Back to conventional oils
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I sorta went through this cycle with my Escape. I started it on synthetic and then decided that it was cheaper to do 5k OCIs with Kendal GT1 Blend 5W20 and MC filter. I don't have the papers in front of me but from my best recollection I went to this regimen at about 60k mile mark on the Escape. At 110k miles, I had developed deposits that caused a leak at the rear main seal. once cleaned up, the leak disappeared. So now I have circled back around to the synthetic camp.
My mazda will only see synthetic for its entire life and I'll likely use cleaners for any vehicle that sees conventional oil regularly.
My mazda will only see synthetic for its entire life and I'll likely use cleaners for any vehicle that sees conventional oil regularly.
Originally Posted By: badtlc
I sorta went through this cycle with my Escape. I started it on synthetic and then decided that it was cheaper to do 5k OCIs with Kendal GT1 Blend 5W20 and MC filter. I don't have the papers in front of me but from my best recollection I went to this regimen at about 60k mile mark on the Escape. At 110k miles, I had developed deposits that caused a leak at the rear main seal. once cleaned up, the leak disappeared. So now I have circled back around to the synthetic camp.
My mazda will only see synthetic for its entire life and I'll likely use cleaners for any vehicle that sees conventional oil regularly.
Interesting....I had bought 3 OCs of Kendall Gt1 5w-30 syn-Blend (I couldn't pass $1/qt) and planned on using the Kendall oil between OCIs of Pennzoil PPP....
I sorta went through this cycle with my Escape. I started it on synthetic and then decided that it was cheaper to do 5k OCIs with Kendal GT1 Blend 5W20 and MC filter. I don't have the papers in front of me but from my best recollection I went to this regimen at about 60k mile mark on the Escape. At 110k miles, I had developed deposits that caused a leak at the rear main seal. once cleaned up, the leak disappeared. So now I have circled back around to the synthetic camp.
My mazda will only see synthetic for its entire life and I'll likely use cleaners for any vehicle that sees conventional oil regularly.
Interesting....I had bought 3 OCs of Kendall Gt1 5w-30 syn-Blend (I couldn't pass $1/qt) and planned on using the Kendall oil between OCIs of Pennzoil PPP....
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wemay
Site Donor 2023
I wouldn't automatically place blame on the Kendall GT-1.
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
From what I have read and from the few UOAs I have done, synthetic oils appear to last about %50 longer and I make use of that. When you factor in the cost of the oil and filter [most people are going to change the filter at the same time] and the labour involved in changing the oil, it makes economic sense to use synthetic. I’ve also noticed my car turns over faster, in cold weather, with synthetic oil which probably translates to less wear and lower fuel bills.
In my situation it doesn’t make sense to use conventional oil.
My situation is 6,000 km oil changes for warranty purposes so I use the conventional as it's kind of a waste for synthetic oil to be changed that early. Heck, with the amount of jugs I have (6 - 5qt.) with a car that only takes 3.5 qts. I may go 5,000 km OCI's instead.
From what I have read and from the few UOAs I have done, synthetic oils appear to last about %50 longer and I make use of that. When you factor in the cost of the oil and filter [most people are going to change the filter at the same time] and the labour involved in changing the oil, it makes economic sense to use synthetic. I’ve also noticed my car turns over faster, in cold weather, with synthetic oil which probably translates to less wear and lower fuel bills.
In my situation it doesn’t make sense to use conventional oil.
My situation is 6,000 km oil changes for warranty purposes so I use the conventional as it's kind of a waste for synthetic oil to be changed that early. Heck, with the amount of jugs I have (6 - 5qt.) with a car that only takes 3.5 qts. I may go 5,000 km OCI's instead.
The sliding scale "comfort zone" for OCIs obviously play a significant part in the economics but there's also considerations with preventative maintenance that involve more than things like TBN and shearing. I buy the PP GTL version because I think it might have an effect on any carbon deposits on my DI engine over the life of the car. Pennzoil suggests it as such. If I have to pay $7-$8 dollars more each OCI then I might potentially get more than that back over time in preventative value than if I used a conventional oil with a NOACK of 15 at 5-6K mile OCIs. Can't say assuredly that it'll play out this way but it's worth it to me and involves more that calculating which type of oil is cheaper per mile.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Your entry makes sense and covers one theory but, even while requiring/recommending ACEA, mfc approved, stout synthetic oils and Top Tier fuels, many euro GDi applications are still suffering valve deposit issues (scan thier forums). The advent and adoption of dual injection by a few manufacturers (VAG and Toyota for example) is testament to this realization and akin to accepting that these stout oils probably aren't the answer but just kicking the can down the road. The other theory is conventional oil at shorter oci (Hyundai/Kia etc) in an attempt to keep fresh oil in the sump. Is this the answer? Who knows... At the end of the day, every d.i. adopter will have some fraction of its customers fall victim to the IVD issue. But i do think that number will be small.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Once I saw with my own eyes what the hemi was capable of and how well it ran at those miles buying another was a no brainer for me.
Very true, Hemi's are really easy on oil it seems. I knew of one that went 340,000 miles on conventional changed 8k-10k. Engine ran great still but transmission went at 340k due to never having it's fluid changed.
Once I saw with my own eyes what the hemi was capable of and how well it ran at those miles buying another was a no brainer for me.
Very true, Hemi's are really easy on oil it seems. I knew of one that went 340,000 miles on conventional changed 8k-10k. Engine ran great still but transmission went at 340k due to never having it's fluid changed.
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i also prefer conventional oil but i buy high mileage
i would never let my oci exceed 3,000 miles on any oil at any price
i have tried synthetic and i cant see any advantage
i believe due to its cleaning abilty synthetic can make existing leaks worse (who wants that?)
i actually just bought some havoline conventional hm oil
i would never let my oci exceed 3,000 miles on any oil at any price
i have tried synthetic and i cant see any advantage
i believe due to its cleaning abilty synthetic can make existing leaks worse (who wants that?)
i actually just bought some havoline conventional hm oil
Use whatever is cheapest. Let your syn go a bit longer. No brainer. Just changed to Havoline conventional. Oil and filter $12.50 including tax. Drained out the QSUD 0W20 from winter and put 5W30 in for warmer temps. My beliefs, no data behind it. I have a 5qt jug of M1AFE 0W20 for next winter I got for $22 a few months ago, a 5qt jug of QSUD 5W30 I got for $19, and 10 quarts of random NAPA syn 0w20, 5w20, and 5w30 for the following year for $3.79 per quart. I have 5 Quaker State filters I got on sale for 1.99 each. I used to use Fram death cans on a Nissan Pathfinder (1988) and that thing died of other illnesses with a strong, clean engine. Cheap, cheap, cheap. Unless you have some new high functioning turbo. Then Dexos or Honda specd.
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