Fired the mower up today.

[dlundblad]

Checked the oil and the 6.5 B&S fired right up on the second try.

I have never used any fuel saver, cleaner, etc. in any of the OPE's and they all start up just fine with E10.

I have started to run the OPE engines dry if they have fuel on/ off valves, but that's about it.

 

[PhilsSmallEngine]

I read your post like this:

Reached for my hammer I left in the mud and I drove a nail in 2 hits.

I don't oil it or care for it and it doesn't matter how rusty it gets because at the end of the day, it's a hammer.

For all the flack I give Briggs engines for being fragile when it comes to hitting sticks/rocks/roots etc, they are remarkably resilient and easy to fix. It's the same reason I refuse to scrap this 20" fake Lawn Boy I acquired with that same engine. No matter how ugly it looks, how little I care for it and no matter how much rain/snow get on it, it still starts in 2 pulls... max.

 

[19jacobob93]

B&S engines have always been flawless for me! Our trusty old B&S mower will start first time even if left for months with no additives. Just primed a few times and one or two pulls and up she fires! Had the thing about 10 years now too!

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: PhilsSmallEngine
I read your post like this:

Reached for my hammer I left in the mud and I drove a nail in 2 hits.

I don't oil it or care for it and it doesn't matter how rusty it gets because at the end of the day, it's a hammer.

For all the flack I give Briggs engines for being fragile when it comes to hitting sticks/rocks/roots etc, they are remarkably resilient and easy to fix. It's the same reason I refuse to scrap this 20" fake Lawn Boy I acquired with that same engine. No matter how ugly it looks, how little I care for it and no matter how much rain/snow get on it, it still starts in 2 pulls... max.


That's taking it a bit far isn't it?

The mower was in a shed (concrete floor and insulated walls) all winter long with the Lawn Boys and yard vac. It gets a new air filter and oil yearly so I hardly consider it neglected.

 

[PhilsSmallEngine]

I wouldn't say taking it too far. That engine series has proven to be a reliable workhorse for 20 years no matter how it's treated. I've seen them with 10+ year old oil with a filter that is darker than night and a 10 year old spark plug and they run okay. Not great, but usable. They aren't Honda reliable, but closer than most care to admit.

The only weakness is whether or not it's a primer base (indestructible), or the ready start (depends on the springs). I've killed more of them than I'd care to admit, but won't necessarily blame the engine because I used them for purposes that aren't listed in the user manual. Primarily using lawn mowers as brush cutters in uncharted territory. Luckily, they're cheap/free in most cases.

 

[Merkava_4]

dlundblad - you should start using a fuel preservative. Gasoline only lasts 30 days before it starts doing weird things. Use 1 ounce of sta-bil for every 2.5 gallons.

 

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: 19jacobob93
B&S engines have always been flawless for me! Our trusty old B&S mower will start first time even if left for months with no additives. Just primed a few times and one or two pulls and up she fires! Had the thing about 10 years now too!


You're right. A move precision built engine with finely machined passages and carburetors will require proper storage procedures to be followed to run at peak performance. The lowly B&S will either run or not run.

 

[4wheeldog]

I find the OP's actions similar to winning at Russian roulette. You may be a winner, but it doesn't make you smart. If you keep playing, you will lose, eventually.

 

[IndyIan]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Checked the oil and the 6.5 B&S fired right up on the second try.

I have never used any fuel saver, cleaner, etc. in any of the OPE's and they all start up just fine with E10.

I have started to run the OPE engines dry if they have fuel on/ off valves, but that's about it.

I do the same with my old B&S tiller, although I run 91 octane E0 in everything that isn't a car. It never fires second try as its got a goofy auto choke which doesn't seem to choke anything. Usually I tip it over so it floods a bit, then pull until it clears out enough to fire up and away it goes for its day or two of glory in the garden and then back into the shed for another year.

 

[Rand]

You guys PhilsSmallEngine you
are awful harsh.. want to call him a molester while you are at it sheesh.

If it gets oil and a filter each year its better than 95% of people.

We have E10 here and I just store it full in the garage over the winter. The only problems I've had is storing over the summer. Even if you get them dry a gasket starts leaking or something else dries out and dies.

I do throw in some marine stabil but no evidence it helps or hurts.

I've had some equipment last 10+ years and others need some TLC within 5.

The last major fix was the plastic carb on the toro warped over the winter.... while stored in the basement.

 

[PhilsSmallEngine]

The internet really needs a dedicated sarcasm font. It was a ribbing for him thinking he abused or wronged his equipment. There was no intent there to be mean. Much like the rest of us, we tend to overdo maintenance and there is always 1 machine we forget/can't fully finish at the end of a season and all we can do is hope it fires up without trouble.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
I find the OP's actions similar to winning at Russian roulette. You may be a winner, but it doesn't make you smart. If you keep playing, you will lose, eventually.


This is rich.

