Switch to Synthetic?

[jkasch]

I've read numerous accounts of folks switching to synthetic on high mileage vehicles and then developing leaks around seals that supposedly gotten cleaned up.

I've been running conventional 30wt in a 23hp B&S Intek v-twin for about 11 seasons (Michigan/half acre) . Do you think a switch to synth would likely result in a leak?

Oil and filter have been changed each spring. Thanks for opinions.

 

[dlundblad]

There's only one way to find out.

 

[jacky]

i have had it happen in a car and nobody on here believed me
but in your situation you could try it

 

[gregk24]

Why would there be gunk around seals anyway? Its not like that is a hot spot on the engine for deposits to form. I say go for it, its either going to leak, or its not. If it does you could run a high mileage oil to slow it down.

 

[OneEyeJack]

Why not leave well enough alone?

 

[Leo99]

Originally Posted By: jacky
i have had it happen in a car and nobody on here believed me
but in your situation you could try it


I believe you, bro.

 

[abycat]

Originally Posted By: Leo99
Originally Posted By: jacky
i have had it happen in a car and nobody on here believed me
but in your situation you could try it


I believe you, bro.


ha ha ha ha ha ha!

 

[jacky]

Originally Posted By: Leo99
Originally Posted By: jacky
i have had it happen in a car and nobody on here believed me
but in your situation you could try it


I believe you, bro.
thanks!!!!

 

[jkasch]

Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Why not leave well enough alone?


That's what I'm leaning towards. Last summer was the first time it used a little oil. I was thinking it might slow the wear process a bit. I was wondering if anyone had done it and developed a leak in a lawn tractor.

 

[Eddie]

20 HP V twin B&S in a John Deere. Bought from neighbor with 102 hours on engine. He used PYB 10w30 and I switched to PP 10w30. No ill effects for the last 30 engine hours. Ed

 

[crazyoildude]

ever hear if it aint broke....???

 

[crazyoildude]

I believe you also it happens to a lot of people including myself

 

[Dyusik]

My oil leaks gone down since syn use in my 4.0 same as n y old J30 with the VG30DE.

I'm going to switch an 89 gm 2.8 afer I do my experiment of a 2yr dino run. Pretty sure it won't leak more than it does now.

 

[jkasch]

Originally Posted By: Eddie
20 HP V twin B&S in a John Deere. Bought from neighbor with 102 hours on engine. He used PYB 10w30 and I switched to PP 10w30. No ill effects for the last 30 engine hours. Ed


Thanks. That's the kind of feedback I was hoping for. Appreciate the opinions, as well.

 

[901Memphis]

Mobil 1 High Mileage has all the goodies an air cooled engine need anyways, I'd use 10w30 if you don't crank it in the cold.

 

[GenesisGuy70]

Use synthetic and live.

If a leak begins use a HM oil or switch to a syn blend.

In your neck of the woods synthetic has a real leg up on dino.

 

[SnowDrifter]

If you're that concerned maybe try a synthetic using group III base stocks? It's essentially highly refined Dino at that point. Might play better with the seals? Or find something ester based like Redline that also plays well with old seals? I've found PAO stuff seems to do the worst in that regard.

Yeah as much as no one believes synthetic causes leaks in older vehicles, I too have had it happen. I can't explain why. I don't believe its from buildup though. Maybe how it interacts with the seals? My experience was with a 1983 BMW 320i. Put amsoil manual transmission fluid in it. Leaked like a siv. Switched to redline mtl, no problem. Old fluid never leaked eather. With one synthetic leaking and one not, has me thinking "synthetic" is just too broad.

 

[SnowDrifter]

From a little reading I've been doing, that seems to be because group IV oils, PAO, tend to shrink seals somewhat. Perhaps maybe the thing to look for is either a group III or group V? Just thinking out loud here, it's all theory. Can't say I've done significant testing one way or another aside from the "oh this leaked" and "this didn't" in the transmission as well as switching to T6 (group III) in and older car with no ill effects

 

[tony1679]

I switched my 12hp single cylinder B+S from who-knows-what SAE 30 to Valvoline Synpower 5W-30 two years ago. No issues to report, definitely cleaner inside, and seems to run a little cooler (not proven scientifically, just my opinion). B+S even specifically states "a full synthetic XW-30 is an acceptable alternative (to their B+S SAE 30 of course). Use with confidence!

 

[Kamele0N]

Always put synthetic in AIRcooled engines...i am using synthetic in all my ope engnes...scooters..chainsaws...

B&S 3.5hp lawnmover engine doesnt burn oil anymore (previusly i was using 15w40 or 10w40...now 5w40)

Tecumseh Hmsk100...burns less oil than previously