bearings. The coolant does not lubricate them.


That's what people keep telling me, but in the old days, if you let your coolant mixture get too weak, your water pump would be toast in no time.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
That could still happen today, with too weak of a mixture, I suppose, if corrosion gets out of hand.


unless you let the coolant concentration runs so weak that the acid buffer becomes ineffective in dealing with the non-ferrous metals in the engine innards to turn acidic, the likeliness of this is still relatively now, IMO.

afterall: unless you are a DIY (or some indy shops with old silicate green or prestone all-in-one) and is servicing an otherwise factory-filled automobile that is less than 10 yrs old (and contaminated/diluted the coolant), otherwise: I don't see the coolant can go weak over time while still within servicable timeframe. Of course, one might argue that the buffers, additives that prohibits corrosion will deplete over time, but fact is, (1)it takes such a long time for that to happen; and (2)most P-OAT or similar sold in pre-diluted gallon jugs (concentration is assured), so unless someone did a flush, drain and then fill and mess up with the concentration of the coolant, otherwise, my take is that it's still not very likely.

Lastly: have you notice that ABS plastic on these hybrid plastic+metal radiator lasts considerably longer while running these OAT-based coolant? I do!

Q.
 
Seems to work okay in the Model A.

And I get to stock another chemical on the shelves.
smile.gif


ModelARadiator.jpg
 
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