marvel oil vs seafoam in oil

[southernjeeper]

Never bothered with the science of Lucas oil stabilizer. But sticking with the subject of MMO. I DID USE 7ounces right before an oil change in the Cherokee this past week. Oil was very black which was good and the oil filter actually felt heavier, but I dunno.

Sorry for bringing up anything about Lucas' product. I didn't need to go off topic and I only use "it" in the jeep not any other vehicle.

I do use QUALITY OIL. Why the heck I have been doing great with max life otherwise? I just looked on valvolines website they don't offer anything in max life thicker than 10w40.

I am not going to comment anymore to this thread about it.

Overkill -- I guess we have.

I don't really care to use thicker oil because like I said it has made my jeep run fine all these years.

MMO and seafoam added right before an oil change at their recommended dose is great to me.

Done.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: southernjeeper
Never bothered with the science of Lucas oil stabilizer.

I don't really care to use thicker oil because like I said it has made my jeep run fine all these years.
Sorry for being me then.



Actually your being obtuse.

You've been informed that Lucas only dilutes the oils additive package because it's non additized but it thickens as well n
This stuff will lead to sludge and deposits because by its very design doesn't combat these issues.
So let's put your regimen in a nutshell.
You buy oil and pour it in. You then spend extra on Lucas and pour it in which weakens the oil additive package and thickens the oil.
A sensible person sees this and concludes you are paying extra just to weaken the original oil.
But as you've said it "works" for 150000 miles which is absolutely meaningless.
Rather than pay extra to weaken your oil with Lucas why not just use a thicker oil,because in a nutshell you are just thickening it anyway,and by using a thicker oil you don't weaken the original oil and you spend less.
Around here we pick apart everything. Especially stuff that makes absolutely no sense,like your case.
Just because you think this mix is working for you how do you know exactly.

 

[Clevy]

I was very pleased with the vid posted recently with seafoam. Visible evidence that it does wirk when used as directed and isn't "a fool and his money" type situation.
Having used both MMO and Seafoam countless times I can say they each work well when used as directed.

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
I was very pleased with the vid posted recently with seafoam. Visible evidence that it does wirk when used as directed and isn't "a fool and his money" type situation.
Having used both MMO and Seafoam countless times I can say they each work well when used as directed.


I didn't see your results from those pictures I drew the opposite conclusion.

What would you recommend for my Deere 212 with the kohler 301aqs

MMO? seafoam?

PS it still runs fine.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: southernjeeper
As for using thicker oil than the 10w30 I go with what works for me for the last 150,000miles so I really don't care what Lucas haters say about the stuff.


It's not about being a "hater", it's about having some general knowledge of what the product IS and being curious as to why somebody, who finds out that it is just basically increasing the viscosity of the oil, wouldn't just choose the less expensive route (and the benefit of not diluting the additive package) and use a heavier oil in the first place

I've used (many moons ago) Lucas PS stop leak as well as their transmission goo when I had a rear seal go out on my T5 and wanted to limp it by and needed something that would stay in the case. With the PS system, the seal on the steering box eventually went and I swapped out the box. It never stopped the leak either. Obviously that seal was too far gone for "conditioning".

The first time I saw the Lucas stuff "revealed" was on this site many, MANY moons ago. There were pictures (which I'm sure exist somewhere) of their differential product vs a quality gear lube. It foamed like crazy and caused massive amounts of aeration. Further discussion indicated that their Oil Stabilizer was essentially just heavy bright stock and a tackifier to make it "cling" like chainsaw bar oil (for the gear "test rigs" at your local parts store).

At that point I wrote off all of their products.

And southernjeeper, you and I talked about this before in another thread:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2392856/Re:_They_Call_it_"Luc#Post2392856

And this post lists its contents via a VOA:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2865873/Re:_another_lucas_thread....#Post2865873

Originally Posted By: electrolover

Here is the skinny on LOS
Unless listed all are 'Zero'
Lucas Virgin
TBN - 0.1
Visc - 615.3
FP - 435
Calcium - 3
Magnesium - 1
Phosphorus - 4
Zinc - 2


It has no anti-wear additives. It is just insanely heavy

Also, I found Bob's old test in case you were interested (electrolover linked it in that other thread but the images were dead):
http://web.archive.org/web/20080220235528/http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm
That "test" had about as much science to it as does the typical oil additive.

