350 vortec lifters (and other maintanence items)

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HI Everybody,

I just picked up a 99 suburban with 202k miles on it that I'm 99% sure has the intake gasket problems that these vortec 350's are famous for. The previous owner (who I know well and has owned the suburban since 02 when he got it with 50k miles on it) said that it started overheating and when he poped the hood there was a lot of antifreeze coming down the passenger side valve cover. From what I can tell the quick disconnect heater hose is not leaking so I'm suspecting that it's the intake gasket (he says he's never replaced it so at 202k miles it's well over due to be replaced! I'm thinking I got lucky and the antifreeze never made it into the cylinders as the oil still looks perfect!

I'm currently making my list of other things to replace while I'm pulling it apart since he's done very little to it other than normal maintanence in the 202k miles (oil changes every 5k with convential oil). Most things I'm pretty straight on, however I was debating replacing the lifters while I have the lower intake plenium off since I'll pretty much already be down to them. I was wondering what your guys opinion is on if they should be replaced are not with 202k miles on them. I was also wondering what brand lifters you guys would recommend for this motor. The only ones I've really found so far have been the sealed performance from Advance Auto Parts. I was also wondering if I should replace anything else relating to the valve train (rockers, retaining nuts, pushrods, cam, etc...). This engine was running fine up to the point it started overheating and spitting out antifreeze so anything I'm replacing is strictly because of the 202k miles and not because of problems.

I'm also going to go ahead and upgrade the fuel system with the newer MPFI setup linked below to hopefully avoid fueling problems in the future.
http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-217-3029-O...vortec+350+mpfi

I'm definitely replacing the following additional parts (is there anything else that you guys would replace as preventive maintanence that's easier while I'm pulling the intake manifold)?
-Distributor Cap
-Distributor Roter
-spark plugs
-spark plug wires
-upper and lower radiator hoses as well as all heater hoses

I was also curious on your guys opinion on how long the transmission might last, I know the 4l60e isn't the strongest transmission in the world and this one has never been touched except for regular flushes. I'm definitely going to drop the pan and replace the filter very shortly after I get the suburban back on the road! Is there anything else I should look out for?

Thanks for any information you guys can give me!
 
Having a '99 5.7 which had the LIM leak, I have quite a bit of experience. I wouldn't spend a dime on anything until I seen the results of a UOA. At 202k and all original, that engine can already be gone. Why throw good money at bad? You said it overheated. that ain't good. You also don't know the history prior to 50k. You're putting the cart in front of the horse. UOA, pressure test, compression test, maybe scope the cylinders, check for stored codes.

There's more important things you need to be doing than changing caps and rotors. The transmission is the least of your worries right now too.

Your current plan sounds like a phenomenal waste of money.
 
I'd replace the valve stem seals while you're in there. For sure.

Make sure you use AC Delco parts for things like lifters if you're going to do that, spark plugs, and ignition parts.

I've had good luck with Maxlife ATF (with a bottle of LubeGard Red) in my older Chevy tranny. I'm sure yours will love it too. In fact, I had the seal leaking fluid into the transfer case when I bought it, and it cured that problem as well.

Is the Suburban 4 wheel drive? If so, I'm sure your front end is ready to be rebuilt (ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman/idler arms, etc. etc.)

Lastly, I'd drop the rear differential cover and replace the gear oil as well. Get a new gasket when you're buying new fluid.
 
In my '99 5.3L I have recently done the following.

-Dropped tranny pan, replaced the gasket and added fresh MaxLife ATF
-New fuel filter
-New AC Delco Plugs & Wires
-Cleaned MAF sensor
-Cleaned throttle body
-Replaced rear diff fluid (2 wheel drive) and new RTV gasket
-Replaced the two rear axle gaskets which were leaking
-Replaced the thermostat
-Replaced the water pump
-Flushed the radiator with DexCool
-Fresh Mobil 1 and Delco oil filter
-New rotors and duralast ceramic pads all around

Just ideas of what I've done to keep my old girl on the road

Thanks,
George
 
+1! LOL!! Replace the valve seals while ignoring a potentially cracked head! Install these seals before or after replacing those hydraulic roller lifters?

