Echo chainsaws

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Agree with ac tc, a shorter bar will make your work more efficiently. Unless you freqently cut firewood thicker than 15", I would definitely go with a 13-15" bar. Long bars makes you work harder, the saw work harder besides reducing your safety.

Real lumbering professionals use the shortest, strongest, lightest saws for the task. Rather get a really heavy (70cc-) felling saw with a long bar for old oak or redwood and do all other felling and limbing with a snappy 13-15" 45-55cc.
A 20"- bar will not really do well on saws under 55cc, but if you sometimes need to take on heavy trees, get a longer bar and chain for those occasions only.

I think that bar lenght is just something "measurable" in marketing terms, 18" sounds "more value" than 14"... For most purposes it is just as useful as advertising "heavy", "Wow you now get a bicycle with 10 lbs added weight!" Good, really good...

And, regardless, a razor sharp chain is what you -really- need. Get a file/file dog, a couple of extra chains. That will make the cc a smaller problem.
 
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I have a few years of homeowner experience with Echo saws. I owned a CS-370 (same basic saw as the CS-400, just a smaller engine) for around 5 years, and currently own a CS-400. Both of those have been excellent for me. I bought both used, and both needed some attention when I got them. I did remove the limiter caps on the carburetor and add some fuel from the factory settings on both saws. I have also removed the catalyst from the CS-400 muffler and opened the size of the exhaust port to match the deflector, so it is a little more free flowing than stock. I wasn't unhappy with the CS-370, but I was perusing my local Craigslist ads a year or so ago, and saw the CS-400 that I now have advertised for a good price so I bought it. I had to put a little time into cleaning it up and adjusting the carb to get it to run well. Then I chose to keep the CS-400 and sell the CS-370.
If I were to have purchased new, I wouldn't have modified the muffler in order to keep the warranty intact, but it definitely runs better with the muffler opened up more. I would look at the carburetor settings. If you buy new, make sure the original dealer tunes the saw for you so that it is not running too lean.
Overall, I have positive impressions regarding the CS-370/CS-400. They have been all the saw that I need for my purposes. I have a hobby of buying chainsaws that need work and fixing them to resell, so I have owned 20 or more saws in the last 5 years. With each one I fix, I go through the decision process of whether it supplants my current "keeper saw". But I have chosen to hold on to the Echo saws since I have had one.
 
Originally Posted By: slackwolf
Biggest thing with the echo's is that they are so lean from the factory that they have so much torque left on the table. Make the dealer set it up right or do it yourself.


Bought my dad an 18" Stihl Farm Boss a couple years ago and the manual stated something about warranty being invalidated if the very first start was not done by an authorized Stihl dealer... I was wondering if they were factory tuned for EPA "emissions" and the "factory authorized dealer" re-tuned them for power/longevity during the warranty mandated first start... Never did find the answer to that one.
 
Decided to go with the Echo CS 450P. $349.00 with the 18 inch bar. Dealer started it and it started the first pull. Throttle response is crisp and idles very smooth. 5 year warranty. It's raining today but will test it soon. Thanks
 
Congratulations. It's always exciting to get a new saw. That saw should last you many years.

Please take the time to become a chainsaw operator, not just a chainsaw "driver". I often confide that I can "drive" a dozer, skidsteer, or backhoe, but that does not make me a heavy equipment operator.

Many terrible accidents happen with chainsaws annually. In the classes I teach, I emphasize some of the following:

- Learn the saw inside and out. Have someone teach you about chain and bar maintenance. Don't just hand your chains to the dealer for sharpening. Know the inner details and the saw will serve you better.

- Use the proper PPE. I know a lot of deaf and maimed operators.

- Learn about reactive forces, limbing and bucking techniques, spring poles, etc.. Storm damage cleanup is often more dangerous than simple felling and bucking.

Lots of good info on You Tube and the interweb. I particularly like the teachings of Tim Ard and his "E-book" is a bible for everything chainsaws. Enjoy your new saw?


To Lars and ac-tc: you are correct, Americans generally have a tendency for the "bigger is better" mentality (look at our pick up trucks
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). My go to saw 80% of the time is our Stihl MS 260's with a 16" bar. However, in the professional world, the conditions vary tremendously across our country. Pulpwood cutting certainly is suitable with smaller saws. East of the Mississippi, hardwood harvest cuts (not TSI) often deal with 20" plus DBH trees and more power and bar length are necessary.
 
I would get a set of chainsaw chaps. Especially if you use a saw infrequently. I've used a chainsaw for 35 years. I did cut my leg a few years ago, fortunately not too bad. A set of chaps would have prevented that.
 
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While my all time favorite saw hasn't been made for a while, the Stihl 024, you can still get them used, and they're worth it if you need a beast of a saw, at around 11lbs. Anything short of needing a monster saw that's fairly light, I'd buy an Echo. That's right, the homeowner Stihls ie 251 etc, are not as good as an Echo in my book and I've built a boatload of monester Stihls to sell. What do I use? For a big saw I use a Husqvarna 60cc, for everything else, I use an Echo 352 and love it. It is the finest small saw I've ever owned, period.
 
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My current chainsaw, back back blower and weed-wacker are all Echo and each 1st time Echo. Very happy with them. If I had to go buy a replacement, I'll be first looking at the Echo products.

My mower however is not a Echo....Honda HRX and it's been great so far too.
 
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