 

[OVERKILL]

Meh, it demonstrated aeration in use, which was not the case with gear lube by itself.

Was it particularly scientific? No. But I found it interesting at the time when I first saw it, as did many others on here.

Also, it demonstrated the other side of the "gear test" that Lucas uses to show the benefits of the product, something that is also not very scientific but is designed to show a "benefit" of their stabilizer. It is a tad comical that if you ramp up the speed of their own marketing machine that instead of getting the desired result you get the polar opposite

And I think that was Bob's point.

The real value is in the VOA though. Showing it has no AW additives and is nothing but insanely heavy. IMHO, that seals the deal on the product.

 

[jk_636]

Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I was very pleased with the vid posted recently with seafoam. Visible evidence that it does wirk when used as directed and isn't "a fool and his money" type situation.
Having used both MMO and Seafoam countless times I can say they each work well when used as directed.


I didn't see your results from those pictures I drew the opposite conclusion.

What would you recommend for my Deere 212 with the kohler 301aqs

MMO? seafoam?

PS it still runs fine.


Yikes! I would say to use both. Seafoam first, then marvel from then on. It will take time to clean that much buildup.

 

[southernjeeper]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: southernjeeper
Never bothered with the science of Lucas oil stabilizer.

I don't really care to use thicker oil because like I said it has made my jeep run fine all these years.
Sorry for being me then.



Actually your being obtuse.

You've been informed that Lucas only dilutes the oils additive package because it's non additized but it thickens as well n
This stuff will lead to sludge and deposits because by its very design doesn't combat these issues.
So let's put your regimen in a nutshell.
You buy oil and pour it in. You then spend extra on Lucas and pour it in which weakens the oil additive package and thickens the oil.
A sensible person sees this and concludes you are paying extra just to weaken the original oil.
But as you've said it "works" for 150000 miles which is absolutely meaningless.
Rather than pay extra to weaken your oil with Lucas why not just use a thicker oil,because in a nutshell you are just thickening it anyway,and by using a thicker oil you don't weaken the original oil and you spend less.
Around here we pick apart everything. Especially stuff that makes absolutely no sense,like your case.
Just because you think this mix is working for you how do you know exactly.


They don't make maxlife synthetic blend in a heavier oil. If needed do I need to switch to the yellow bottle of penzoil that seems great for the clatter of the 4.0s? Because I am okay to that option. I'll try it without the Lucas obviously.

I do value the experience of some of you on here. I just spend $16 for the five qt jug from Walmart and the 8-11dollar bottle on the Lucas and then $6, I think, for the oversized 51515 wix filter. I have been using this combination for the greater part of this XJ's lifespan so far.

If you tell me what would be a better brand and weight of oil I will consider draining and filling with 6qts of a good quality oil over the synthetic blend of 10w30 I use currently. Easy start up and smooth sounding engine without clatter is my preference. And obviously acceleration and longevity.

Now humor me with your recommendation?
I'll try it in 1,000miles shorter than my typical 3k to 4k change.

Okay?
Btw my jeep after using the 7ozs of MMO 50 miles before this last oil change now has made the engine have more clatter from rockers and/or valves??? Before adding marvel it didn't do that. Take that in consideration on oil recommendation in my case, please? Liquid moly?

 

[southernjeeper]

Sorry I do see on valvoline's website they offer a 20w50 maxlife, but I just thought that would be harder for the jeep to start. Though I would only use it in the hot humid months until November, right? Then I would switch back to the 10w30.

So even though this is kinda off topic from seafoam and MMO, sorry to hijack topics with a couple of you.

 

[OVERKILL]

You could try Rotella or Delvac in a 15w-40 or 5w-40.

 

[turtlevette]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL

The real value is in the VOA though. Showing it has no AW additives and is nothing but insanely heavy. IMHO, that seals the deal on the product.


It has no additives so it won't react with additives in the current fill, be it gear oil or engine oil

Aeration is not necessarily a problem. Remember the sump is several inches deep. If the top layer of an inch or so is aerated, how is that going to cause a problem. The climbing action can be helpful in gear boxes and diffs to get more oil in the mesh area for a higher film thickness and better cooling.