Originally Posted By: qdeezie
Originally Posted By: Phishin
I'd replace the valve stem seals while you're in there. For sure.


+1
 
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
+1! LOL!! Replace the valve seals while ignoring a potentially cracked head! Install these seals before or after replacing those hydraulic roller lifters?


What is wrong with you? Seriously. That old seasoned Chevy 350 is most likely fine. If it's not drinking antifreeze, I'd go ahead and tune her up.

Nothing runs worse longer than a 350. Mine is near the top of the heap. And she keeps on rollin' down the road.

Sure, it's a gamble, but when you're dealing with a $3000 truck, you're always gambling. Why spend all kinds of money trying to diagnosis a problem, when a new GM crate engine is less than $2k.

Everything could be just fine with the truck, he spends $$$$$$ on fixing and maintenance on the items he wishes, and the spider could take a dump on him tomorrow....it could throw a rod.....the tranny could puke.

This is why, I only fix what's broken on my truck. I just keep running her until she's finally dead. Then I either go to the junk yard or buy a new GM crate engine for $1700. I'm not chasing anything.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys.

I really think the engine is ok, it barely overheated (like only about 3/4 of the way up the gauge and no boiling over. The previous owner is a trusted friend so he'd have no reason to lie to me! He said he never noticed any change in the way the engine was running (it was still good and smooth it just started getting hot). Once he got out and raised the hood he saw the coolant running down the passenger valve cover and towed the suburban back to his house. The oil has not been changed and looks perfect, absolutely no signs of coolant in it!

I'm planning on running a compression test this weekend to help determine the condition of the cylinders before I do any other maintanence. I'm also definitely planning on replacing all driveline fluids right after I get it back running. I figure this is a separate process and I'd like to see the engine run again before I put the money in replacing all the driveline fluids. This is a 4wd suburban so it's got a lot of fluids to replace, haha!

I'll definitely look into replacing the valve stem seals, that does sound like a good plan with this kind-of mileage!
 
Originally Posted By: Phishin
What is wrong with you? Seriously. That old seasoned Chevy 350 is most likely fine. If it's not drinking antifreeze, I'd go ahead and tune her up.


I can ask the same from you. Seriously. At this point no one knows if it's leaking coolant. That's why you test.

Quote:
Nothing runs worse longer than a 350. Mine is near the top of the heap. And she keeps on rollin' down the road.


So why advocate the OP spend any money? Why not drive it as is?

Quote:
Sure, it's a gamble, but when you're dealing with a $3000 truck, you're always gambling. Why spend all kinds of money trying to diagnosis a problem, when a new GM crate engine is less than $2k.


There is no gamble. How do you know what he paid for the truck? There's no real money involved diagnosing. He can rent a pressure tester. Scopes that connect to a laptop go for $20 on Amazon. Codes can be checked for free. A UOA is $25.

I'm completely on board with the crate engine. I was even going to suggest that in my original reply. That all depends on the condition of the rest of the truck.


Quote:
Everything could be just fine with the truck, he spends $$$$$$ on fixing and maintenance on the items he wishes, and the spider could take a dump on him tomorrow....it could throw a rod.....the tranny could puke.


We won't know if everything if fine until a proper diagnosis is complete. That's why we test.

Quote:
This is why, I only fix what's broken on my truck. I just keep running her until she's finally dead. Then I either go to the junk yard or buy a new GM crate engine for $1700. I'm not chasing anything.


You run your until it dies but tell the OP to change valve seals which may very well be serviceable? Makes no sense.
 
Coolant leaking into the oil is called "silent death" for a reason. I bought my '99 off my original-owner neighbor friend. The oil looked perfect. First thing I did was get a UOA. Go to the UOA sub-forum and look for my post, "What Coolant In Oil Looks Like".

Seriously, if you are planning to change all of these crazy things, just buy a crate engine and swap it out over a weekend. Everything of importance will be new and you'll have a warranty to boot. Geez, people!