What I have been doing has worked for me as long as I've been mowing.

 

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
I find the OP's actions similar to winning at Russian roulette. You may be a winner, but it doesn't make you smart. If you keep playing, you will lose, eventually.


This is rich.

What I have been doing has worked for me as long as I've been mowing.

You live a charmed life...How can you argue that proper storage for an engine is not needed? It takes 5 mins, and is cheap insurance.

 

[jhellwig]

Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
I find the OP's actions similar to winning at Russian roulette. You may be a winner, but it doesn't make you smart. If you keep playing, you will lose, eventually.


This is rich.

What I have been doing has worked for me as long as I've been mowing.

You live a charmed life...How can you argue that proper storage for an engine is not needed? It takes 5 mins, and is cheap insurance.


How is a magic fluid you dump in the gas going to fix a problem that isn't there? Some of us have absolutely no problems storing ope wit e10 and no stabil or whatever. We don't need the insurance.

 

[jeepman3071]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
dlundblad - you should start using a fuel preservative. Gasoline only lasts 30 days before it starts doing weird things. Use 1 ounce of sta-bil for every 2.5 gallons.



+1

You are only problem free... until you start having problems. Most of the engines I've worked on that are impacted by the ethanol fuel ran fine then suddenly won't start. I always find a carb full of varnish, and the machine will run fine until that varnish ends up in a carb jet.

I had one lady down the street from me who didn't use stabilizer. Her equipment sat over the winter, and guess what, every single one of them needed the carb cleaned this spring lol. Where I live, we don't have the option of ethanol free fuel, all grades including 93 have "up to 10%" ethanol. I use the Stabil Marine and now the new Stabil for ethanol fuels. Both work well, and cost like $15 for a bottle. I just pour it in with the fuel cans when I fill them up. I haven't had any problems even with equipment that gets used once a year. That is worth $15 to me. I've personally only had one carb get clogged up from ethanol fuels, but that was before I started using Stabil. I'm sure my other equipment MAY be fine since it gets run almost year round, but I work on enough equipment for customers to know the risks. I have bad luck, and I'm sure if there is potential for my equipment to not start due to carb problems, it will be when I need it most.

 

[jeepman3071]

Originally Posted By: jhellwig
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
I find the OP's actions similar to winning at Russian roulette. You may be a winner, but it doesn't make you smart. If you keep playing, you will lose, eventually.


This is rich.

What I have been doing has worked for me as long as I've been mowing.

You live a charmed life...How can you argue that proper storage for an engine is not needed? It takes 5 mins, and is cheap insurance.


How is a magic fluid you dump in the gas going to fix a problem that isn't there? Some of us have absolutely no problems storing ope wit e10 and no stabil or whatever. We don't need the insurance.


The problem with ethanol is it attracts moisture, so the problem is really dependent on frequency of use of the machine, and the environment in which it is being stored. For example, a machine stored in a dry garage in Arizona that is used every week may not have issues, but a snow blower stored outside in a moist environment will. I've seen snow blowers that had algae growing in the carb after being outside a few months. Using Stabil prevented it on that machine. Is it magic? Probably not, but I hate cleaning carbs when I shouldn't have to. I'll spend the $15 on the Stabil so my machines won't be down when I need them. Is Stabil the end-all solution? Probably not, but if it decreases the risk somewhat than it is worth it to me.

 

[jhellwig]

We have had ethanol here for a very long time and have only ever had one issue. When you change to ethanol it cleans out the fuel system. Replace the fuel filter and you are good to go. Ethanol isn't going to suck water out of the air anymore than condensation will put in it. Also when there is water in the fuel ethanol will emulsify it and take it through the system. You can put 15% water in your e10 or even regular gas and it will run it right through.

The problem is the gasoline itself. Not what is added to it or lack of what is added to it.

 

[Warstud]

Just because you dont have any problems now doesn't mean you wont in the future nor anyone else.

 

[andyd]

Last season, the Suzuki on the Toro stopped being GTS. The 2 stroke Suzuki failed to thrive under my care. The 4 stroke has been fine and I have just done oil changes and blade sharpening. If I take out the air filter and give it a squirt of carb cleaner, it will start in a couple of pulls. It does hunt at no load. Under partial load, blade engaged, It hunts. It settles down when mowing and pushing itself. I replaced the fuel line ,filter shut off and a plug. No change, but the fuel line was disintegrating. It looked like vacuum hose,but pretty sure it was original, just too old. Trouble is that neoprene went somewhere. The B+S filter I took off was just a screen.The shut off was hard to operate because there was no resistance from the limp hose. I replaced it, just 'cuz. This is the 2nd instance I have had of OPE fuel hose turning to mush. I have poured the end of last yrs B12 Chem-Tool into the tank in hopes of it dissolving whatever is leaning out the carb. I am also going to run it on 93 octane this yr. I am settling for this instead of messing with a Mikuni carb.