Questions about brakes

[PeterGreen]

I drive a three year old Acura TL and a lot of its 41000 miles is in traffic. How will I know when I need new brakes? I haven't heard any squealing yet, so I am assuming I am still good. Can I tell from looking at the brake pads how many more miles I have in them?
If I do need new brakes, will I need also to get rotors? I know from my previous car, a Saab 9-5 that every time I needed brakes, i also needed rotors.

In this day and age of internet pricing, will it make any sense for me to buy brake pads and rotors on line, and then bring them to a mechanic to do the labor?

My mechanical abilities and time are limited. I do change my own oil and filters, and rotate the tires myself, but don't have time to change brake pads myself. I understand a lot of handy people here probably do that themselves, but it is just not possible with my 60+ hour work week.

I appreciate in advance any helpful advice from my fellow BITOGers.

 

[Olas]

The majority of new cars have wear sensors which put a warning light on the dashboard. Certain pad manufacturers put a wire clip (similar to a kerb-feeler) on the pad which gives an audible warning when the pad wears down low enough for the clip to contact the disc.

If you can see your pads through the spokes of your wheels, replace thm when the friction material gets down to 2 or 3mm, any lower and you risk scoring your discs..

 

[Olas]

Taking your own parts to an independent mechanic stops them from marking up the parts - depending on the guy that might make his labour more expensive. Plus he probably gets more discount on his trade account than you get from an online vendor - ask for an estimate for the job with and without you supplying parts, and see how much you can get them for.

Do yu have a buddy who knows cars? He'll do it for beers if you keep him company while he works.

 

[Olas]

You shouldnt need discs after 41k, unless they're warped (vibration through the steering when you brake) or if they're lipped (put your fingernail on the disc and move out to the circumference - if they're smooth you're good. If you feel a raised lip at the circumference replace them)

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Olas
Taking your own parts to an independent mechanic stops them from marking up the parts - depending on the guy that might make his labour more expensive.


Some mechanics won't guarantee their work unless they use their own parts.

 

[JustinH]

There are tons of mobile mechanic type places all over yelp and craigslist.

Many are highly rated.

Send one a message.

Honestly get a buddy to take a look and see what you need before you buy more parts than you need.

At 41k you may be able to get away with pads and have a shop resurface the rotors.

Don't let anybody just slap pads on there.

 

[Oro_O]

Do not neglect to clean the caliper pins and re-coat them with a proper hi-temp Silicone grease like Sil-Glyde. Regular axle grease will not cut it, especially in the salt zone of NY. Make sure the "hats" protecting the pin shaft are not damaged and provide a good seal for the pin body and grease.

 

[artificialist]

SAAB brakes typically needed replacement every times the pads wear out. All Euro cars I encountered have soft brake rotors that wear out that way.

Japanese and American cars are different. Rotors are built to last longer. You can measure the rotor with a micrometer and compare your number to the vehicle specification. You can take the existing rotors to most repair shops and pay $10-$20 per side if there is enough rotor material left.

 

[garlicbreadman]

You will hear a constant audible screech when you need brake pads, until then, don't sweat it.

It will take 15-20 minutes extra to do your brakes when you do your tire rotations.