How to make more horsepower in 1995 nissan truck ?
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Originally Posted By: lawnguy
I doubt any of my local shops will remove my cat. Removing my cat would def help,along with a flowmaster muffler.
I am absolutely not condoning this, but I bet in FL there are tons of shops that will weld in straight pipe. I see trucks like that ALL the time here. They get traded in like that often. If you go to a dealer or Firestone store or whatever, of course they won't get involved in that, but Jim Bob's Muffler and Brake probably will.
Price out a Walker direct fit for that truck. It might be cheaper than you think.
Towing killed the precats on my 2002 because it was under load so much of the time. Your truck's engine needs to work hard to tow, and you're towing regularly, so cats are suspect with low power as a symptom. Under load you're running richer...not good for the cats.
I doubt any of my local shops will remove my cat. Removing my cat would def help,along with a flowmaster muffler.
I am absolutely not condoning this, but I bet in FL there are tons of shops that will weld in straight pipe. I see trucks like that ALL the time here. They get traded in like that often. If you go to a dealer or Firestone store or whatever, of course they won't get involved in that, but Jim Bob's Muffler and Brake probably will.
Price out a Walker direct fit for that truck. It might be cheaper than you think.
Towing killed the precats on my 2002 because it was under load so much of the time. Your truck's engine needs to work hard to tow, and you're towing regularly, so cats are suspect with low power as a symptom. Under load you're running richer...not good for the cats.
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Originally Posted By: lawnguy
I know that more air in,along with more air out does build power.
Yes, but if the limiting factor is your displacement, camshaft, head and throttle body flow, then increasing the intake and exhaust flow potential isn't going to do anything
I know that more air in,along with more air out does build power.
Yes, but if the limiting factor is your displacement, camshaft, head and throttle body flow, then increasing the intake and exhaust flow potential isn't going to do anything
Leaf blower supercharging
For the doubters, YouTube shows before and afters on the dyno
For the doubters, YouTube shows before and afters on the dyno
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: quint
You probably did lose 30hp, because its supposed to be 20 degrees advanced. Unless you mean 20 degrees over the 20 it should have been at, meaning 40 BTDC at idle, when it should be 20...?
20 degrees advanced beyond where it should have been. I followed that up with "I set the timing to where it was supposed to be", but I apologize if it was still unclear. After fixing the timing, I could not get my '95 KA24E to ping any. It was really quite a tough little engine; I really enjoyed it. During really hot weather, that cooling fan clutch would engage and it'd really sap the power, but the A/C always blew cold. Tough little truck. One of the ones I wish I still had.
I'm surprised you were able to drive it at all that advanced..the knock sensor must have been pulling a lot of that timing out. I put mine up around 26-28 btdc once and it didn't drive well at all, knocked and pinged like crazy. I drove it less than a mile, put it back to 22 and made a mental note not to mess with the timing again.
Something to note, there seems to be a lack of consensus around the various forums on how to actually set the timing on the KA's. Some do it with the throttle position sensor (TPS) unplugged, others leave it plugged in. Some say it doesn't matter. I always do it with it unplugged, as there is a noticeable shift in the timing at idle between being plugged in and not being plugged in. My factory service manual clearly says to unplug it, but there are those on some forums adamant that it doesn't matter...I think they are driving around with some messed up timing.
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
I wonder if a k&n air filter will free up around 5hp ? THese filters are approx $50.
I tried a "cold air intake" on mine a long time ago, not only do I think it did not help any, I remember thinking that it might have detracted from the low end and mid-range power some. I have no idea if it really added or reduced power, I'm just going by what I felt while driving it. It made some nice noises at high rpms, but it definitely didn't add any excitement as far as power was concerned.
Originally Posted By: quint
You probably did lose 30hp, because its supposed to be 20 degrees advanced. Unless you mean 20 degrees over the 20 it should have been at, meaning 40 BTDC at idle, when it should be 20...?
20 degrees advanced beyond where it should have been. I followed that up with "I set the timing to where it was supposed to be", but I apologize if it was still unclear. After fixing the timing, I could not get my '95 KA24E to ping any. It was really quite a tough little engine; I really enjoyed it. During really hot weather, that cooling fan clutch would engage and it'd really sap the power, but the A/C always blew cold. Tough little truck. One of the ones I wish I still had.
I'm surprised you were able to drive it at all that advanced..the knock sensor must have been pulling a lot of that timing out. I put mine up around 26-28 btdc once and it didn't drive well at all, knocked and pinged like crazy. I drove it less than a mile, put it back to 22 and made a mental note not to mess with the timing again.
Something to note, there seems to be a lack of consensus around the various forums on how to actually set the timing on the KA's. Some do it with the throttle position sensor (TPS) unplugged, others leave it plugged in. Some say it doesn't matter. I always do it with it unplugged, as there is a noticeable shift in the timing at idle between being plugged in and not being plugged in. My factory service manual clearly says to unplug it, but there are those on some forums adamant that it doesn't matter...I think they are driving around with some messed up timing.
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
I wonder if a k&n air filter will free up around 5hp ? THese filters are approx $50.
I tried a "cold air intake" on mine a long time ago, not only do I think it did not help any, I remember thinking that it might have detracted from the low end and mid-range power some. I have no idea if it really added or reduced power, I'm just going by what I felt while driving it. It made some nice noises at high rpms, but it definitely didn't add any excitement as far as power was concerned.
