can additives make a worn & hurt engine driveable

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I think so.

Cracked heads, cracked block?. Cylinder scoring. puking rear main. Real bad blowby.

I've put 6 or 7 cans of various coolant stop leak in so far and I think the coolant consumption has finally stopped. I've found you have to be persistent. Just keep driving it and adding coolant and more stop leak.

Adding Lucas oil stabilizer seems to help blowby, consumption and leaking. I picked up some Lucas oil stop leak to see if that will do any better than the bars leaks rear main did.

The biggest thing to reduce the rear main seal leakage is to leave the oil cap off and just let it puff out. It's the positive pressure in the crankcase that's forcing oil past the main.

The Lucas instructions say it can be used up to 100% to mask badly worn engines. My plan is to get a gallon at Walmart and just keep adding until it behaves.

I took the car out on a 150 mile drive today and it behaved itself fairly well so I'm encouraged. There's absolutely no smoke out the exhaust.
 
You know me better than that. I'm dead serious. Here's the deal. The wife is not going to let me rebuild this thing right now. I've got yard work, house fixin, yada yada.

So it either sits or I experiment and drive it.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
You know, April fools day was yesterday...

Yeah. No kidding.

Lucas oil stabilizer is just thick oil without additives. So, you're just thickening and diluting the additives in the oil you've got now. If you want thicker oil, then use it. Buy some Valvoline Maxife 10w-40 to start. Do not add any Lucas products.
 
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
[Maxife 10w-40 to start. Do not add any Lucas products.


It's more dire than that. We're talking 40W-70 and no one stocks that.

We can start another debate on whether additives are even a player in situations like this.

Oh, I forgot. I've also dumped some Restore in.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
The wife is not going to let me rebuild this thing right now. I've got yard work, house fixin, yada yada.


Trade cars with the wife.
 
Well with cracked heads and block I don't think it matters much at this point. Do what ya need to do in order to limp it to it's next motor

Check PCV system and crank case vents in regards to crank case pressure.

I hope you got that car for VERY cheap!
 
Lucas makes an SAE 70 plus that would help and also has additives in it so you won't have to worry about sludge.

I would try Maxlife 20w50 with liqui moly motor oil saver first.

http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-10262-Racing-Motor-Oil/dp/B002MSEGT4

othi7a.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Well with cracked heads and block I don't think it matters much at this point. Do what ya need to do in order to limp it to it's next motor

Check PCV system and crank case vents in regards to crank case pressure.

I hope you got that car for VERY cheap!


Right, you get it. This is a toy. It's not needed to get to work. I've got a AAA gold card which is good for a free 100mi flatbed.

There's way more smoke coming out of the filler hole than any pvc line can suck. It's probably trying but being overwhelmed. I just picked up a vent replacement for the oil cap at AZ so at least it has something covering the hole.
 
How difficult is it to just replace the engine? If it really is as bad as you describe then just get a good quality remanufactured engine swap it out. No miracle in a can needed, no worrying about making it back home, etc.
By the time you factor in all the money you are spending on junk additives hoping to cure the problem, and all the time you are wasting chasing issues that can't be fixed by a can or plastic jug, you could have a significant portion of the replacement engine paid for.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
[Maxife 10w-40 to start. Do not add any Lucas products.


It's more dire than that. We're talking 40W-70 and no one stocks that.

We can start another debate on whether additives are even a player in situations like this.

Oh, I forgot. I've also dumped some Restore in.





Wonder if you could get this stuff shipped to you?

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products-categs.php?id_categ=1&id_viscosity=22
 
sounds like 20-50 mixed with gear oil is basically what you need.

this thing is on its last legs, obviously.

RESTORE is a great last-ditch product in a can as it cokes up in scored cylinder walls when exposed to heat. It does blow out however if you get on it hard, then you have to let it build up again for a few drive cycles.

Depending on the make and model, this sounds like a good candidate for an autozone core exchange, especially if you can get a long block and not have to also swap heads. It sounds gone enough that I wouldn't bother with a local rebuild since the heads will have to be swapped anyway and the block milled/bored alot, possibly sleeved. It's a sore engine by the sound of it.

just be sure to not compromise your safety. thrown rod at the wrong time, like when pulling into traffic, could be dangerous.
 
btw-- what kind of car/engine?

some vehicles have weaker oil pumps than others. a thick oil like this will cause more strain on the pump. some shaft-driven pumps have seen shaft failure from use. too thick, and too much morning rpm, and snap. but at least you'd get an oil light and a warning before things lock up....
 
As mentioned, check the PCV and the breather element. If that checks out, go with an inexpensive oil and run it till it stops. Additives cannot add metal to worn internal engine parts.
 
This is my Trans Am Smokey & Bandit limited edition 1 of 213 made. An yes I got it for a steal. It's a miracle I even got the thing running.

A replacement engine will devalue the overall car. I checked and the engine vin matches.

I did have the heads off and replaced with used of the same date code. I didn't have them professionally checked for cracks though. The ones I took off seemed to be sealed up pretty well with the K&W copper glass sealer. They were cracked right between the valves. It was the valves that weren't sealing though, the reason for 0 compression on 1 cylinder and 60psi on others.

But I put everything back together and it still consumes coolant. So I don't know what's going on. There were no obvious cylinder cracks. If I'm lucky its a matter of a warped block deck that can be shaved when I do take it out. The head gaskets are really thick so you'd think they'd compensate for some warpage.

The cylinders were scratched up and had some corrosion rings. This car probably sat with water in the cylinders for a time. Interestingly I had run restore. I took a drill with a 4" wire wheel which fits the cylinder perfectly and cleaned it up. The scratches and corrosion were much more pronounced afterward. This makes me think the restore did its job filling in.

Anyway as it sits it can take me on a nice ride down the cape and that's not bad for now.

I'm going to continue to experiment with it.

Sine this is an oil and additive site I thought I'd come out of the closet, fess up and maybe something can be leaned from what I'm doing.
 
The witches brew in the crankcase right now

M1 TDT
bars leaks rear main
restore
0w-40 synpower
1 bottle Lucas oil stabilizer
1 bottle Lucas oil stop leak

I added the stop leak this afternoon which is very thick just like the stabilizer. Drove around for 15 min. It idles noticeably slower now to the point of stalling in idle.

I'm guessing the thick oil is adding enough drag to the system to slow the idle?
 
Originally Posted By: bvance554
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
The wife is not going to let me rebuild this thing right now. I've got yard work, house fixin, yada yada.


Trade cars with the wife.


Or trade her in for a newer model....
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
This is my Trans Am Smokey & Bandit limited edition 1 of 213 made. An yes I got it for a steal. It's a miracle I even got the thing running.

A replacement engine will devalue the overall car. I checked and the engine vin matches.


Keep doing what you're doing and it'll be singing like Jerry Reed.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Keep doing what you're doing and it'll be singing like Jerry Reed.


We're gonna do what they say can't be done.
 
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