Like it or not. Every parts store, CVS, Rite Aid, grocery stores etc etc etc carry this stuff. There is a time and place for thickening up a current fill.

 

[turtlevette]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
. It is a tad comical that if you ramp up the speed of their own marketing machine that instead of getting the desired result you get the polar opposite

And I think that was Bob's point.


wait. do you have a video? You mean the oil slings off the gears?

 

[Trajan]

Originally Posted By: turtlevette


Like it or not. Every parts store, CVS, Rite Aid, grocery stores etc etc etc carry this stuff. There is a time and place for thickening up a current fill.


Which is a tribute to the marketing machine. Nothing more.

Never seen it at any CVS or grocery store I use. I'll have to take a look.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
. It is a tad comical that if you ramp up the speed of their own marketing machine that instead of getting the desired result you get the polar opposite

And I think that was Bob's point.


wait. do you have a video? You mean the oil slings off the gears?



It does this:

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: turtlevette


It has no additives so it won't react with additives in the current fill, be it gear oil or engine oil


OK. But then it reduces the effectiveness and concentration of the additive package of what you are adding it to.

Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Aeration is not necessarily a problem. Remember the sump is several inches deep. If the top layer of an inch or so is aerated, how is that going to cause a problem. The climbing action can be helpful in gear boxes and diffs to get more oil in the mesh area for a higher film thickness and better cooling.


But it CAN be a problem. That's why oils have antifoam agents added to them. Lucas apparently doesn't. And the possible benefit of "more oil in the mesh area" is negated if that oil is full of air.

Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Like it or not. Every parts store, CVS, Rite Aid, grocery stores etc etc etc carry this stuff. There is a time and place for thickening up a current fill.


I'm not sure what that proves other than the general population doesn't have two sweet clues about lubrication and that the Lucas marketing is effective

 

[KCJeep]

Originally Posted By: southernjeeper


If you tell me what would be a better brand and weight of oil I will consider draining and filling with 6qts of a good quality oil over the synthetic blend of 10w30 I use currently. Easy start up and smooth sounding engine without clatter is my preference. And obviously acceleration and longevity.



If that was your goal, you went the wrong direction IMO.

I suggest plain ol Pennzoil Yellow Bottle in 10w30, no Lucas, your current filter choice is fine unless you are getting start up clatter from the filter (I have not had good luck with start up on the Wix filters at start up on my Jeep). Try a Motorcraft or Napa Silver (also Wix made) but different ADBV set up which works much better for picky start up vehicles in my experience.

 

[DR1]

What is it that is in MMO,and seafoam that's not in good synthetic oil that doesn't clean the inside of an engine? Is it that regular oil changes just takes longer to clean than the MMO,and seafoam?

 

[KCJeep]

Originally Posted By: lawnguy
What is it that is in MMO,and seafoam that's not in good synthetic oil that doesn't clean the inside of an engine? Is it that regular oil changes just takes longer to clean than the MMO,and seafoam?


Keeping an engine clean with good oil maintenance is relatively easy. Cleaning a truly dirty one with oil alone is slow going at best. That's where some additives like MMO can come in.

Even cleaning an engine with MMO is slow going if it is truly grundgy, but I consider that a good (read safe) thing.

 

[Hollow]

The beater Oldsmobile started flashing a rather annoying low oil light at me, as the valve cover gaskets were bleeding everywhere.

Opened trunk, discovered no oil bottles. Sad face.
Noticed a quart bottle of MMO I had gotten for the lawn equipment and never taken out of the trunk. Happy face.
Poured it in, light went off. Olds hasn't blown up yet, after 1,000 miles.

Sidenote: replaced VCG. Front now bone dry, rear still leaking for some reason (likely just to spite me, which may be the purpose of the aforementioned Olds).

 

[MolaKule]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL


...I'm not sure what that proves other than the general population doesn't have two sweet clues about lubrication and that the Lucas marketing is effective...

I saw that goofy little Lucas machine at my local auto parts store the other day.

You can make a huge foam with that wheely-deally.

If you rotate it slowly it doesn't climb, just follows.

It must contain a tackifier or a some other polymer in it.

In my view, the Lucas goo lacks any foam inhibitor and contains only a "stickifier."

I am not impressed. I give a two gun salute: