Generator Won't Start

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Originally Posted By: Donald
I would avoid the MMO, its not really for what you want.

Hunt around for E0 fuel (at gas stations) and some blue marine Stabil (Walmart has it, either in automotive or marine).

You should be testing it with a load every 6 months. Wait too long and it can loose the excite.

If you cannot find E0 at a gas station, then just for testing it every 6 months, either buy the E0 by the QT at Homedepot or some 50/1 premix. Use a cup of it, to start test, then no real need to run it dry or drain fuel bowl.


That's not a bad idea at all... e0 from Home Depot or someplace

When you say "wait too long and it can lose the excite", what do you mean?
 
The following is a repost:

Generators that turn 3600 RPMs like my Coleman 5000 / 6250 with Tecumseh HM-100 have a residual magnetism that remains in the armature. When these units start to generate power that residual magnetism starts the initial flow of power. The current flow from then on increases that residual magnetism until it reaches a maximum. IF the generator sits too long it can (may or may not) loose the residual magnetism. IF it does loose the residual magnetism you will have to ZAP the armature with some source (electric current from a 6 or 12 Volt battery, or a huge magnet near it) to get a residual magnetism started. It is interesting that people who have done this say that if you have a light bulb on the output of the generator, it slowly increases in brightens. This is because the output current causes an increase in residual magnetism, that causes an increase in output voltage and current, that causes an increase in residual magnetism – exc. -exc.

So if you do not want a 3600 to loose its residual magnetism you should run it once in a while. How often is anybodys guess, and the time interval to loose the residual magnetism probably varies with the manufacturer, and maybe even with individual units.

If there is not an outage, I now run my Coleman Powermate about twice a year, and so far have never had to zap it.

Then there is the problem of keeping the carb clean. The small idle circuit air hole just behind the choke plate (on the floor of the air passage before the main jet) tends to get clogged up. Sta-Bil or Redline SL-1 in the fuel helps fight the ethanol in the fuel that aids this clogging. WD-40 down that hole before storage is a good idea.

I have a Generac ix2000 that I ran Stabil and then sprayed WD-40 on the carb idle circuit, and main jet. I also foamed the cylinder with Sta-Bil Foaming spray oil, and pulled the rope a few times with the spark plug out. Then put the spark plug in and lightly pulled the rope so it stopped on a compression stroke so moisture from the air can not condense out of the air and build up in the cylinder, and also the springs for the valves are not in full compression. I will leave this gen-set sit like this for several years if it is not needed for an outage. This generator is not a 3600 RPM unit and to the best of my knowledge does not require residual magnetism to start. However if it did not generate any electric when first used I would hold a huge magnet near the electric generation section to initate it.

It is a good idea to pull the bowl off after you run it dry, so you clean out any crud and also get the last bit of fuel out of it.


Probably the best fuel tubing is Tygon fuel tubing. You can get it from McMaster-Carr. There are several kinds of Tygon tubing. The kind you want is Tygon F-4040-A , and McMaster-Carr sells it in just about any ID you could use.

McMaster-Carr has a special deal with UPS. Expect you package to arrive at your door in one day, two days tops. And the shipping charge will be low.
 
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I put the blue marine Stabil in it. I start it every 2 months and let the bowl drain until it dies on its own. With battery operated and remote control start, this is the easiest maintenance for any OPE! I then mark it on the paper wall calender. This has served me well so far last two or three years. I don't always hook up load to it though; I should do that though.
 
Quick update:

Disconnected the low oil sponsor and the generator started right up... Ran it for a while then reconnected the sensor and it ran like a champ.

Changed the oil and hooked up a space heater and it powered up well

Not sure why the sensor misread the oil... Maybe the cold winter caused the oil to be misread...?

Thanks again for all the input
 
The sensors are an actual float..floats in the oil...cold sticky oil and sitting around will make them quit once in awhile....glad its running...easy fix
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Finz
Quick update:

Disconnected the low oil sponsor and the generator started right up... Ran it for a while then reconnected the sensor and it ran like a champ.

Changed the oil and hooked up a space heater and it powered up well

Not sure why the sensor misread the oil... Maybe the cold winter caused the oil to be misread...?

Thanks again for all the input


Plus you now have a clean carb in your now working generator
grin.gif
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Whimsey
 
There are 2 parts to the low oil sensor, one in the engine that almost never goes bad and a tiny potted electronic module that often fails. It has a electrolitic capacitor in it that is poor quality. Running it a bit probably formed up the cap a little bit, but it will fail again. The little module is to allow the engine to start, then the internal pressure sensor takes over. I bought one on Ebay for under $5 that is working fine.

Rod
 
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