WET SUMP

[mikeyyy]

Why is that when i had my motorcycles back in the 1970 era with wet sump clutch system and used coventional 10 w 30 or 10w 40 motor oil and never had a problem out of clutches slipping or anything.DO NOT TELL ME WET CLUTCHES ARE THAT MUCH DIFFERENT ON TODAYS MOTORCYCLES BECAUSE I WILL FIND THAT HARD TO BELIEVE
jaso ma was unheard of

 

[spasm3]

Todays oils have lots more friction modifiers than back then.

 

[highlifter]

Easy, they did not have "Energy Conserving" friction modifiers in them. Totally different era with products that were manufactured and refined differently. Your clutch design may not have changed much, but oil sure has.

 

[mikeyyy]

but my wet clutch system shoud be fine useing cheaper conventional motor oil than spending alot more money on jaso ma standards oil

 

[4wheeldog]

If you exclusively used oil from the '70s, your wet clutch would not have a single problem. But you would have to change it a lot more often, and it wouldn't do near the job of protecting the engine.

In other words, the oil changed, not the clutch design or materials.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: mikeyyy
but my wet clutch system shoud be fine useing cheaper conventional motor oil than spending alot more money on jaso ma standards oil


Even the cheaper conventional oils have friction modifiers, they have to to be rated sl, sm, sn etc.

BUT

You can use and I use rotella 15w 40 and t-6 5w 40 with no problems. Those oils are priced in the range you desire.

 

[mikeyyy]

I was told not to use energy conserving in motorcycles because it could cause clutch slipping,but conventional 10 w 40 is not energy conserving and fits the bill for my bike.

 

[mikeyyy]

yes i have used that in bikes before with no problems

 

[4wheeldog]

You can also use HDEO (Rotella, Delo, etc) without worry for clutch slippage. Or, for air cooled bikes, you could use my favorite, Mobil 1 15W/50. None of these choices use energy conserving additives that cause wet clutch issues.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: mikeyyy
Why is that when i had my motorcycles back in the 1970 era with wet sump clutch system and used coventional 10 w 30 or 10w 40 motor oil and never had a problem out of clutches slipping or anything.DO NOT TELL ME WET CLUTCHES ARE THAT MUCH DIFFERENT ON TODAYS MOTORCYCLES BECAUSE I WILL FIND THAT HARD TO BELIEVE
jaso ma was unheard of
So what would you like to believe?

 

[Chris142]

I have ran all kinds of automotive oils. Never have I had any clutch issues

 

[mikeyyy]

thanks,i think jaso ma are a gimmic to get you to buy their over priced oil

 

[kmrcstintn]

use whatever you like...it's your ride

currently I have a bit over 5 liters of a 'franken-blend' that is a mix of Havoline conventional 10w-40 pcmo, BelRay conventional 10w-40 motorcycle oil, SuperTech conventional 15w-40 hdeo, and maybe a bit of Quaker State conventional 10w-40 pcmo; this blend will be used in both bikes this season with shorter OCI's of 1000-2000 miles (a new filter every 4000 miles on the Honda Shadow and every 3000 miles on the Suzuki GZ250); the blend is also my roadside/top off oil for this season and winter storage oil for winter; I also use this as cleaning/lubricating oil for my firearms...

the only exception to usingsuch a blend for me is in a 2-wheeled machine will be during the warranty period if I decide to get a new Piaggio based scooter (Vespa, Piaggio, Aprilia) which indicates a 5w-40 (in such a case I will use Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella T-6 or Mobil 1 truck oil)

I believe JASO MA/MA2 rating/certification is a 'checks & balances' guidemark for warranty use by the bike/scooter/atv manufacturers...

 

[Robenstein]

Originally Posted By: mikeyyy
thanks,i think jaso ma are a gimmic to get you to buy their over priced oil


If you have some miles on your clutch...the new oils can make them slip. Certain hondas(the shadow line) especially have had that problem. Also oils we used in cars back in the 70's had higher levels of anti wear additives in them.The engines of the time with flat tappet cam/lifters required it. The newer car oils do not have this as the engines these days were designed to allow these additives to be reduced to protect catalytic converters.

Do yourself a favor, if you will not run a 10w40 motorcycle oil, then run the diesel oils. You will get better wear protection versus something like 10w40 Pennzoil/Havoline/Castrol conventional car oil. And Rotella especially has the Jaso rating. Any diesel with the Allison C4 rating will also be certified wet clutch friendly.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: mikeyyy
thanks,i think jaso ma are a gimmic to get you to buy their over priced oil

Rotella T 15w-40 meets JASO MA requirements and it is very far from overpriced.

 

[Robenstein]

Valvoline 4t is also dirt cheap at Wal Mart and it is not overpriced.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: mikeyyy
thanks,i think jaso ma are a gimmic to get you to buy their over priced oil

Rotella T 15w-40 meets JASO MA requirements and it is very far from overpriced.

T6 is often mentioned with favor on the BMW airhead sites. I use it in mine, though as we know, it has a dry clutch.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Yeah, from what I've read, T6 gets beat up pretty quickly in wet sump applications.

 

[LotI]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Yeah, from what I've read, T6 gets beat up pretty quickly in wet sump applications.


Common sump would be the appropriate term. The engine and transmission share the same lubricant. The transmission is usually blamed for the shearing and subsequent viscosity reduction.

JASO is just a Japanese standard and they have tests for performance and compatibility. Rotella just chooses to have their 15w-40 and 5w-40 tested. Maybe Delo & M1 meet the standards but they didn't pay to test. Maybe your PCMO 10w-40 choice is fine but you never know. Stick with an oil that meets the standard and you won't have to guess.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: LotI
Common sump would be the appropriate term.

Correct. I looked at the thread's subject line and used the OP's terminology when what I really should have stated was "shared sump."