2011 IS250 - Oil reducing carbon buildup

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so I picked up a new to me 2011 IS250 RWD 6MT in mint condition with only 29,000kms, original owner. Doing my research on this engine, its well known for carbon buildup issues.

I noticed '06-10 models, Toyota recommended 5/10W30, and then later '11 and up the move to 0W20.

I have read a study that Group II oil, changing at a more frequent interval with the occasional high load/rpms is a good way to reduce buildup.

Just wondering your thoughts on this, if at my next change switch to a 5W30 conventional oil. The oil in it now is 0W20 TGMO.

this is my daily driver from which I plan to keep for along time, so your advice is appreciated

thanks

PS I did a search and there is not much talk on the IS250
smile.gif
 
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I run pp 10w30. Cheapest oil with low noack. Lowest noack of cheap oil. Whatever..4.7% at 4-5$ a qt is good deal anyway you look at it.
 
Mobil I 5w-30 is rated #10 out of 153 oils for wear on 540ratblog.wordpress.com(540 Rat Tech Facts) Don't know how it would rank for cleanliness. Probably about as good as any synthetic oil.
 
It's better to treat the cause of the problem than to chase the symptoms.
Those symptoms will continue to occur until you treat the cause of the problem.

VTA the PCV and map out or block off the EGR and bingo! No more carbon buildup.
 
Lexus Canada recommendeds 10w30 for the IS250 models? If they do, I haven't seen that at Lexus or Toyota.
Lexus lists 5w20/5w30 for the 01/02 years,then 5w30 for 03-08, 5w20/5w30 for 09, 0w20/5w20/5w30 for the 2010. Finally only 0w20 is recommended for the 2011 IS250.
I would trust that the manufacturer has done the testing and recommended the correct oil grade.
The main concern I'd have is if the vehicle carried any warranty, Id want to be sure I was following that.
Enjoy the car....
 
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W20 while in warranty. 5W30 after that.

I have read that running 91+ octane helps with carbon deposits on DI engines, too. But I think that is required anyway for those.
 
I think the study you're referencing used the Hyundai Theta II 2.4 engine and was posted here a week or so ago. Personally, I'd like to see some broader studies done before I'll buy into something as being conclusive.

IMO, there are first generation and second generation GDI designs in recent years represented by VW/Audi ( old ) and Toyota/Honda/Hyundai etc. ( newer ) and I'm not convinced that using Group II oil, occasionally driving it like you stole it, and changing the oil more often will yield the same results in all these engines.

Quality gas seems to be the main thing for trying to limit these deposits but I'd be interested in seeing the effect of GTL oil on deposit formation if there's a correlation versus just using PYB for example. I've been changing the oil in my DI car between 4-5K miles and I don't look at that as excessive or a waste of money but potentially preventative maintenance with the number of unknowns that seem to be there.
 
Originally Posted By: Brigadier
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W20 while in warranty. 5W30 after that.

I have read that running 91+ octane helps with carbon deposits on DI engines, too. But I think that is required anyway for those.


That is the problem with DI engines though is gas doesn't reach the back of the valves TO clean. The grade of fuel won't make a difference. Otherwise you could just use any ole fuel injector cleaner.
The most I've gotten out of this is to get a catch can setup and let that do its job. I think that is over kill and am putting my faith in the manufacturers doing their research. The only thing I'm doing is running top tier fuel only and high quality oil(Penn. Ultra Platinum).
 
Carbon build-up is a very common problem with DI engines. Audis are notorious of losing HP after a few tens of thousands miles. This is why late model Lexus has 2X injectors.
 
Lot's of theories out there...

*Using Top Tier fuel
*Using GrpIV oils only
*Using low TEOST GrpIII
*Using low Noack GrpIII at OEM recommended oci
*Using low Noack GrpIII at no more than 5k ml oci
*Using GrpII at no more than 5k ml oci
*Using oils containing the least amount of calcium additives

http://papers.sae.org/2014-32-0092/

http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/overseas/conference/pdf/conference12-19.pdf

http://gf-6.com/sites/default/files/Turb...ig%20Hurdle.pdf

And then again, all this may be overblown...
 
