Would this be a wise decision?
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Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Does anybody know?
In my unprofessional opinion, i'd say it's oil since its green (which I believe is the color of the oil you pour into an A/C compressor when replacing. Unless it's growling, and has a lot of resistance and noisy, it's probably fine and just needs topping off.
Does anybody know?
In my unprofessional opinion, i'd say it's oil since its green (which I believe is the color of the oil you pour into an A/C compressor when replacing. Unless it's growling, and has a lot of resistance and noisy, it's probably fine and just needs topping off.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Does anybody know?
In my unprofessional opinion, i'd say it's oil since its green (which I believe is the color of the oil you pour into an A/C compressor when replacing. Unless it's growling, and has a lot of resistance and noisy, it's probably fine and just needs topping off.
What do you mean by resistance? Because when it comes on when driving I do feel a "loss of power", or parasitic drag. And how do you top off the oil, vs topping off the freon?
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Does anybody know?
In my unprofessional opinion, i'd say it's oil since its green (which I believe is the color of the oil you pour into an A/C compressor when replacing. Unless it's growling, and has a lot of resistance and noisy, it's probably fine and just needs topping off.
What do you mean by resistance? Because when it comes on when driving I do feel a "loss of power", or parasitic drag. And how do you top off the oil, vs topping off the freon?
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
any car loan is a bad investment
A car is not an investment
any car loan is a bad investment
A car is not an investment
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Does anybody know?
In my unprofessional opinion, i'd say it's oil since its green (which I believe is the color of the oil you pour into an A/C compressor when replacing. Unless it's growling, and has a lot of resistance and noisy, it's probably fine and just needs topping off.
What do you mean by resistance? Because when it comes on when driving I do feel a "loss of power", or parasitic drag. And how do you top off the oil, vs topping off the freon?
My car has a loss of power with A/C on and so did my Camry, What I meant as resistance was a significant loss in power and it being really loud. My Camry's compressor was getting pretty grumbly and loud before I sold it, and had a pretty good impact on the car's acceleration (which it didn't have much of anyways). It also was lacking in how cold the A/C got, despite the proper levels of refrigerant.
The auto parts stores sells cans of PAG oil. I'd buy a can of regular r134a with the gauge and hook it onto your car to see if it's actually low. Even though you can see it has a leak it might not be significant enough to actually be low enough to need a charge. You can add the oil into there and then top off with freon (totally something you can do, you won't need a mechanic)
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Does anybody know?
In my unprofessional opinion, i'd say it's oil since its green (which I believe is the color of the oil you pour into an A/C compressor when replacing. Unless it's growling, and has a lot of resistance and noisy, it's probably fine and just needs topping off.
What do you mean by resistance? Because when it comes on when driving I do feel a "loss of power", or parasitic drag. And how do you top off the oil, vs topping off the freon?
My car has a loss of power with A/C on and so did my Camry, What I meant as resistance was a significant loss in power and it being really loud. My Camry's compressor was getting pretty grumbly and loud before I sold it, and had a pretty good impact on the car's acceleration (which it didn't have much of anyways). It also was lacking in how cold the A/C got, despite the proper levels of refrigerant.
The auto parts stores sells cans of PAG oil. I'd buy a can of regular r134a with the gauge and hook it onto your car to see if it's actually low. Even though you can see it has a leak it might not be significant enough to actually be low enough to need a charge. You can add the oil into there and then top off with freon (totally something you can do, you won't need a mechanic)
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Does anybody know?
Can't say unless you post a video of the leak area, but I would say yes. However just get yourself a cheap low pressure gauge set and check the pressure, if it is just top it off using the gauge to put in the correct amount. Double check the vent temp as well, if it is getting down to around the mid 40s on a 85 degree day you are fine.
Does anybody know?
Can't say unless you post a video of the leak area, but I would say yes. However just get yourself a cheap low pressure gauge set and check the pressure, if it is just top it off using the gauge to put in the correct amount. Double check the vent temp as well, if it is getting down to around the mid 40s on a 85 degree day you are fine.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Does anybody know?
In my unprofessional opinion, i'd say it's oil since its green (which I believe is the color of the oil you pour into an A/C compressor when replacing. Unless it's growling, and has a lot of resistance and noisy, it's probably fine and just needs topping off.
What do you mean by resistance? Because when it comes on when driving I do feel a "loss of power", or parasitic drag. And how do you top off the oil, vs topping off the freon?
My car has a loss of power with A/C on and so did my Camry, What I meant as resistance was a significant loss in power and it being really loud. My Camry's compressor was getting pretty grumbly and loud before I sold it, and had a pretty good impact on the car's acceleration (which it didn't have much of anyways). It also was lacking in how cold the A/C got, despite the proper levels of refrigerant.
