Before you wised up here, ever do stupid stuff?

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Originally Posted By: Errtt
Did an OC once (years ago when I was a kid) then started the car. No oil pressure, ticking keep going, shut it off after ~ 15 seconds.
Forgot to put the drain plug in.


Did the same thing when I was a kid but it was the filter I forgot to put on. Everything was fine till I started the engine and pumped it all onto the garage floor.
 
Pretty much ran an engine dry if oil. Took it to a local gas station garage because the oil pressure light would flicker when making sharp turns and it was making a ticking noise. I was told the ticking was the oil pump because there wasn't enough oil for it to pull from the pan!
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And here I thought I was the only one who had sinned..
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Also, as a kid (5th grade or so), I changed the oil for our diesel mule and used QSGB. Didn't realize there was a difference between diesel and gas oil.

The old girl is about 14 years old and has about 950 miles on the OD. Had the oil been ran to the full 100 hrs, it might have caused issues.
 
I used to use the ole Fram Orange Can. But one time I double gasketed my 04 Mustang GT. I didn't even know that was a thing and it could happen! I did the oil change, filled it up, drove it around my subdivision(to get all the oil troughout the system and then parked it in my garage level) once and on my way back I see this trial of liquid.. it got thicker and thicker as I got closer to home. It led into my driveway. I was so clueless as to what just happened. I basically went and redid the oil change and when I took the filter off I saw there was a second gasket and oil everywhere around the filter(orange can..). That wasn't a fun clean up and purchase of a second 6qts of oil. I was using Mobil 1 though!
 
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I thought that synthetic oil was not real oil like conventional, just some gimmicky marketing trick that would eventually fade awaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay.
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Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Long before the days of cordless phones I was doing an oil change and my girlfriend called. I had to go inside to take the call, I came out added the 5 qts of oil to the car, but forgot to put the new filter on. Needless to say when I started then engine I had a mess on my hands.


I have found that leaving the drain bolt out instead allows the new oil you just bought to evacuate much faster leaving that nice 3 foot round puddle on your once spotless garage floor. Then you get to ask your friend or neighbor for a ride to the store for "some oil". So I prefer this method to leaving the filter off.
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Good point, my mess was more dynamic, almost explosive! I lost a good 2+ qts., shooting it all over the left side of the engine bay. My father was pizt! The good news was even back in the 70's I was stashing oil whenever I got a good deal on it, so there was no trip to the store involved.
 
My 86 Nova (Corolla) used to burn oil like crazy. I got tired of pouring 20w50 oil in it, so I resorted to leftover 75w90
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Not only did the car not like it, but drivers behind me REALLY hated me. The smell of burning gear oil is not something people get use to.

Only problem with the car was it cracked the oil pressure switch and stared leaking oil like crazy. Replaced it and topped up with more 20w50 and the car was fine again. That car could not be killed!
 
bashed a new crankseal in too far because i was only looking at the top.

let a indy shop take me for $1600 for a new timing belt and WP, never again, ill do my own now.
 
Can't say I have done anything too crazy (I got to run around a few shops when I was little) and kinda had a clue before I joined here..
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Though I will say I would have never thought to run oil in my Cavalier two years (it's a tad over 2 years now) before I got here! But that changes when she hits the road full time this week....
 
I still to 3-4k oil changes. One of those things where it's treated me EXTREMELY well over the years. Even had people comment on how good the motor runs on one with known issues. Can't say I'm willing to change though. Of it ain't broke don't fix it.

However since being here, I have paid more mind to viscosity, and found some information to support the thicker isn't always better mindset. I've also developed a better understanding of viscosity and seek out 0wxx oils when available.

I've also changed my mind about Pennzoil, as I used to think it was a waxy oil that liked to sludge.

Also learned a bit about chemistry and base stocks so I can pick and choose a synthetic to run in an older vehicle without fear of leaks
 
I used to be a religious 3000 mile changer. I thought synthetic oils (Mobil1, Pennzoil Plat.) were a complete marketing scam. Now I understand there is a use case for everything.

I also thought you couldn't switch back and fourth between synthetic and conventional. Not a problem!

Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
My 86 Nova (Corolla) used to burn oil like crazy. I got tired of pouring 20w50 oil in it, so I resorted to leftover 75w90
crazy2.gif


Not only did the car not like it, but drivers behind me REALLY hated me. The smell of burning gear oil is not something people get use to.

Only problem with the car was it cracked the oil pressure switch and stared leaking oil like crazy. Replaced it and topped up with more 20w50 and the car was fine again. That car could not be killed!


Mmm. Gear oil. I always jokingly suggest that on here ... never thought people would really try it!




Originally Posted By: dlundblad
And here I thought I was the only one who had sinned..
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Also, as a kid (5th grade or so), I changed the oil for our diesel mule and used QSGB. Didn't realize there was a difference between diesel and gas oil.

The old girl is about 14 years old and has about 950 miles on the OD. Had the oil been ran to the full 100 hrs, it might have caused issues.


I know someone who ran Mobil Super 5000 10w-40 in his Powerstroke truck. He posted it on facebook and there were like 10 of us that said for him to not do it. He still did it.
 
