choosing oil by the additives?

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gcb

gcb

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Apr 15, 2015
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socal
the oil 101 made me a believer that all oil is the same. so ever since i read it i only obsess about additives. which sucks because there is not much info on it.

here in socal the only gas with reasonable prices are Arco stations. so i always used castrol gtx on my cars. the cheaper one. with one run of the high mileage one ever few changes just because i led myself to believe it has more detergent and that it is good once in a while.

i usually change very close to advertised oil mileage life just because the oil disappears... it's not leaking anywhere so my guess is it's burning... but who knows?
21.gif


anyway. does more people here bothers to match oil and gas brand because of crazy believes about the additives? ... heck for all i know it might be that all companies just pack the oil from the same source and just came up with different marketing.

taking about marketing, Pennzoil almost won me over with this site but i can bring myself to pay 10~30% more on gas by going to shell stations.
 
Can't say I've ever heard or read of anyone matching their oil brand to the fuel they use. There's no correlation...at all.

I'm also not sure what you mean when you say that you change very close to the advertised oil mileage. Does Castrol GTX list a mileage that it's good for on the jug?

Also, if your engine is using oil, the why don't you just top it off? I knew a girl once who seemed to have your logic, but maybe not for the same reason. I asked how she knew she needed to change her oil, and she said, "because the oil is low on the dipstick." I asked how many miles since her last oil change and she had no idea, that she just checks it every so often and has it change when it reaches the bottom.

I wasn't sure whether to laugh or cry at her response. At least she was checking the oil, and though she was misinterpreting the dipstick, the oil was getting changed...
 
I don't waste time on specific oil additives in oil, citing that major national brand name motor oil pretty much sourced their additives from either Afton or Infineon.

Unless you are working for one or another (Additive company), otherwise, the additives in oil is typically a trade secret.

So long as the motor oil passed the latest battery of tests including valve train wear, deposits, volatility, etc. and still meets/exceeds the latest ILSAC-GF5/API SN certifications, then that should be good enough for me, running my gasoline emissioned automobile here in NA.

For Europeans, ACEA standards.

As to where your oil has gone (disappeared), simple answer is: if it hasn't form leaks and leak out, then it must have came out via combustion process, period.

There's no 3rd option (oil doesn't magically disappears)

Q.
 
Don't worry about using the same gas as the type of oil you use. There's no correlation.

I wouldn't pick an oil based on it's additive package because so many of them are similar. You could arguably say you like Moly or Titanium so much as an additive, that you want to use an oil that has it. But not all Moly is the same, and you don't know which type the manufacturer is using. Also, there can be additives that aren't tested for in an oil analysis, so looking at an oil analysis might not show the entire picture.

As long as you use a name brand/quality oil and gas, you should be fine.
 
Don't bother matching the motor oil you are using with a gas station, I doubt there is any correlation. I do however, have a preference on what kind of add pack I like in the oil I put in my vehicle. I prefer an oil with a moly and calcium based add pack vs ones with no moly and sodium.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
I don't waste time on specific oil additives in oil, citing that major national brand name motor oil pretty much sourced their additives from either Afton or Infineon.

Unless you are working for one or another (Additive company), otherwise, the additives in oil is typically a trade secret.

So long as the motor oil passed the latest battery of tests including valve train wear, deposits, volatility, etc. and still meets/exceeds the latest ILSAC-GF5/API SN certifications, then that should be good enough for me, running my gasoline emissioned automobile here in NA.

For Europeans, ACEA standards.

As to where your oil has gone (disappeared), simple answer is: if it hasn't form leaks and leak out, then it must have came out via combustion process, period.

There's no 3rd option (oil doesn't magically disappears)

Q.


Get quality oil that meets the specs of your vehicle. Don't worry about the additive package.
 
Does anybody have a list of which oils use which brand of additives?
I would assume most E-M oils use Infineum and most Chevron oils use Oronite etc...I'm wondering about some of the others?
 
Ive been running oils with NO moly as they are supposedly cleaner in ring land deposits. My piston skirts are moly coated - in fact most are these days.

Would LOVE to see "industry secret" cam wear comparisons on std SUB OHC NISSAN cam box cold start engine tests. I recall how ASHLAND in a open paper to the industry claimed their (Na package) formulation out-performed Xom Moly/Boron + (secret sauce) infinium package (in the grpIII?? base oils they were using) during a brief period through a basestock shortage.
 
Originally Posted By: gcb
anyway. does more people here bothers to match oil and gas brand because of crazy believes about the additives?

whiskey tango foxtrot?
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Ive been running oils with NO moly as they are supposedly cleaner in ring land deposits. My piston skirts are moly coated - in fact most are these days.

Would LOVE to see "industry secret" cam wear comparisons on std SUB OHC NISSAN cam box cold start engine tests. I recall how ASHLAND in a open paper to the industry claimed their (Na package) formulation out-performed Xom Moly/Boron + (secret sauce) infinium package (in the grpIII?? base oils they were using) during a brief period through a basestock shortage.


Do moly treated oil give more deposits at ring land area? I thought that, it was the contrary.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Additionally, whatever we know about a specific oil's additive package is quite limited.


this is exactly my point

and remember that both oil and gas have aditives such as detergent, stabilizers and what not. and they all mix in the same sludge in the engine. So why mix chemicals you know nothing about togheter?
smile.gif


my reasoning is that, if both the oil and the gas have the same chemical compound for stabilizer for example, mixing both of the same in the engine will result in better effect, than say, mixing two stabilizers that one only act on the oil the other only act on the gas.

but again, everything is just conjectures as we have no idea what are in those things.
laugh.gif
 
Was this a trolling post and are you just having a laugh at those who respond to it?
You did get a bunch of replies to what was a really silly question.
You should have posted this on April 1st.
 
If you are burining oil, the first thing you should do is replace the PCV valve with an OEM part, and check all the hoses connected to it.

Some engines, such as turbocharged Volvos have a flame trap, which replaces the PCV, and those systems need occasional replacement.

Some cars simply use a fixed orifice, and no parts need replacement, unless the engine has bad sludge.
 
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