Silver vs Copper Anti-seize lubricant..

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what's the difference b/t these two, besides their ingredients? In what situations would I use the one but not the other?

Seems like the silver is more popular, but I want to know...is there a difference aside from price (copper is usually 4-5 dollars more)

thanks in advance
 
Generally speaking, you use the anti-seize base metal that is not present in the fastener and part. Contamination issues are a different topic.
 
What is the silver stuff? I use it on wheels. Last time I was at the garage the guy said to not bother with it, not worth it/not effective. I think it does something, but he is right, it does make quite the mess.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
What is the silver stuff? I use it on wheels.


I hope you don't mean you apply it to wheel studs/lug nuts as that is a big no no. Wheel studs should be clean and dry. If lug nuts are properly torqued, there should never be an issue removing them.
 
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Originally Posted By: maximus
Originally Posted By: supton
What is the silver stuff? I use it on wheels.


I hope you don't mean you apply it to wheel studs/lug nuts as that is a big no no. Wheel studs should be clean and dry. If lug nuts are properly torqued, there should never be an issue removing them.


Here we go.........

I feelfor you New Englanders who do not apply AS, get the lugs aired on and rarely rotate your tires.......




OP, i applied half my cylinders' sparkplugs with silver and the other half with copper....ask me again when I have to change the plugs.....they are iridiums and I dont drive manymiles.
 
No, I don't apply to studs, although I might on one vehicle, the nuts are rather noisy of late. I slather anitsieze onto other metal surfaces where the rims like to sieze to the hub.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
What is the silver stuff? I use it on wheels. Last time I was at the garage the guy said to not bother with it, not worth it/not effective. I think it does something, but he is right, it does make quite the mess.


In other words, he doesn't want to get his hands dirty.

If you get regular rotations, it may not be such a big deal, but in NH (and the rest of the rust belt) I would use anti-seize, just use it sparingly.
 
I tried to follow BITOG wisdom, but then I got tired of the nuts becoming increasingly reluctant each time I swapped out my snows.

So I put just a dab of AS on the studs when I change over wheels. It just works and makes life easier. No snapped studs as yet. And I torque it down with my HF 1/2 clicker that has never been calibrated. The horror.
 
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