DIY..Brake Rotor Resurfacing
- Thread starter Warstud
- Start date
- Status
I must have something wrong with my computer or browser. I can never see the videos people upload.
Only hand tigtening a stone on a hand grinder? That looks very unsafe.
I hope he mic'd the rotors before and after to make sure he had enough meat left( but i doubt it). I'm not sure how you make sure the thickness of the rotor is the same from the outside to the inside radius.
He would have been better off just using a flapper sanding wheel or just slapping the new pads on.
I hope he mic'd the rotors before and after to make sure he had enough meat left( but i doubt it). I'm not sure how you make sure the thickness of the rotor is the same from the outside to the inside radius.
He would have been better off just using a flapper sanding wheel or just slapping the new pads on.
Last edited:
^ do you have adobe flash? and is it enabled in your browser?
looks interesting though, while it may not be accurate to the 1000th of an inch i would think it got pretty even since the car was in gear...?
I guess if they don't pulse when you put them on what difference does it make?
looks interesting though, while it may not be accurate to the 1000th of an inch i would think it got pretty even since the car was in gear...?
I guess if they don't pulse when you put them on what difference does it make?
There is really not much between new and no longer usable. If the rotor really needs to be resurfaced, by the time you are done with resurfacing, it may not be usable.
Since a decent rotor at NAPA is $35 for many cars, I cannot see resurfacing.
Since a decent rotor at NAPA is $35 for many cars, I cannot see resurfacing.
Very interesting but looks both unsafe and likely to have uneveness causing lateral runout to be out and pulsing brakes.
How do you say "Redneck motors" in German?
I have broken the glaze on rotors using a small orbital sander, but I would not hog material off with a grinder. Flat is better. I am not convinced the method shown achieves flat. Just sayin'.
I have broken the glaze on rotors using a small orbital sander, but I would not hog material off with a grinder. Flat is better. I am not convinced the method shown achieves flat. Just sayin'.
I'm hesitant to learn anything from someone who appears to be working on a vehicle that's only held up by the jack. I understand he's not getting under the vehicle, but I still like to see jack stands being used.
He said it was a five speed manual, then went into the car and put it in fifth gear. How did he keep the vehicle from stalling, did he put something on the gas pedal? Wheels didn't seem to be going that fast.
He said it was a five speed manual, then went into the car and put it in fifth gear. How did he keep the vehicle from stalling, did he put something on the gas pedal? Wheels didn't seem to be going that fast.
"This one is more rougher."
Makes me wince to think that the motorist directly behind might be too cheap to invest in brake proper hardware.
Makes me wince to think that the motorist directly behind might be too cheap to invest in brake proper hardware.
"Plenty of meat" was determined by placing thumb and forefinger on the rotor...
OK, so, no need to accurately mic it then...
And it goes downhill from there...
Caliper hanging by the hose, car supported only by a jack, and with the engine running....
OK, so, no need to accurately mic it then...
And it goes downhill from there...
Caliper hanging by the hose, car supported only by a jack, and with the engine running....
Last edited:
Mixed feelings.
I'm OK with knocking off ridges and busting glaze on serviceable disks. I did just that a year ago on three sets of brakes (it was like a brake job marathon springtime). I made a little turntable with a lazy susan bearing, spun them by hand and went at them with a drill and coarse sanding disk. The results were OK and those brakes are still working fine.
I'm uncomfortable with using the car to spin the disks. Of course you'd have to take the usual precautions one would take working around a lathe. And watch the grinder air hose, if it got snagged by the spinning disks that would be ugly. Not sure about those gloves, if they somehow got snagged... The big thing that unsettles me is that there's no emergency shut-off. Shutting it down involves running around the car and turning off the key.
I'm OK with knocking off ridges and busting glaze on serviceable disks. I did just that a year ago on three sets of brakes (it was like a brake job marathon springtime). I made a little turntable with a lazy susan bearing, spun them by hand and went at them with a drill and coarse sanding disk. The results were OK and those brakes are still working fine.
I'm uncomfortable with using the car to spin the disks. Of course you'd have to take the usual precautions one would take working around a lathe. And watch the grinder air hose, if it got snagged by the spinning disks that would be ugly. Not sure about those gloves, if they somehow got snagged... The big thing that unsettles me is that there's no emergency shut-off. Shutting it down involves running around the car and turning off the key.
I'm sorry, but from a professional perspective: this is downright unsafe, if not a sheer redneck way to deal with rotors.
There's no means to knock off uneven high spots, no measurements, no nothing.
I'd rather buy cheep chinese rotors (at least they are fresh, rust-free, and true right from mile zero) than spending time doing it the redneck way.
Q.
There's no means to knock off uneven high spots, no measurements, no nothing.
I'd rather buy cheep chinese rotors (at least they are fresh, rust-free, and true right from mile zero) than spending time doing it the redneck way.
Q.
I'll just keep getting new ones. It takes me years to wear out a set of pads. I figure I can afford a few dozen bucks spread out over several years.
Too much work. I rather spend the $50 plus shipping.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Brake/72/9
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Brake/72/9
Originally Posted By: bvance554
I just knock the glaze off with some sand paper by hand. Works fine.
I didn't do anything to the rotors the last time I replace rear pad for Honda S2000, front pads for MB E430 and Volvo V70, just removed old pads and installed new pads.
I just knock the glaze off with some sand paper by hand. Works fine.
I didn't do anything to the rotors the last time I replace rear pad for Honda S2000, front pads for MB E430 and Volvo V70, just removed old pads and installed new pads.
It actually works well if your rotors arent warped.
The amount of removed material is small. And using the Engine to spin the Wheel doesent mean that you have to be above idle, the Engine easily do this at idle.
- be careful if you have a differential brake or lock of some sort. if so make sure both Wheels are of ground.
The amount of removed material is small. And using the Engine to spin the Wheel doesent mean that you have to be above idle, the Engine easily do this at idle.
- be careful if you have a differential brake or lock of some sort. if so make sure both Wheels are of ground.
Originally Posted By: montero1
I'll continue to buy new, or pay to have it done right.
Yeah - new rotors are not that expensive on line - for my civic, I can get centric premiums for the rear for 18 apiece and fronts for around 30.
I'll continue to buy new, or pay to have it done right.
Yeah - new rotors are not that expensive on line - for my civic, I can get centric premiums for the rear for 18 apiece and fronts for around 30.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
