First Oil Change for a 2015 Toyota Tacoma

[Arctic388]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
What does the OM say?

This should be the same engine as my moms TRD 4runner and it says to use 0w20, but a 5w20 can be used as a substitute. The OM for that particular vehicle says nothing about a 5w30. It needs the synthetic at least for warranty purposes. Factory recommended intervals should be 10k, but leave it to the dealer to push 5k intervals.

I take back what i originally said in this thread as I had no idea what I was talking about.

Enjoy the truck. Toyotas are great vehicles.


read through the OM last eve and it says 5w30 and 5K OCI for mine. it made no mention of Regular or Syn.

 

[fredfactory]

Originally Posted By: btanchors
...... All oil goes through the filter before it goes into the engine (unless the filter goes into bypass). So in theory, any particles present in a UOA should be so small they wouldn't affect the wear on the engine............


Since some oil filters, and especially Toyota OE oil filters, are NOT good at stopping particles smaller than 20 microns and less, and oil film thickness inside your engine ranges from zero to 50 microns depending on which engine parts and which part of the Stribeck curve you happen to be surfing on at that moment, you can see its good to get all that sub-20-micron stuff flushed out at 1,000 miles. The mode of additional wear is a cascading wear.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Yet there are no facts anywhere to prove that an engine lasts any longer with an early change. None.

I've done it both ways across 4 decades with fleet trucks and our longest lived engine was only changed per the OLM. First fill went almost 5k miles.

Just not as important on new vehicles, some shade tree rebuilds could sure use one...

 

[Moondawg]

Between myself and my wife we have had several new Toyotas. She has 4Runners and I have always had Tacoma Prerunners. Toyota to the best of my knowledge does not put a breakin oil in new vehicles. In an excess of caution I have always did an oil/filter change at 500 miles and put in my preferred oil, that being M1 Syn. Both of our current vehicles have well over 100K miles and their engines sound and act healthy. After the warranty expired they have been on a 10K oci.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: Kuato
I'm a big fan of early oil changes also. On my new engines I like 500, 2000 and 5000 miles before going manufacturer's intervals under warranty. To me, this insures that impurities from assembly (insert discussion about engines not needing these removed, they help with break in, etc etc) are washed out and into the filter.


Originally Posted By: skyactiv
I'm thinking it's a waste of money to do an early oil and filter change.
Read this link if you dare: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


While I agree with Motoman's break in recommendations, IMO making sure the rings seal doesn't affect the oil and any junk that may be flowing around in there -- the two issues are separate.



The filter catches it.

Originally Posted By: fredfactory
Originally Posted By: btanchors
...... All oil goes through the filter before it goes into the engine (unless the filter goes into bypass). So in theory, any particles present in a UOA should be so small they wouldn't affect the wear on the engine............


Since some oil filters, and especially Toyota OE oil filters, are NOT good at stopping particles smaller than 20 microns and less, and oil film thickness inside your engine ranges from zero to 50 microns depending on which engine parts and which part of the Stribeck curve you happen to be surfing on at that moment, you can see its good to get all that sub-20-micron stuff flushed out at 1,000 miles. The mode of additional wear is a cascading wear.


Well Fred. Considering there will be quite a bit of particulate being shed the oil filter is going to get saturated quickly and thereby filling all of them filtration veins up to the point they will be trapping particulate far finer than the 20 microns you mentioned.
In fact I feel that the filter is going to become extremely efficient very quickly and changing it at 1000 miles is a BAD idea simply because a new filter won't be loaded and therefore less effective of trapping all that particulate you mention.
So in reality sure you wash out everything the engine has shed at 1000 miles but at that point anything else the engines going to shed will be much smaller and a new filter may not be effective at catching it until the media loads and the filter increase in efficiency.

Op

If you want to change the oil early go ahead but leave the filter. It will be loaded and the efficiency will be much greater than a new one which means it'll trap much smaller particulate than a new one.
I run tough guards 20000 miles on all my known clean engines. Every one drives just fine when the body rots off.
Oil filters efficiency increases as the media traps particulate so the longer you leave it the better it performs until it's completely plugged and running in by-pass
Only once have I ever seen a filter so loaded that the by-pass was open when the engine was hot. It was my first car. A cutlass with a 305. I used that engine restore garbage(do not use unless engine is on last legs already) and it completely plugged the filter and eventually killed the engine.