The auto parts stores sells cans of PAG oil. I'd buy a can of regular r134a with the gauge and hook it onto your car to see if it's actually low. Even though you can see it has a leak it might not be significant enough to actually be low enough to need a charge. You can add the oil into there and then top off with freon (totally something you can do, you won't need a mechanic)
I dont know how to add oil / vs add freon, and where to add either one.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Does anybody know?
In my unprofessional opinion, i'd say it's oil since its green (which I believe is the color of the oil you pour into an A/C compressor when replacing. Unless it's growling, and has a lot of resistance and noisy, it's probably fine and just needs topping off.
What do you mean by resistance? Because when it comes on when driving I do feel a "loss of power", or parasitic drag. And how do you top off the oil, vs topping off the freon?
My car has a loss of power with A/C on and so did my Camry, What I meant as resistance was a significant loss in power and it being really loud. My Camry's compressor was getting pretty grumbly and loud before I sold it, and had a pretty good impact on the car's acceleration (which it didn't have much of anyways). It also was lacking in how cold the A/C got, despite the proper levels of refrigerant.
The auto parts stores sells cans of PAG oil. I'd buy a can of regular r134a with the gauge and hook it onto your car to see if it's actually low. Even though you can see it has a leak it might not be significant enough to actually be low enough to need a charge. You can add the oil into there and then top off with freon (totally something you can do, you won't need a mechanic)
I dont know how to add oil / vs add freon, and where to add either one.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
They sell the cans of refrigerant at the auto parts store and they have the gauges on them. On the can there will be a chart that tells you what the pressure should be depending on the outside temperature (say - 55 psi). You hook the hose up onto your A/C fitting (there's a high and low fitting marked H & L, it'll only for on one of them so there's nothing to worry about with that) and once it's hooked up and the car is running with the A/C on MAX you'll get your pressure. If it's 45 psi and you need 55 psi, just squeeze the trigger for 10 seconds or so then let off and look at the gauge.
There are certain rules you should follow if you're thinking of buying a Volkswagen, new or used.
1) Most of the engines are good, but some have known problems. Educate yourself about these problems before buying.
2) Manual transmissions will save you lots of money in the long run, and are more fun. The DSG transmissions are very clever, but require an expensive service every 40k miles. The conventional automatics are okay now, but the older 4-speed automatics were not.
3) Find an independent VW mechanic or shop; better yet, find two. After your VW is out of warranty, stay away from the dealerships. Most are bad, and some are even worse.
1) Most of the engines are good, but some have known problems. Educate yourself about these problems before buying.
2) Manual transmissions will save you lots of money in the long run, and are more fun. The DSG transmissions are very clever, but require an expensive service every 40k miles. The conventional automatics are okay now, but the older 4-speed automatics were not.
3) Find an independent VW mechanic or shop; better yet, find two. After your VW is out of warranty, stay away from the dealerships. Most are bad, and some are even worse.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Its called a relationship. Let me guess, you have separate bank accounts too?
LOL why would you assume that? because my wife and I are free willed, without the other either controlling or ordering us? I'm sorry I don't see the point in living that way.
Its called a relationship. Let me guess, you have separate bank accounts too?
LOL why would you assume that? because my wife and I are free willed, without the other either controlling or ordering us? I'm sorry I don't see the point in living that way.
Before this thread spiral out of into the deep, dark place called distraction, here are my 2c's worth:
(a) DO NOT top off/refill any A/C systems with those trigger/gauge in a can deal. The sealant within will ruin the shop's recovery system (exp. the filters), causing them downtime and may even ended up billing you for that.
If it's only minor refrigerant leack, consider getting the R134A only cans.
Sometimes, you may be able to get R134A _ a few Ozs worth of top-up oil, all in the same package.
Unlike R12, R134A system is very finicky and delicate---doesn't take much to blow it's seals (overcharging) or ruining it completely.
When in doubt: spend the money and get it done in a shop.
(b) for locating A/C leaks, you should consider getting dye-only oil into the system (then use UV light to find the leak, usually in fluorescent yellow/green when leaked). Slightly off topic.
(c) Take others advice and stay away from VW if you have a functional(working fine) Honda to live with.
(d) automobiles are more like a disposible commodity where they will depreciate over time (some models depreciate less over time). On the other hand: house or property that you own shall, unless you are in a rather bad area (such as old Detroit, etc.) where the economy cannot sustain growth and normal activities, otherwise: your property shall appreciate over time. In my area: single detached housing has doubled in 10 yrs time, still appreciating by between 4~7% on an annual basis.... even cemetery appreciates in value....
