Every 3 months
Minimum OCI for Honda
- Thread starter kenpoed
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My Honda maintenance schedule
Engine oil & filter 5000 miles
ATF drain fill- annually or 20,000
coolant 50,000
p/s fluid 50,000
brake fluid- every reline complete flush.
Serpentine belt- 75,000
Air filter 20,000
Engine oil & filter 5000 miles
ATF drain fill- annually or 20,000
coolant 50,000
p/s fluid 50,000
brake fluid- every reline complete flush.
Serpentine belt- 75,000
Air filter 20,000
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If you're doing 75 miles a day, you aren't driving the car in anything like severe service. Even if you did, the IOLM that Honda calls the MM will account for how you operate the car and do so accurately.
If you drove two miles to work and then two miles home each day, that would be severe service, but the MM would reflect that and require more frequent drains.
Use the recommended 0W-20 grade and change after the MM hits 15% oil life remaining.
Four cylinder Hondas have always been easy on oil, even the DI Accords built after the 2012 MY and there are many UOAs here to support that.
You want to waste your time and your money?
Do 5K OCIs.
You want to save some of both?
Do your drains per the MM.
The engine will last well past 200K either way and will remain perfectly healthy either way.
There must be engineers banging their heads against a wall, having spent hundreds of hours developing an alogorithym that takes all of the guesswork out of oil change intervals only to have so many who should benefit from this questioning their efforts.
If you drove two miles to work and then two miles home each day, that would be severe service, but the MM would reflect that and require more frequent drains.
Use the recommended 0W-20 grade and change after the MM hits 15% oil life remaining.
Four cylinder Hondas have always been easy on oil, even the DI Accords built after the 2012 MY and there are many UOAs here to support that.
You want to waste your time and your money?
Do 5K OCIs.
You want to save some of both?
Do your drains per the MM.
The engine will last well past 200K either way and will remain perfectly healthy either way.
There must be engineers banging their heads against a wall, having spent hundreds of hours developing an alogorithym that takes all of the guesswork out of oil change intervals only to have so many who should benefit from this questioning their efforts.
Originally Posted By: dernp
They do??
I'm not so sure about that. Just follow the MM you'll be fine. Hondas are very easy on oil.
Agreed. My buddy with a new Civic Si has no problems with 10,000 mile OCIs, notably with no consumption. He's been using Hastings filters and Synpower, if I'm not mistaken.
They do??
I'm not so sure about that. Just follow the MM you'll be fine. Hondas are very easy on oil.
Agreed. My buddy with a new Civic Si has no problems with 10,000 mile OCIs, notably with no consumption. He's been using Hastings filters and Synpower, if I'm not mistaken.
I don't think people are questioning the efforts of engineers in relation to the OCI as much as doing what fits their schedules rather than waiting on a dashboard gadget to tell them they have x percent oil value left. If I have it scheduled it gets done versus running into "20% left" at x miles where I can let it go x miles or another month or whatever...it becomes nebulous rather than something that's hard coded into my schedule. In my case, that's the main reason why I don't pay attention to oil monitors if I only have to change it two or three times a year based on mileage OR if I was doing 25-30K highway miles a year again. If my weekends are busy, they become busier if I have to change the oil so I'm a much stronger proponent of scheduling the change rather than [censored] about how long it'll take it to go from 25% to 15% on the OM. I'll let the engineers do that..
Severe category, don't think so. 75 miles a day is easy on oil, it gets up to full temp and even if you ran third gear all day long that would still be easy on the oil. No load on the engine. Just go by the maintenance minder and I bet it will tell you to run the oil filter for two oil changes.
I drive a S2000 and hit 8200 rpm almost every day and I go by the maintenance minder and yes I do run the oil filter for two oil changes(15k miles). I don't use more than 1/4 qt. in 7500 miles and my '97 Honda wagon with 212,000 miles still dosen't use 1 qt. of oil in 8k mile OCI.
ROD
I drive a S2000 and hit 8200 rpm almost every day and I go by the maintenance minder and yes I do run the oil filter for two oil changes(15k miles). I don't use more than 1/4 qt. in 7500 miles and my '97 Honda wagon with 212,000 miles still dosen't use 1 qt. of oil in 8k mile OCI.
ROD
I like rotating my tires every 5 to 6k miles and changing my oil around 5k as well. I live in Buffalo where we get the extremes of the weather. We get minus 30 to minus 40 out and we get some days where it feels like 100 out. So for me I like to change it at 5k miles. I'll change it in the middle of winter provided I can get in my garage but I do try to avoid it. My driving mix is about 65 percent city and 35 percent highway.
