Changing front struts and rear shocks on 96 Buick

[007]

Anyone change the struts and shocks on a 96 Buick Century.

I was thinking of getting the complete strut units for the front to save time and change out the rear shocks as well. Was wondering if its a pain to do?

Car has 40K miles but tends to float a bit.

 

[Leo99]

Does it pass the bounce test?

If you plan to work on cars in your future I'd recommend you get a cordless impact wrench. I have the one from Sears and it works great. Makes it a lot easier to pull off lug nuts and suspension nuts and bolts.

I used the complete struts when I changed mine out on my Corolla; not to save time but because I was scared to mess around with compressing the springs.

Don't know what it's like on a Buick but it was pretty easy on a Corolla.

 

[Bluestream]

If you're springs are fine, just get new struts. Very easy to change with a spring compressor tool that is free to borrow.

 

[Vern_in_IL]

I would get the complete struts for the REAR ONLY.


The Front cartridge only, that way you don't mess your wheel alignment up!!!!

You need a BIG offset box end wrench for the strut nuts. I would not buy the "special" tool for just one use, even the rented ones have boogered up sockets!!!!

 

[Recalculating]

I have done the struts and shocks on the below BPAU.

Done with Monroe products. Air shocks in the rear. Compressed the springs. Used the loan a tool program from Advance or similiar.

Use solvents like PB Blaster to break through tough bolts and use anti-seize on re-using those bolts. Research torque specs and follow through.

You will to need to support the vehicle safely and then have a jack to raise/lower the suspension on the side being worked on. There is plenty of how-tos on line to help. Maybe even Autozone if you have an account. It's an average auto maintenance job but not really for the novice without tool use experience.

Very little miles on that Century. Location of vehicle is a plus. Rubber parts hooked to the suspension, motor mounts, sway bars, trailing arms and the sort will be your next maintenance follow through. Good Luck with a keeper.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Quick struts are awesome. Saves a bunch of time. Especially on a 20yo car, the mounts do go bad, and all the rubber [censored] that needs to be replaced, insulators, boot, etc. The complete struts come with all the hardware.

@Vern, you'll still need an alignment even if you replace just the cartridge. Once you undo those bottom two bolts, you mess up the toe. This is true whether you use quick struts or just the cartridge.

Why mess with the big nut in the first place, if you don't have to? And the spring compressors available for rent are often garbage, too

And there's still time for the rebates. Monroe or Gabriel quick struts for not much more than cheap Chinese no-name [censored].

Yes, I'm a huge proponent of quick struts.

 

[Vern_in_IL]

Quote:

@Vern, you'll still need an alignment even if you replace just the cartridge. Once you undo those bottom two bolts, you mess up the toe. This is true whether you use quick struts or just the cartridge.


You sure? The last time I did a cartridge from memory..

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Scribe the strut mount cover plate-to-body to ensure proper camber adjustment when installing.
3. Unfasten the three strut mount cover plate retaining nuts, then remove the cover.
4. Remove the strut shaft nut using a No. 50 Torx and large offset box end. Jack up car. Push/pry down strut.
5. replace mount if needed.
6. Compress the strut shaft down into the cartridge.
7. Remove the strut cartridge closure nut by unscrewing the closure nut using special tool rented from Autozone.
8. Remove the strut cartridge, then remove the oil from the strut tube using a suitable suction device.

Bottom bolts stayed in.

 

[007]

I have air tools and will use quick struts in the front as I have been a victim of a bad loaner spring compressor! Rear of car has shocks separate from the springs so the front end is the only real issue.

 

[artificialist]

When I replace struts, I take the existing units to an auto repair shop, pay the mechanic about $25 per side. They do that with a good strut machine.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Originally Posted By: Vern_in_IL


You sure? The last time I did a cartridge from memory..

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Scribe the strut mount cover plate-to-body to ensure proper camber adjustment when installing.
3. Unfasten the three strut mount cover plate retaining nuts, then remove the cover.
4. Remove the strut shaft nut using a No. 50 Torx and large offset box end. Jack up car. Push/pry down strut.
5. replace mount if needed.
6. Compress the strut shaft down into the cartridge.
7. Remove the strut cartridge closure nut by unscrewing the closure nut using special tool rented from Autozone.
8. Remove the strut cartridge, then remove the oil from the strut tube using a suitable suction device.

Bottom bolts stayed in.


The only non-sealed struts I only have experience with Japanese cars that required you to remove the strut body anyway.

For the OP's car, I only see sealed struts available.

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Originally Posted By: Vern_in_IL


You sure? The last time I did a cartridge from memory..

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Scribe the strut mount cover plate-to-body to ensure proper camber adjustment when installing.
3. Unfasten the three strut mount cover plate retaining nuts, then remove the cover.
4. Remove the strut shaft nut using a No. 50 Torx and large offset box end. Jack up car. Push/pry down strut.
5. replace mount if needed.
6. Compress the strut shaft down into the cartridge.
7. Remove the strut cartridge closure nut by unscrewing the closure nut using special tool rented from Autozone.
8. Remove the strut cartridge, then remove the oil from the strut tube using a suitable suction device.

Bottom bolts stayed in.


The only non-sealed struts I only have experience with Japanese cars that required you to remove the strut body anyway.

For the OP's car, I only see sealed struts available.

From about 1989 to 1996, certain GM cars had strut cartridges for the front, however, I am not sure which ones.

In those models, you can change the front strut cartridge without even lifting the car, so long as you have the lisle specialty tool.

 

[zrxkawboy]

Originally Posted By: Vern_in_IL
You sure? The last time I did a cartridge from memory..

.


How do you replace a strut if you don't remove the bottom bolts?

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
Originally Posted By: Vern_in_IL
You sure? The last time I did a cartridge from memory..

.


How do you replace a strut if you don't remove the bottom bolts?


Some don't have such bolts. Here is a diagram of what his car might have:
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528006823b

 

[zrxkawboy]

OK, I see. That is a unique set-up!