Roofing products to recommend or avoid?

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I'm in the market to have a new roof put on my house. I've heard that GAF had an issue with their Timberline architectural shingles a few years ago. For those of you in the trades or have had their roofs redone, any roofing products that are recommended or should be avoided?
 
Every roofing manufacturer has had issues with their products at one time or another...

I'd be more concerned with the install than I would with the Brand.

In this area, Certainteed, Owens Corning, GAF, and IKO are generally interchangeable.
 
Yea like many things the install is really key. make sure the drip edge is installed right. Good layout of the underlayment. Fix any rot/bad spots on the roof panels. Strip the old roof off, don't double down. etc...

I have found the best bang for the buck is the mid grade shingles. So skip the 20-25 year and go for the 30yr/architectural ones.
 
I'm getting quotes from some well-known contractors in the area for both tear-off and shingling over the existing. There are a lot of roofs that need to be replaced in my area due to the record-breaking winter we had, so the larger contractors that have been here for a while are getting first crack at the bids. They're more likely to be here to fix an installation issue if one should arise.
 
Recommend - GAF Deck Armour instead of tarpaper under the shingles...

3 square tarpaper -$25 - $30
10 square Deck Armour $100

Tough waterproof synthetic membrane, not hard to nail, resists tearing...

I first saw it used on a home improvement show, I think it was "This Old House" on PBS
 
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I did my own roof myself eight years ago. My research led me to use Certainteed shingles. I opted for the 40 year architectural.

The job included removing three layers and redecking the 41 year old house, plus a lot of other stuff. As with car maintenance, nobody will do the repair as well as the owner, nor use premium materials. Everything was hand nailed. There was nothing more theraputic than hammering away on the roof every evening. Also I welcomed the exercise.
 
Standing seam metal roof!!!!

Also make sure the framing can handle the extra weight from not tearing off the old shingles
 
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My 2 cents:

* Definately go with removing old shingles.
Reason: Snow on the roof weighs a lot, don't add to the weight with old shingles.
* Repair any damaged sheeting (now is the time)
* 6 ft of Ice & Water Shield from the gutters

Pick all good materials / insure a good install = no regrets.

When I had my roof reshingled, I went to their current work-site and watched them work.
This was 'before' signing the contract.

Before the workers begin, let them know you will buy pizza for lunch.
Could be the best investment you'll make.
 
Had mine done last year with Certainteed 30 year architectual.
Large roof with steep pitch.
$13,000 (with receipt - no cash....) Not cheap but no way could do it myself.
They were on the roof 3 days with 5 - 6 guys.
Satisfied with the install and product performance (so far)
 
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Originally Posted By: Kestas
I did my own roof myself eight years ago. My research led me to use Certainteed shingles. I opted for the 40 year architectural.

The job included removing three layers and redecking the 41 year old house, plus a lot of other stuff. As with car maintenance, nobody will do the repair as well as the owner, nor use premium materials. Everything was hand nailed. There was nothing more theraputic than hammering away on the roof every evening. Also I welcomed the exercise.


41 year old house already had 3 layers??
 
We put a roof on our house about 4 years ago. Correction: USAA put the roof on our house (tornado damage). But we're happy with the product and happy with the installation. We used CertainTeed Landmark shingles, which come with a lifetime warranty. You definitely want good attic ventilation (many shingles' warranties are not valid if the attic doesn't have a modern venting system). So install a ridge vent along with soffit vents while you're doing it. Thicker shingles such as these don't bend as easily, so the installer may choose to cut the valleys instead of weave them. Either method is fine. We had our installer remove the old roof first. Fortunately, there was no damage underneath. Despite multiple passes with the magnetic wheel, we still find roofing nails that came up off the old roof.
 
Thanks for the tips, especially the one about delivering lunch and treating the installers well. I have an "in" at a local pizza place, so they might be able to help me with lunch.

I don't think a metal roof is an option at this time. It's likely asphalt shingle due to cost.

The house is already set up for soffit and ridge venting, so that makes my life easier. The soffits do need a good cleaning once it gets warmer.

Please keep the tips and ideas coming!
 
I did this work myself a few years back. I used Certainteed landmark shingles due to the color choice, anti-mildew, availability and now life-time warranty. I also had to repair rotted miters between the rake & fascia in several places because the original job had no flashing there. Who installs it and how they install it are critical.

All of my drip-edge and flashing is made from a heavy-gauge galvalume metal. None of that cheap, flimsy stuff some use that looks wavy as it goes up the rake.
 
At a home show a few yrs back I noticed a vender with a new product that replaces tarpaper. It was suppose to work better under metal roofs that tarpaper he said. It kind of reminded me of Tyvek.
 
My wife is scared that I'll fall, so she's not budging on hiring somebody to re-roof the house. The discussion was had multiple times, and always the same result. No DIY on this one.

I didn't know about the different kinds of drip edge. More information to ask. Thanks!
 
GAF Timberline seems to be the go-to product around here. The quotes I've gotten have been for GAF products. The contractors want to do tear-offs to put down ice and water shield so they don't have come-backs in winters down the line. That is fine with me.
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
My wife is scared that I'll fall, so she's not budging on hiring somebody to re-roof the house. The discussion was had multiple times, and always the same result. No DIY on this one.


I'm with your wife on this one. I don't know about your situation, but our household is a single income household, and I have no business being up on a roof, possibly getting hurt, and jeopardizing our single income source. I don't even climb too high on ladders much -- I just don't feel that the reward is worth the risk.

And that's just the financial piece. Even if finances were completely covered either way -- I'm not going to risk my health and well-being (and ability to drive, etc) to save a few thousand dollars on a roof. I know someone who is paralyzed because he fell off a ladder. He can't drive; he can't even walk through a park on a nice day.

It does happen.
 
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