Ok I am drop entire line of puro product include

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Ok I am drop entire line of puro product include my all time favorite motorcraft
frown.gif
, until puro complete fix their problem.

for the first 12 years, I finally want to trying Fram ( Tough Guard
blush.gif
)

between Fram TG or wix ( napa gold )

I have 2 mustang fox body, that I put less then 200 miles a year, im doing 1 year oil change on each. 10w30 dino oil. ( both fox using FL1A )

any one here driving a ford, that made same decision ? ( drop entire puro line for now til they fix the problem ).

Dont get me wrong here, I am a biggest fan of motorcraft oil filter, its one of the unique ADBV when you look inside, it look different from any oil filter I ever look inside, if my GM allow to use motorcraft I use it
smile.gif
, I still have brand new long version of FL820 before they cut down the height a little bit. I am the biggest fan of motorcraft oil filter, for now I feel just move on to different filter for now. I believe purolator will fix there problem some day. they was good filter. it use to be the filter of choice here remember ? best bang for the buck oil filter is purolator and pure 1... miss those day
eek.gif
 
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has anyone ever even seen a problem on a motorcraft?

seems kinda emo to me but buy what makes you happy of course.

I'm still planning on using the last (3) pure 1's in the garage.

but maybe Wix or fram(non-orange can) next.
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
has anyone ever even seen a problem on a motorcraft?

seems kinda emo to me but buy what makes you happy of course.

I'm still planning on using the last (3) pure 1's in the garage.

but maybe Wix or fram(non-orange can) next.


I think I saw a chart list where peoples post on what part # oil filter having problem, I think FL820s is on the list, I havent seen FL1A ( I alway use ) on this list yet.
 
I did (including all MCs), but not exactly for the tearing problem. I switched my fleet to FRAM Ultra for these reasons:

1. Security of wire backed media (Although I ran an MC for 10K and 15K, I do not trust the media to run that long anymore--I always had concerns about tearing even before the Purolator problems surfaced)
2. FRAM Ultra is more efficient than an MC (99.9%@20um versus 93.7%@20um)
3. Desire to run a filter actually designed for the OCIs that I run.
 
I have one more 820s left to use, but will probably go to the Ultra on my next oil change. Mainly because with the 2 dollar rebate, and using the Ultra for two oil changes, makes it cheaper than what I can get the 820s for. I do yearly oil changes, so I won't have to mess with the filter for two years. I still won't get anywhere near the 15000 miles that Fram says the Ultra is good for. But I don't think there is anything wrong with using the Motorcraft filter either.
 
If I do yearly oil change ( dino ) for the cars that put under 200 miles a years and mostly sitting in garage, TG or wix will server me well ? ( In my mind I really want to try the TG . I still havent get over the about carboard end cap.. it still haunting me like a virus...
09.gif
, mabe this time i just gonna say #*$&@( it and go with it.

@Bud , I have a beater 05 expy 5.4L same as your, i am droping FL820s too this time, even I just mainly use it for hauling stuff now.
 
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I will continue to use their Puro Classic oil filter elements for now. They are not known to be problematic. The P1s and Bosch have poor QC, as a result, will likely avoid using them.

None of the Purolator-made spin-on filters will be considered for the time being. I think everyone on this board understands the problems behind their product. No need to beat a dead horse, even though that dead horse has been beaten over and over and over and over...........
 
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
If I do yearly oil change (dino) for the cars that put under 200 miles a years and mostly sitting in garage, TG or wix will serve me well? (In my mind I really want to try the TG . I still haven't get over the about cardboard end cap.. it still haunting me like a virus...
09.gif
) Maybe this time I'm just gonna say #*$&@( it and go with it.
I see no reason why either of those would not serve you well; both WIX and FRAM would work--but for that low mileage OCI, the MC would be perfectly fine too (I have not seen any MCs tear at that mileage). For the FRAM, you should read a little about what the fiber end cap actually does--it may not be what you think it does. Note there are some filters that do not have end caps at all--only glue holds it together and some use felt on the ends. IMHO, the end cap combined with glue creates the support needed for the filter ends and it is also the sealing surface (in the form of a gasket) for the bypass valve and the ADBV to seal. I thought it was a poor design too at one time, until I bought a Hyundai that had a cartridge filter with felt on each end. It made me do a little research (because I immediately dismissed the felt ends caps as "junk") and then I saw what it did in relation to the overall filter. I then changed my thoughts about the Hyundai filter and subsequently about the fiber caps in the FRAM. With that said, I still do not like the FRAM Extra Guard (not because of the end caps), but because I think it needs more media (which I suppose, is the Tough Guard).
cheers3.gif
 
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
meanwhile planet earth still revolves around the sun. allegedly.
Some scientists were threatened with death for advocating a heliocentric solar system five or so centuries ago. We can't enter into a discussion about this subject here because religion is involved. Let's just leave it go at that with the understanding that trying to rewrite history doesn't work. Gentlemen, start you engines.
 
Originally Posted By: sir1900
I will continue to use their Puro Classic oil filter elements for now. They are not known to be problematic. The P1s and Bosch have poor QC, as a result, will likely avoid using them.

