Bubbling/melting under molding?
- Thread starter Rolomoto
- Start date
- Status
looks like the wheelarch plastic piece has been repaired before (thus the black goo).
Also: your wheelarch is rusted.
Also: your wheelarch is rusted.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
You're joking right? You don't know what rust is?
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
You're joking right? You don't know what rust is?
You'd think living in PA, he would
#northeastlife
You're joking right? You don't know what rust is?
You'd think living in PA, he would
#northeastlife
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
You're joking right? You don't know what rust is?
Yea I'm confused by this post as well.
It's an '01 in a rust-belt state.
What did you think was going happen?
And sadly, I don't think you're going to get that plastic back on.
You're joking right? You don't know what rust is?
Yea I'm confused by this post as well.
It's an '01 in a rust-belt state.
What did you think was going happen?
And sadly, I don't think you're going to get that plastic back on.
Dude..that's some wide-spread surface rust! You should take care of that first.
That is some pretty bad rust that will take some work to repair before you worry about the molding.
meh...entropy is the end of all.
Rustproofing prevents that.
Do you want the rust fixed or are you just looking for ways to cover it with the trim? If it's the latter, I would just use some RTV and stick it back on. Depending on how fast the rust is progressing, it might stay on for months or more.
Originally Posted By: pottymouth
Do you want the rust fixed or are you just looking for ways to cover it with the trim? If it's the latter, I would just use some RTV and stick it back on. Depending on how fast the rust is progressing, it might stay on for months or more.
I don't care about the trim. What's the best way to deal with that rust?
Thanks
Do you want the rust fixed or are you just looking for ways to cover it with the trim? If it's the latter, I would just use some RTV and stick it back on. Depending on how fast the rust is progressing, it might stay on for months or more.
I don't care about the trim. What's the best way to deal with that rust?
Thanks
Holy cow thats not bubbled thats shot. That rust goes half way up the quarter panel. Its a big job that requires fabrication and welding then filler and paint.
Man thats huge to fix properly, remove the rest of the trim and bumper then dig it all out then you see what you really have. Its not going to be pretty.
I guarantee its in the inner fender also.
Man thats huge to fix properly, remove the rest of the trim and bumper then dig it all out then you see what you really have. Its not going to be pretty.
I guarantee its in the inner fender also.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Rolomoto
What's the best way to deal with that rust?
In a case this bad, there's no fix available that's anywhere near being economically viable. As Trav says, you need to cut out all that rotted steel and weld in new. That's very time-intensive, and thus expensive.
Either live with the problem or get a new car.
What's the best way to deal with that rust?
In a case this bad, there's no fix available that's anywhere near being economically viable. As Trav says, you need to cut out all that rotted steel and weld in new. That's very time-intensive, and thus expensive.
Either live with the problem or get a new car.
Originally Posted By: KGMtech
meh...entropy is the end of all.
Entropy has had me by my bolas for a few years now.
meh...entropy is the end of all.
Entropy has had me by my bolas for a few years now.
Originally Posted By: Rolomoto
I don't care about the trim. What's the best way to deal with that rust?
Thanks
As has already been said, the actual damage is a lot more extensive than it looks. That's not just paint bubbling that can be sanded and touched up, that is serious rust through.
What is the value of the car? How much longer do you want to keep it? A body shop around here would want more than a grand to fix that. Maybe a lot more.
To do it yourself will require a level of skill that few DIYers have. You would have to cut a sickening amount of sheetmetal out, fabricate patch panels (looks like inner panels as well), properly weld them in then paint. Not a job for the faint of heart.
You could also try to just hack out the real loose stuff and then patch with a big slug of bondo or fiberglass. This will look like trash and not last very long.
Aneconomy car of that age? If it were mine I would RTV the trim back on and keep driving it until it got a lot worse. Keep in mind there's a good chance the other side has the same problem and there may be more rust damage hidden in other parts of the car.
I don't care about the trim. What's the best way to deal with that rust?
Thanks
As has already been said, the actual damage is a lot more extensive than it looks. That's not just paint bubbling that can be sanded and touched up, that is serious rust through.
What is the value of the car? How much longer do you want to keep it? A body shop around here would want more than a grand to fix that. Maybe a lot more.
To do it yourself will require a level of skill that few DIYers have. You would have to cut a sickening amount of sheetmetal out, fabricate patch panels (looks like inner panels as well), properly weld them in then paint. Not a job for the faint of heart.
You could also try to just hack out the real loose stuff and then patch with a big slug of bondo or fiberglass. This will look like trash and not last very long.
Aneconomy car of that age? If it were mine I would RTV the trim back on and keep driving it until it got a lot worse. Keep in mind there's a good chance the other side has the same problem and there may be more rust damage hidden in other parts of the car.
Last edited:
+1 for spraying with oil.
If you "hack out the real loose stuff" you will be rewarded with some holes, which are mother natures way of giving you access to spray the oil.
Your trim (which you should be able to wire/cable-tie/stick back on somehow) will cover up some off these holes, and/or you can sometimes use tape, foil or even Denzler tape (hessian impregnated with petroleum jelly, used by plumbers to seal leaks, in the UK, at least).
Many people use "bondo" or fibreglass for cosmetic repair. I think that's usually a waste of money, time and effort, and will probably speed up the rot, but it MIGHT be necessary to pass a safety inspection if there are sharp edges exposed.
This above approach assumes you can cultivate indifference to cosmetics. If you can't, you'll need a new car soonish.
If you "hack out the real loose stuff" you will be rewarded with some holes, which are mother natures way of giving you access to spray the oil.
Your trim (which you should be able to wire/cable-tie/stick back on somehow) will cover up some off these holes, and/or you can sometimes use tape, foil or even Denzler tape (hessian impregnated with petroleum jelly, used by plumbers to seal leaks, in the UK, at least).
Many people use "bondo" or fibreglass for cosmetic repair. I think that's usually a waste of money, time and effort, and will probably speed up the rot, but it MIGHT be necessary to pass a safety inspection if there are sharp edges exposed.
This above approach assumes you can cultivate indifference to cosmetics. If you can't, you'll need a new car soonish.
Last edited:
I did a hack job using JB Weld on mine, using cheap roof flashing to plug holes. Two years and it is holding up just fine. I suspect fiberglass can be stronger, but if it is not a floorboard then I am not sure the strength is required. Not for the work involved.
Sand down to bare metal, slather on the glue. Spray oil behind it when cured.
Sand down to bare metal, slather on the glue. Spray oil behind it when cured.
- Status
Similar threads