Originally Posted By: andyvr4
Thanks for all the advice guys.

I really think the engine is ok, it barely overheated (like only about 3/4 of the way up the gauge and no boiling over. The previous owner is a trusted friend so he'd have no reason to lie to me! He said he never noticed any change in the way the engine was running (it was still good and smooth it just started getting hot). Once he got out and raised the hood he saw the coolant running down the passenger valve cover and towed the suburban back to his house. The oil has not been changed and looks perfect, absolutely no signs of coolant in it!

I'm planning on running a compression test this weekend to help determine the condition of the cylinders before I do any other maintanence. I'm also definitely planning on replacing all driveline fluids right after I get it back running. I figure this is a separate process and I'd like to see the engine run again before I put the money in replacing all the driveline fluids. This is a 4wd suburban so it's got a lot of fluids to replace, haha!

I'll definitely look into replacing the valve stem seals, that does sound like a good plan with this kind-of mileage!
 
Lots of good info here. I would also suggest that if I was replacing the lifters I would change the cam too, otherwise leave the lifters alone.
 
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
+1! LOL!! Replace the valve seals while ignoring a potentially cracked head! Install these seals before or after replacing those hydraulic roller lifters?

Originally Posted By: qdeezie
Originally Posted By: Phishin
I'd replace the valve stem seals while you're in there. For sure.


+1


Apparently, you are a little out of date with the overheating thing. Overheating is in no way a good thing, but it is no way the imminent death of an engine.

Using VALVOLINE wouldn't be a bad option either once everything is buttoned back up.
 
Oh, brother. And people call me a troll.

Originally Posted By: qdeezie
Apparently, you are a little out of date with the overheating thing. Overheating is in no way a good thing, but it is no way the imminent death of an engine.

Using VALVOLINE wouldn't be a bad option either once everything is buttoned back up.
 
I have been through this twice with the same setup. Update the fuel spider as you said. In my mind the only things i would do because there cheap is change the valve seals, valve cover gaskets and basic tune up.

Both my engines were absolutely fine. One i didn't catch until the lifter was actually sticking before i figured out what was going on. I would do the tune up after the job is done though. The platinum plugs from AC delco are a little pricey and i think i would rather see if the job goes well first.

Both my truck have over 225K miles on the original transmissions. I am good about changing fluid though. Used mostly M1 synthetic on one and super tech Dex 3 on the other.
 
If you're going to go replacing all the valvetrain components just do a full rebuild. I would do nothing but fix the coolant leak then see how it runs. I've seen many 350's meet their death due to the intake gasket allowing coolant into the oil and any overheat can cause head gasket or cracking issues. Sure a 350 is tough but lets not be silly here, it's quite fragile compared to the Ford 300 or the Dodge slant 6.
 
Thanks a lot for all of your guys suggestions. Based off what you've said and the fact that it doesn't appear the lifters in these engines typically give problems I'll probably hold off for now and make sure everything runs ok after replacing the intake gasket (I'm still going to do cap, rotor, plugs, etc... because I've got to remove them anyway to do the intake gasket and compression test the motor!

Hopefully by tomorrow evening I'll be able to perform the compression test and have a better idea of the condition of the motor!
 
Many, many, many people with Chevy trucks often mistakenly think they hear a ticking lifter or rod knock....when in actuality, it's a loose or cracked flexplate/flywheel.
 
Originally Posted By: andyvr4
Thanks a lot for all of your guys suggestions. Based off what you've said and the fact that it doesn't appear the lifters in these engines typically give problems I'll probably hold off for now and make sure everything runs ok after replacing the intake gasket (I'm still going to do cap, rotor, plugs, etc... because I've got to remove them anyway to do the intake gasket and compression test the motor!

Hopefully by tomorrow evening I'll be able to perform the compression test and have a better idea of the condition of the motor!

Look carefully at all the spark plugs. If one looks much cleaner than the others, it may be steam cleaned by sucking antifreeze through the intake.
 
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