None of the Purolator-made spin-on filters will be considered for the time being. I think everyone on this board understands the problems behind their product. No need to beat a dead horse, even though that dead horse has been beaten over and over and over and over...........

Did you not see the white can of death link just under this one? Their has been just as many classics as p1 torn if not more.
 
I am currently using the MC FL500s because it seems built pretty decent (per Ford specs) and good enough for my intervals.

I see your point MetalSlug. I haven't kept up with the purolator issues as well as others, but from afar it seems like they're nonchalant about the tears.

Thanks to 2010_FX4 and his nice pics of the FL500s, I'm ok with using that one.
 
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
For the FRAM, you should read a little about what the fiber end cap actually does--it may not be what you think it does. Note there are some filters that do not have end caps at all--only glue holds it together and some use felt on the ends. IMHO, the end cap combined with glue creates the support needed for the filter ends and it is also the sealing surface (in the form of a gasket) for the bypass valve and the ADBV to seal. I thought it was a poor design too at one time, until I bought a Hyundai that had a cartridge filter with felt on each end. It made me do a little research (because I immediately dismissed the felt ends caps as "junk") and then I saw what it did in relation to the overall filter. I then changed my thoughts about the Hyundai filter and subsequently about the fiber caps in the FRAM. With that said, I still do not like the FRAM Extra Guard (not because of the end caps), but because I think it needs more media (which I suppose, is the Tough Guard).
cheers3.gif



Exactly, I too once thought that cardboard end caps meant [censored] filter. I also had an OCOD many years ago with a faulty (or no) ADBV so I wrote off Fram for many years. Then I also owned several vehicles with cartridge filters and Fram was the only thing I could find for them. I started to read up on their products and testing and found that the cardboard end caps were a non issue.

I still don't like OCOD's because of the lack of total media and nitrile ADBV, but I will use a Tough Guard without reservation as it is a solid filter.
 
Ill still use their air filters, but I have given up on MC. I was going to use an 820 in my dads truck, but that will most likely get replaced with a WIX.
 
Originally Posted By: tratman2000
Originally Posted By: sir1900
I will continue to use their Puro Classic oil filter elements for now. They are not known to be problematic. The P1s and Bosch have poor QC, as a result, will likely avoid using them.

None of the Purolator-made spin-on filters will be considered for the time being. I think everyone on this board understands the problems behind their product. No need to beat a dead horse, even though that dead horse has been beaten over and over and over and over...........


Did you not see the white can of death link just under this one? Their has been just as many classics as p1 torn if not more.


Oil filter element = cartridge type filters. Those are not known to have problems for the Classic line. As for the P1/Bosch, here is a link to a 3972 after 6k miles.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3635650/Bosch_3972_after_6000_miles
 
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
I did (including all MCs), but not exactly for the tearing problem. I switched my fleet to FRAM Ultra for these reasons:

1. Security of wire backed media (Although I ran an MC for 10K and 15K, I do not trust the media to run that long anymore--I always had concerns about tearing even before the Purolator problems surfaced)
2. FRAM Ultra is more efficient than an MC (99.9%@20um versus 93.7%@20um)
3. Desire to run a filter actually designed for the OCIs that I run.


The Ultra is quoted currently as 99%+ @20 microns but used to show 99.5% although that is currently not posted any more.

To me that means some of the filters hit 99.5% but some are probably between 99.1-99.4% depending on the model. Splitting hairs I know haha
 
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Ok I am drop entire line of puro product include my all time favorite motorcraft
frown.gif
, until puro complete fix their problem.



How do we know Purolator hasn't fixed their problem already?
They surely aren't going to announce a fix. Once they do, then thousands and thousands of old stock in our garages and basements are headed back to the store, right after we swap their new filters in the box for the old ones.

C'mon..... they will NEVER announce a fix.
 
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Ok I am drop entire line of puro product include my all time favorite motorcraft
frown.gif
, until puro complete fix their problem.

for the first 12 years, I finally want to trying Fram ( Tough Guard
blush.gif
)

between Fram TG or wix ( napa gold )

I have 2 mustang fox body, that I put less then 200 miles a year, im doing 1 year oil change on each. 10w30 dino oil. ( both fox using FL1A )

any one here driving a ford, that made same decision ? ( drop entire puro line for now til they fix the problem ).

Dont get me wrong here, I am a biggest fan of motorcraft oil filter, its one of the unique ADBV when you look inside, it look different from any oil filter I ever look inside, if my GM allow to use motorcraft I use it
smile.gif
, I still have brand new long version of FL820 before they cut down the height a little bit. I am the biggest fan of motorcraft oil filter, for now I feel just move on to different filter for now. I believe purolator will fix there problem some day. they was good filter. it use to be the filter of choice here remember ? best bang for the buck oil filter is purolator and pure 1... miss those day
eek.gif



Why are you dropping purolator again? Did you personally experience a torn filter, or are you making this decision based on what others on the internet are saying? Bonjour...
crazy.gif
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis

The Ultra is quoted currently as 99%+ @20 microns but used to show 99.5% although that is currently not posted any more.


I've always seen it listed as 99+% @ greater than (which is essentially "@") 20 microns, never 99.5% on Fram's website.
 
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