I believed that Pennzoil would sludge up engines and Fram cardboard end caps would disintegrate from hot oil for many years. Though I became a BITOG member just this year I have been lurking for over a decade and had figured out both were untrue many years ago.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Also, as a kid (5th grade or so), I changed the oil for our diesel mule and used QSGB. Didn't realize there was a difference between diesel and gas oil.


I know someone who ran Mobil Super 5000 10w-40 in his Powerstroke truck. He posted it on facebook and there were like 10 of us that said for him to not do it. He still did it.


Ask them how his PS injectors are doing...

I had a junior tech in a sister shop hand me a bottle of basic PCMO 10w30 syn when I went searching for some HDEO. He said you could pour it in anything because it was synthetic. I talked to the lead tech after that and they had to track down every diesel work order that kid touch in the past 6 months.

As for the gear oil in the crank-case... you should smell the oil of any used vehicle to see if they poured some 75wXXX into it as it is the red-neck repair of passing off a leaker/burner in the used market
 
Originally Posted By: BikeWhisperer
I believed that Pennzoil would sludge up engines and Fram cardboard end caps would disintegrate from hot oil for many years. ... had figured out both were untrue many years ago.
This ^^^^^

Adding ZDDP to Delo 15W-40 was probably overkill; trying to outsmart petroleum engineers with advanced degrees is a lousy way to spend any energy, time or money.
Kevin
 
Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
Originally Posted By: Miller88

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Also, as a kid (5th grade or so), I changed the oil for our diesel mule and used QSGB. Didn't realize there was a difference between diesel and gas oil.


I know someone who ran Mobil Super 5000 10w-40 in his Powerstroke truck. He posted it on facebook and there were like 10 of us that said for him to not do it. He still did it.


Ask them how his PS injectors are doing...

I had a junior tech in a sister shop hand me a bottle of basic PCMO 10w30 syn when I went searching for some HDEO. He said you could pour it in anything because it was synthetic. I talked to the lead tech after that and they had to track down every diesel work order that kid touch in the past 6 months.

As for the gear oil in the crank-case... you should smell the oil of any used vehicle to see if they poured some 75wXXX into it as it is the red-neck repair of passing off a leaker/burner in the used market


The general population doesnt know poop about oil.

I used to work at a car parts store for a little over a month. My boss told several customers that it was bad for your bearings to switch back and forth between conventional and synthetic oil. He sold the [censored] out of the Lucas treatment stuff too. He was a good salesman and many people believed him. Heck, a guys transmission was acting up so he just sold him Lucas quick fix goo. I went outside in the poring rain to tell him to just get the fluid right and do a pan drop/ filter change if that didnt fix it.

One time a customer came to me and asked what I thought about synthetic blends. He was told by a Jeep dealer in Michigan that he had to use a synthetic blend. I told him I had no issues with blends, but it sounded odd they told him he had to use one.. I told him to just check his OM and see what it takes and to keep all his receipts for warranty purposes. The said boss chimed in and said he had to do what the dealer said regardless. He then asked me about the M1 oil because it was on sale.. and of course I said it didnt meet Chryslers specs. The said boss chewed me out for "bashing" Mobil 1 and not making the sale once the customer left. I told him to go check the jugs because it wasnt the right thing for his car.. He said Chrysler needs to get their butt in gear because M1 is good enough for the FF of a new Corvette.
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
I still change it at 3-5K never any longer. So i guess i still do stupid stuff. LOL

If I do 3-5K for my MB E430 it will be expensive. The sump is 8.5 qts and it needs synthetic oil (prefer M1 0W40). I do 10-13k/12mo OCI, with Mityvac 7201 changing oil and filter in an MB is so easy, but I resit the temptation of changing early.

I do 5k for my 2004 S2000, because it is the annual mileage. After 11.5 years the odometer shows only 55.xxx miles.

I like to do 1 year OCI at late Fall around November time frame.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
before BITOG i ran cheap oils (SH and SJ at the time) for full 6000-7000 miles per the owner manuals. never engine problems with those beater cars. there was probably some varnish but i didn't care. i thought expensive Mobil 1 was for suckers only.

I think Lexus recommends dino SE or SF for 1994 LS400 with 7500 miles OCI. I did just that, kept the dino in the engine for full OCI at around 7-8k for first 3-4 years, I then change OCI to 6 months up to 10k with dino or 12 months up to 20k with synthetic.

The engine didn't have any problem as of now with 370+k miles, may be some vanish under the valve cover, but it never opened so I don't know for sure.
 
Three biggies come to mind:

1. Ran a 3800 Series II V-6 in the '99 Grand Prix I used to own bone-dry about 5 years ago this summer. Wasn't checking my oil regularly (laziness and ignorance) and it ran dry on me, the majority of the leaking from the oil sensor in the side of the pan. A total of $1700 later and got rid of the car because I got tired of it lol.

2. Ran 20w50 and Lucas together in the same car above, which was giving me the nice little oil light. Didn't think twice about it and kept driving, said action possibly leading up to what happened in #1....

3. Overheated the heck out of a 3300 V-6 in another of my former rides, a 93 Grand Am. To have been overheated so much, and me trying to patch the upper radiator "goose-neck", the car still ran amazingly well.


Thank goodness I've come a ways since then lol :p
 
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