Ford Racing filters vs regular Motorcraft

[Skeet6]

Since I have been buying Ford Racing stuff here and there to upgrade my Grabber Orange PP 2009 Mustang (4.0)(Hurst short throw FR shifter, FR Borla touring exhaust, FR Cold Air kit/tuner, etc... I found the Ford Racing version of the FL-820S. (CM-6731-FL820) Any in the know out there about it's differences, if any?
Heck, it has a cool FR sticker on it, so there's that, I put one on this spring.
My 09 has the shortest OCIs of any of my cars. (I drive it about 2-250 miles a year), it gets fresh PU every spring, and no, it doesn't race, but I do take it to the racetrack to watch race cars.

Mike B

 

[CT8]

You may or may not ever see the advantage of the filter during the life of the engine at 250 miles per year and a once a year oil change the price is insignificant. Use them they are nice filters.

 

[qdeezie]

This may or may not bother you, but I noticed that there are no flutes on the top of the FR FL820s, so if you use a cap wrench to remove your current filter, you'll have to move to something else to remove it.

 

[Kruse]

Without digging through the Motorsport catalog to look it up, normally the filtering ability is less, the flow ability is greater and the burst pressure rating is higher, as compared to a regular filter.

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: Kruse
Without digging through the Motorsport catalog to look it up, normally the filtering ability is less, the flow ability is greater and the burst pressure rating is higher, as compared to a regular filter.


Yes this is also what I remember from the last time I checked.

 

[ShotGun429]

Thicker Housing on the Ford Racing filter, We sell both here, Stay with the std Motorcraft if I was you.

 

[camperbob]

Originally Posted By: Kruse
Without digging through the Motorsport catalog to look it up, normally the filtering ability is less, the flow ability is greater and the burst pressure rating is higher, as compared to a regular filter.


This is usually the case with most all "Racing filters" Couldn't have said it better. Most high pressure pumps with burry the gauge with a thick racing oil and cold start. 80-100psi. The cans are generally thicker, better gasket design, but less media to flow better. They are definitely made for the 1-3 race oil change, and not a daily driver

 

[MetalSlug]

Originally Posted By: camperbob
Originally Posted By: Kruse
Without digging through the Motorsport catalog to look it up, normally the filtering ability is less, the flow ability is greater and the burst pressure rating is higher, as compared to a regular filter.


This is usually the case with most all "Racing filters" Couldn't have said it better. Most high pressure pumps with burry the gauge with a thick racing oil and cold start. 80-100psi. The cans are generally thicker, better gasket design, but less media to flow better. They are definitely made for the 1-3 race oil change, and not a daily driver


is this why some high end performing engine just run regular fram or STP oil filter from autozone. just come cheap oil filter, mabe for better flow ?

 

[camperbob]

Its possible. The only high end racing engines that I have experience with are in Circle track to 8000 rpm. At one time we were not allowed an external oil filter, or a dry sump system, so was used Fram HP4's. Very heavy can construction, and minimal filter. Our engines were spec'ed to run 50wt oil, so startups made tremendous pressure. The better the flow, the less pressure is held in the can. A Fram HP4 was the only filter I had good luck with on a high revving GM smallblock. Ive had blow O-rings on WIX Racing filters in the past. IMO K&N oil filters are more of a brand than performance, so I wont use them.

If you were able to race with lighter oil, the filter pressure would indeed drop as well.

 

[MetalSlug]

I see it now. It made my view whole different now.