Severe Sludge - Saab 2.3L

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I'd love to see some cut open pics of filters after 300-500 mile OCI's with cheap Supertech oil, or a "good cleaning" oil like PYB. I doubt you'll see much of anything with those short OCI's. A HDEO for a few 2,000 mile OCI's would be a better way to go, if adding a cleaner to the oil scares you. Now a 300-400 mile oci with a cleaner like Rislone concentrate and PYB or Supertech synthetic might be a better idea than using either of those two oils alone for such a short interval.

While the mechanic had the pan down a cleanup of the area would have been a good idea.
 
If there is sludge in the oil pan, there's likely sludge in the head too. Pull the valve cover off and inspect/clean as needed.
 
DEmar,
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
While the mechanic had the pan down a cleanup of the area would have been a good idea.

I think in the original post there is something about "a box of engine cleaner"....
 
I have a 1999 VW passat 1.8, also a known sludger. While I don't believe mine was THAT bad (I also never opened it up) it has visible buildup through the valve cover and the oil would be diesel-dark after a few hundred miles. The approach I took is to not change on a set interval, but just change it whenever it got dark. Took a lot of 100-500 mile oil changes but now it's clean, only think I can see left is a bit of varnish. Again, just a visual inspection through the oil fill hole in the valve cover.

I used rotella T6 for my endevours, it's and has a great additive pack. FWIW I ran an engine clean after the oil started to clean up and change color as I would expect, didn't get anything out of it.

IMO your best bet is to stick to frequent OCIs and use the biggest filter you can fit such that it catches everything.
 
tezzzas said:
I would go to wallymart, get some cheap supertech syn and peraluator oil filter, cheapest stuff you can get. You can get three oil changes for like 50 bucks. Use them for short OCI, cut the cans, and see how the sludge goes (/quote]

this^^
 
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I have a 2003 9-5 Aero with 203k+ miles. The valve cover was recently off while my mechanic (local independent Saab specialist) was working on an oil leak. He remarked at how clean and sludge-free everything looked. The oil leak turned out to be due to over pressurizing on account of one of the PCV hoses deteriorating and clogging up.

I've done 5k OCIs since the car was new, usually with Mobil 1 5W-40 TDT, but also Rotella 5W-40 and Syntec 5W-40 from time to time. I typically use PureOne filters of the regular size. I have also done AutoRX cleanings at 50k, 115k, and 165k. This has worked for me.

I am not entirely convinced of the cleaning properties of any particular oils, and I'm not sure what a handful of short OCIs would accomplish other than giving you an opportunity to cut up filters for inspection. If it wasn't starving from the build up on the pickup screen before, why would it start now that it's been cleaned up? I also don't think fooling around with the exhaust system is necessary - FWIW my car's exhaust is entirely original aside from the short flex pipe.

My vote would be to pick your preferred engine cleaning additive (AutoRX, LC20, Kreen, etc) and use according to the directions for a couple cleaning cycles. As noted I've used AutoRX in the past, not for any particular problem but as preventative maintenance on this sludge-prone engine. As I was not in a rush I went with AutoRX due to it's purported slow/safer cleaning action as alluded to by one of the other posters. I used 10W-40 conventional with shorter OCIs of 3k for the cleaning and rinse cycles.

jeff
 
Oil will clean. Synthetic will help prevent.

Change your oil at 1k, 2k, 3k, 4k, and then every 5k or 6 months, whichever comes 1st. Check oil level regularly and top off as needed.

Stick with full synthetic. Vary the brand/grades. 0w40, 5w40, 10w40, euro 0w30....

Stick with the oversized filter and see if there is room for something bigger. PH8a??

Coolant, thermostat, rad cap???

Peel and stick heat insulate the oil pan.

http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/heat-shield-and-thermal-barriers/hp-sticky-shield

Hollow out the catalytic.

I see no need for engine cleaning products since newer oil can clean. If you must, wait until you've completed a few oil changes.
 
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Stick with full synthetic.

+1

Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
insulate the oil pan.

+1

Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Hollow out the catalytic.

A bad idea IMO. Leave the converter in-place and intact as long as it is functioning properly.
 
Geesh, what a shame. I owned an 85 900T with the 2L original SAAB motor. Sold it after 14yrs and 256,000mi. Ran on M1 extended as well. No issues. The original turbocharger even lasted 205,000mi. and that was with no water cooled jacket as well.

Too bad for SAAB...
 
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