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Originally Posted By: lawnguy
I wonder if a k&n air filter will free up around 5hp ? THese filters are approx $50.
No.
I wonder if a k&n air filter will free up around 5hp ? THese filters are approx $50.
No.
Originally Posted By: quint
I'm surprised you were able to drive it at all that advanced..the knock sensor must have been pulling a lot of that timing out.
As I recall, the SOHC engines (KA24E) didn't have a knock sensor. The DOHC engines (KA24DE) did. So with an E, you could crank the timing as much as you wished...as long as you could keep it from knocking.
It really did have good power. I could easily chirp a tire shifting into 2nd gear...with 30" LT tires.
I'm surprised you were able to drive it at all that advanced..the knock sensor must have been pulling a lot of that timing out.
As I recall, the SOHC engines (KA24E) didn't have a knock sensor. The DOHC engines (KA24DE) did. So with an E, you could crank the timing as much as you wished...as long as you could keep it from knocking.
It really did have good power. I could easily chirp a tire shifting into 2nd gear...with 30" LT tires.
Originally Posted By: dishdude
I think you need a bigger truck.
+1 for the above.
I think you need a bigger truck.
+1 for the above.
As an owner of a '97 Nissan truck, my recommendation would be to live with it or buy a bigger truck. They are reliable, but underpowered by today's standards.
You are not going to be able to bolt on enough power to make a difference, and still be reliable pulling your trailer everyday. This is assuming there is nothing broken on your truck currently.
You are not going to be able to bolt on enough power to make a difference, and still be reliable pulling your trailer everyday. This is assuming there is nothing broken on your truck currently.
many times the only correct answer was given here. buy a bigger more powerful truck. you can eaisly buy a used 1/2 ton for what you can sell your Nissan for. for every small truck owner looking for a bigger one-there is a bigger truck owner looking for a smaller one (in a misguided attempt to save gas usually)
Put a GM LS engine in it, A 5.3L/NV3500 would be a riot in that truck. Do burnouts while towing the trailer that gave your 4 cyl. such a hard time!
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
Years ago I put an MSD ignition on my mustang gt. Would having an MSD type of ignition help ?
It may help to replace the ignition coil with a performance one, it depends on how the OEM coil was made.
I'm not sure if having a MSD capacitor discharge box will help you either.
Even if you get some improvement, there are very few low cost upgrades.
I think a few companies still make headers for your truck, or they have old stock. I'm not sure how much those will benefit you.
Years ago I put an MSD ignition on my mustang gt. Would having an MSD type of ignition help ?
It may help to replace the ignition coil with a performance one, it depends on how the OEM coil was made.
I'm not sure if having a MSD capacitor discharge box will help you either.
Even if you get some improvement, there are very few low cost upgrades.
I think a few companies still make headers for your truck, or they have old stock. I'm not sure how much those will benefit you.
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Originally Posted By: super20dan
since this post is full of stupid non help answers. here is mine get a bigger truck. used 1/2 tons are cheap and plentiful.. a small 4 cyl working that hard isnt going to save any fuel
Yup. I had a 96' Chevy C1500 with a 5.7L that got 15-16 mpg city and 17-18 mpg highway (with 3.73 towing gears) and pulled anything I needed. I miss that truck...
since this post is full of stupid non help answers. here is mine get a bigger truck. used 1/2 tons are cheap and plentiful.. a small 4 cyl working that hard isnt going to save any fuel
Yup. I had a 96' Chevy C1500 with a 5.7L that got 15-16 mpg city and 17-18 mpg highway (with 3.73 towing gears) and pulled anything I needed. I miss that truck...
Get the truck tuned up. Do a compression and a vacuum reading. Low vac might be a restricted exhaust. I don't know what you haul, but if it is local. What is the big deal? Its a little old truck. Use it up. Next time get a bigger one.
Lose weight where possible, alloys to replace steels for example. A lighter flywheel and shorter gear set will help. Go through the ignition system and fuel system replacing anything that isn't optimum. Cold air feed to the factory airbox. 4 branch manifold into a decatted exhaust with absorption type silencers instead of baffled silencers.
When you do the cheap and easy stuff, the next step is head work, cams, higher CR, and a remap. Then look at nos and forced induction.
Or swap in an rb26 - you know it makes sense
When you do the cheap and easy stuff, the next step is head work, cams, higher CR, and a remap. Then look at nos and forced induction.
Or swap in an rb26 - you know it makes sense
Please tell us what your budget is, and what your capability is.
Cutting the Cat off and clamping in a tube would cost $10 ??
If you did it yourself.
Proberbly the biggest likely Bang for your buck.
Other than that, a diagnostic might tell you if the truck 'As it is' is falling short
And should be the first thing you try befor you spend $ on any modifications.
Cutting the Cat off and clamping in a tube would cost $10 ??
If you did it yourself.
Proberbly the biggest likely Bang for your buck.
Other than that, a diagnostic might tell you if the truck 'As it is' is falling short
And should be the first thing you try befor you spend $ on any modifications.
Just a quick scan looks like the Hardbody had a 3.5 or 3.9:1 rear ratio. I would change that.
Your gas mileage will tank, but you will be able to pull anything.
Anything you do boost-wise to a 20 year old KA24 is going to expose (and break) every weakness in that engine.
Your gas mileage will tank, but you will be able to pull anything.
Anything you do boost-wise to a 20 year old KA24 is going to expose (and break) every weakness in that engine.
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