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Stick with synthetic. Too many overhyped papers, studies,... without understanding all the parameters.

Any 0w20 is what I would use. Stick with toptier fuel and don't skimp on octane during the warmer months. Nothing wrong with using a bottle of FI cleaner once or twice a year.

Keep driving and post some pictures.
 
It's not about oil or fuel, they make ZERO difference to carbon buildup.

EGR blows soot into the manifold. PCV adds oily vapour to the soot creating a sticky paste that coats everything.

Delete/reroute/reengineer the systems and solve the problem.

Different oils and fuels are a lame, weak, superfluous way to attempt to treat the symptoms.
 
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Stick with synthetic. Too many overhyped papers, studies,... without understanding all the parameters.

Any 0w20 is what I would use. Stick with toptier fuel and don't skimp on octane during the warmer months. Nothing wrong with using a bottle of FI cleaner once or twice a year.

Keep driving and post some pictures.


Thank you to everyone who provided input. I will stick to TGMO 0W20 and Top Tier 91 fuel. I would not mind trying a catch can from the PCV. Any recommendations?

Here are some pictures. Starfire Peal White. Wheels are 19" ISF Forged Refinished Hyper Grey. Tires are 245/35Fr & 275/30Rr Advan AD08R.
YoZidd.jpg
eBEth1.jpg
 
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Where do you think that oily vapor originates? Oil and gas....seems pretty straight forward to minimize the effects by using top quality fluids.

Originally Posted By: Olas
It's not about oil or fuel, they make ZERO difference to carbon buildup.

EGR blows soot into the manifold. PCV adds oily vapour to the soot creating a sticky paste that coats everything.

Delete/reroute/reengineer the systems and solve the problem.

Different oils and fuels are a lame, weak, superfluous way to attempt to treat the symptoms.
 
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The quality of the gas absolutely has an effect on deposits and can make a difference but you almost have to temper that with the DI engine you're looking at...Some manufacturers base their decision to import DI cars into certain countries based on the quality of the fuel. That should tell you that there's a strong connection.

It still looks like the carbon deposit issue is much more consistent with certain pre-2010 models than later editions which ( it appears ) can handle varying qualities of gasoline better. Better designs with better software / PCM calibrations versus the older VW/Audi problem units for example. All DI engines are not alike and probably shouldn't be thought of as a monolithic entity. DI=bad and MPI=good/acceptable is an easy way out but it doesn't answer the question moving forward.
 
Originally Posted By: Vuflanovsky
The quality of the gas absolutely has an effect on deposits and can make a difference but you almost have to temper that with the DI engine you're looking at...Some manufacturers base their decision to import DI cars into certain countries based on the quality of the fuel. That should tell you that there's a strong connection.

It still looks like the carbon deposit issue is much more consistent with certain pre-2010 models than later editions which ( it appears ) can handle varying qualities of gasoline better. Better designs with better software / PCM calibrations versus the older VW/Audi problem units for example. All DI engines are not alike and probably shouldn't be thought of as a monolithic entity. DI=bad and MPI=good/acceptable is an easy way out but it doesn't answer the question moving forward.


Well said.
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
Lot's of theories out there...

*Using Top Tier fuel
*Using GrpIV oils only
*Using low TEOST GrpIII
*Using low Noack GrpIII at OEM recommended oci
*Using low Noack GrpIII at no more than 5k ml oci
*Using GrpII at no more than 5k ml oci
*Using oils containing the least amount of calcium additives

http://papers.sae.org/2014-32-0092/

http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/overseas/conference/pdf/conference12-19.pdf

http://gf-6.com/sites/default/files/Turb...ig%20Hurdle.pdf

And then again, all this may be overblown...



Interesting information. As TEOST and Noack values for most oils are hard to find and absent any helpful manufacturer recommendations, a strategy for DI/Turbo DI owners would seem to be 1) synthetic oil changed at a sensible interval and 2) using a low-calcium product like Mobil1 or Castrol Edge and avoiding high calcium add packs used by SOPUS, Valvoline, etc. Or, as you suggest, it may not matter at all.
 
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