My wife's 2011 Accord SE used to see runs of Castrol Edge Gold Bottle 0w20, changed when the MM was at 10% or less. She totaled it at about 65,000mi, but that car never used a bit of oil and ran perfectly. If you're running a quality synthetic like M1, I see no reason not to take advantage of the MM. If you're determined to change closer to the 5k mark, just run a good Dino oil like PYB 5w20.
Originally Posted By: Vuflanovsky
I don't think people are questioning the efforts of engineers in relation to the OCI as much as doing what fits their schedules rather than waiting on a dashboard gadget to tell them they have x percent oil value left. If I have it scheduled it gets done versus running into "20% left" at x miles where I can let it go x miles or another month or whatever...it becomes nebulous rather than something that's hard coded into my schedule. In my case, that's the main reason why I don't pay attention to oil monitors if I only have to change it two or three times a year based on mileage OR if I was doing 25-30K highway miles a year again. If my weekends are busy, they become busier if I have to change the oil so I'm a much stronger proponent of scheduling the change rather than [censored] about how long it'll take it to go from 25% to 15% on the OM. I'll let the engineers do that..
After you've had any car for a little while, the decline rate of the IOLM becomes very predictable.
In the case of any later Honda, if you consider 15% MM to be the threshold at which you start planning an oil change, you have another thousand miles minimum to MM 0% in which to find a convenient window for that change and maybe as much as 1500 miles plus, depending upon the observed historical decline rate as the car is actually used.
The MM is a tool that allows you both to get more safe run time from the oil and to plan oil changes based upon the historical decline rate you've observed as you use your car.
I don't find it too difficult planning an oil change at a convenient time when I know that I have a window of three or four weeks to fit it in.
I don't think people are questioning the efforts of engineers in relation to the OCI as much as doing what fits their schedules rather than waiting on a dashboard gadget to tell them they have x percent oil value left. If I have it scheduled it gets done versus running into "20% left" at x miles where I can let it go x miles or another month or whatever...it becomes nebulous rather than something that's hard coded into my schedule. In my case, that's the main reason why I don't pay attention to oil monitors if I only have to change it two or three times a year based on mileage OR if I was doing 25-30K highway miles a year again. If my weekends are busy, they become busier if I have to change the oil so I'm a much stronger proponent of scheduling the change rather than [censored] about how long it'll take it to go from 25% to 15% on the OM. I'll let the engineers do that..
After you've had any car for a little while, the decline rate of the IOLM becomes very predictable.
In the case of any later Honda, if you consider 15% MM to be the threshold at which you start planning an oil change, you have another thousand miles minimum to MM 0% in which to find a convenient window for that change and maybe as much as 1500 miles plus, depending upon the observed historical decline rate as the car is actually used.
The MM is a tool that allows you both to get more safe run time from the oil and to plan oil changes based upon the historical decline rate you've observed as you use your car.
I don't find it too difficult planning an oil change at a convenient time when I know that I have a window of three or four weeks to fit it in.
I would be interested in seeing a UOA at 30, 20 and 10% OLM levels. Ed
92 Toyota Previa
Out: Castrol GTX 10w-30, Purolator Classic 5500 miles
In: Chevron 10w-30, Wix Filter
Out: Castrol GTX 10w-30, Purolator Classic 5500 miles
In: Chevron 10w-30, Wix Filter
Originally Posted By: Alex38
My wife's 2011 Accord SE used to see runs of Castrol Edge Gold Bottle 0w20, changed when the MM was at 10% or less. She totaled it at about 65,000mi, but that car never used a bit of oil and ran perfectly. If you're running a quality synthetic like M1, I see no reason not to take advantage of the MM. If you're determined to change closer to the 5k mark, just run a good Dino oil like PYB 5w20.
I don't have this option on my 2014 Accord. It specs 0W20 and I won't consider anything else until later on in it's life.
My wife's 2011 Accord SE used to see runs of Castrol Edge Gold Bottle 0w20, changed when the MM was at 10% or less. She totaled it at about 65,000mi, but that car never used a bit of oil and ran perfectly. If you're running a quality synthetic like M1, I see no reason not to take advantage of the MM. If you're determined to change closer to the 5k mark, just run a good Dino oil like PYB 5w20.
I don't have this option on my 2014 Accord. It specs 0W20 and I won't consider anything else until later on in it's life.
You get a lot of -40C/F days in NY?
We do not buy why use an oil that's not recommended while I'm still under warranty?
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5w20 can be a more robust formulation for those not in a very cold zone due to less VM in the mix to achieve the 0 winter spec. 5 dollar pseudo synthetics often compromised. Im sure there are a handful of super premium 0w20 that are not, though. Would you pick one of those for better longevity?
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