(e)in a nation where credits were cheep to come by, most avg joes where fed with the illusions that so long as the banks/credit unions are able to loan them money (that they neither have the ability to pay back, nor would they have the means to do so properly), they would go out on a shopping spree: from skidoos to properties, to fancy clothes shopping (on credits)....They are fueled by the need of immediate self-gratifications (me wants this, me wants that, etc.) Most of these folks haven't learn their lessons RE: subprime mortgage bust back in 2008, and still continue to do so.... eventually lead to complete financial ruins.
Me? Me and my family's biggest debt so far is the mortgage. Other than my 9 yrs old fit (paid outright, 1st owner), my wifey's camry is a 10yrs old 2nd hand unit. We are financially disciplined in the sense that we keep our spending low (no spending urge/Xmas/black friday gimmies, no large screen 4K teeVees (still on Sony CRT Wega,etc.). We typically drive our automobiles to the ground before consider replacing them (in my case: I may consider passing my fit along to my son(s) when they are old enough to drive, and that would be another 11 or so years.
(f) relationship is a give-n-take; build on the foundation of trust and respect. I've been married for over 13+yrs now, with kids and things like that.We used to have separate accounts until we got our house, and then we merged into 1 shared account. Bill paying, etc. are so much easier that way and we can watch over each other's spending habits (in a +ve way, not the other way round).
Of course: I also have additional personal income (sometimes I use that to supplement our family's primary income), such as turning wrench on cars, fixing vintage audio/stereo/tube equipments, tube audio designs; AF design stuff, etc.
Lastly, word of advice: if you cannot turn wrench on your car, better get one that requires less frequent servicing and with minimal parts and labour costs as well as down time.
VW doesn't fall well into this category, to say the least.
Q.
(a) DO NOT top off/refill any A/C systems with those trigger/gauge in a can deal. The sealant within will ruin the shop's recovery system (exp. the filters), causing them downtime and may even ended up billing you for that.
If it's only minor refrigerant leack, consider getting the R134A only cans.
Sometimes, you may be able to get R134A _ a few Ozs worth of top-up oil, all in the same package.
Unlike R12, R134A system is very finicky and delicate---doesn't take much to blow it's seals (overcharging) or ruining it completely.
When in doubt: spend the money and get it done in a shop.
(b) for locating A/C leaks, you should consider getting dye-only oil into the system (then use UV light to find the leak, usually in fluorescent yellow/green when leaked). Slightly off topic.
(c) Take others advice and stay away from VW if you have a functional(working fine) Honda to live with.
(d) automobiles are more like a disposible commodity where they will depreciate over time (some models depreciate less over time). On the other hand: house or property that you own shall, unless you are in a rather bad area (such as old Detroit, etc.) where the economy cannot sustain growth and normal activities, otherwise: your property shall appreciate over time. In my area: single detached housing has doubled in 10 yrs time, still appreciating by between 4~7% on an annual basis.... even cemetery appreciates in value....
(e)in a nation where credits were cheep to come by, most avg joes where fed with the illusions that so long as the banks/credit unions are able to loan them money (that they neither have the ability to pay back, nor would they have the means to do so properly), they would go out on a shopping spree: from skidoos to properties, to fancy clothes shopping (on credits)....They are fueled by the need of immediate self-gratifications (me wants this, me wants that, etc.) Most of these folks haven't learn their lessons RE: subprime mortgage bust back in 2008, and still continue to do so.... eventually lead to complete financial ruins.
Me? Me and my family's biggest debt so far is the mortgage. Other than my 9 yrs old fit (paid outright, 1st owner), my wifey's camry is a 10yrs old 2nd hand unit. We are financially disciplined in the sense that we keep our spending low (no spending urge/Xmas/black friday gimmies, no large screen 4K teeVees (still on Sony CRT Wega,etc.). We typically drive our automobiles to the ground before consider replacing them (in my case: I may consider passing my fit along to my son(s) when they are old enough to drive, and that would be another 11 or so years.
(f) relationship is a give-n-take; build on the foundation of trust and respect. I've been married for over 13+yrs now, with kids and things like that.We used to have separate accounts until we got our house, and then we merged into 1 shared account. Bill paying, etc. are so much easier that way and we can watch over each other's spending habits (in a +ve way, not the other way round).
Of course: I also have additional personal income (sometimes I use that to supplement our family's primary income), such as turning wrench on cars, fixing vintage audio/stereo/tube equipments, tube audio designs; AF design stuff, etc.
Lastly, word of advice: if you cannot turn wrench on your car, better get one that requires less frequent servicing and with minimal parts and labour costs as well as down time.
VW doesn't fall well into this category, to say the least.
Q.
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