Stuck auto trans. pan, 3.8 chrysler

[callbay]

2000 Chrysler Town & Country mini van. 3.8 with 131,000 miles. New to me and I don't know it's history.

Got the bolts off the pan but the pan is really stuck. Looks like gasket sealing material rather than a gasket.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

[Quest]

https://www.google.ca/search?q=oil+pan+g...wQsAQ&dpr=1

 

[spasm3]

I would get a piece of 2x4 and hold it against the pan, tap on the wood with a hammer until it loosens. I would resist the temptation to pry in between the pan and block.

 

[Oldmoparguy1]

ops..

 

[Oldmoparguy1]

It's glued on. I have used a small thin pry to carefully break the seal. Done carefully, it won't bend the pan. Worse case, dorman makes a replacement pan.

Good luck,

Wayne

 

[Falken]

A rubber mallet with medium smacks on corners until the black rtv silicone separates.

If that doesn't work an old sharp thin knife. Use rtv silicone to reseal pan anyway.

Just don't bend the pan and distort it.

 

[qdeezie]

Here's another thought.........

If the vehicle is propped up and you have a hair dryer or heat gun, apply a little bit of heat to it before following any of the suggestions that have already been made. A high output shop lamp (the ones you can literally feel the heat from) would heat it up pretty good too if you have one of those.

 

[Merkava_4]

Give it a tap on the side of the pan. Be ready to catch it!

 

[paulo57509]

You need something similar to this:

http://www.toolplanet.com/product/Lisle-50190-Gasket-Separator/pullers-removers

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Does that pan have a drain plug?

If not, make sure to get a replacement pan that has a drain plug. Makes things easier

 

[doitmyself]

Would a quality putty knife work to cut the sealant without damaging the surfaces???

 

[meep]

I've been here twice. You need to approach it as a commitment. No amount of hammering helped me on the 3.8 in my sig. I finally deformed a small corner of the pan, worked a screwdriver in, and pried. Once it actually started, it popped right off. The pan had a small section that was warped, maybe 3/8". I put that on a flat surface and hammered it straight. I pried in a manner that the edge, not sealing surface, of the transmission took the force, so no issues there. I had, in my mind, decided that it was ok if the pan had to be replaced. Reinstalled with rtv and no leaks.

Only issue I had, buy the genuine mopar filter. so many aftermarket filters won't properly "cling" to the valve body like they should, falling off as you try to lift the pan. this risks poor sealing, in addition to frustrating assembly.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Would a quality putty knife work to cut the sealant without damaging the surfaces???


Exactly how I would do it.

The Lisle tool looks nice though

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: paulo57509
You need something similar to this:

http://www.toolplanet.com/product/Lisle-50190-Gasket-Separator/pullers-removers


Amazon has reviews for it here:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-50190-Gasket-Separator/dp/B00396DMUM

 

[dishdude]

Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: paulo57509
You need something similar to this:

http://www.toolplanet.com/product/Lisle-50190-Gasket-Separator/pullers-removers


Amazon has reviews for it here:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-50190-Gasket-Separator/dp/B00396DMUM


Yes. this is what you need. The RTV Black that Chrysler uses from the factory makes it very difficult to remove the pan for the first time. Fel-pro makes and the aftermarket filter kits include a gasket which will make the next pan drop a lot easier.

It's a little easier to get off when the vehicle is on a lift, lying on your back doesn't give you a lot of leverage and room to work on the pan.

 

[andyd]

I use a sharpened wall paper scraper and a masons block chisel to open stuff like this. The block chisel is soft and can tuned up with a file. Ibought it to open up the front hubs on my Grand Wags' when I replaced U -Joints etc.