Oil Reccomendation for 1995 bmw 540 in florida

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Hello Everyone,


I need some advice on oil reccomendations for my 95 bmw 540, the car has an m60b40 Alusil engine.
The engine was replaced and currently has around 108,000 miles on it. The previous owner ran castrol 20w-50 conventional. I have always been a fan of synthetics and have had great expereince with M1 and RL in the past in other vehicles. I have heard that switching from conventional to syn can be an issue in regards to seals and leaks. Currently the car has no leaks. thoughts?

I have been leaning towards M1 0w-40, should i consider M1 15w-50?.
The car is located in orlando, fl and is a daily driver. Any advice is much appreciated.
 
BMW should never run conventional oil in its engine. Mobil 1 0W40 or Castrol Edge 0W40 are good choices.

You may have some leak the first 1 or 2 oil changes, it should stop after that. If not then try Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W40.
 
Originally Posted By: otownbmw
So 0w-40 even in the summer heat?


0w-40 M1 ESPECIALLY for summer heat. That oil is often used in racing. In fact, IndyCars use it straight, the same oil, like they use Pennz 0w-40 too. It can take heat.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Another for M1 0w-40

I do have a mild preference for Castrol 0w-40 with titanium. 2nd the Pennz 0w-40 for Hemis, and then M1 0w-40. All are great. Preferences aren't strong here.
 
M1-0w-40-it is. Sounds like a winner to me.
Thanks!
 
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Alusil were the engines prone to rotting away right, due to sulfur in the fuel and poor construction?

If so, be sure to use only a LongLife approved oil. In this circumstance, it will ensure the oil has enough detergents to control the sulfur in the fuel. Probably err on the side of shorter OCI's to be sure.

Other oils will be okay on shorter drains, but with this engine... I don't know whether I'd try taking chances. Of course, it has made it this far, but you could increase the engine life by some figure (hopefully a lot) and save yourself a big headache in the future.

Just my two cents. I'm sure others have different ideas on the topic.
If you go on the non-approved route, just make sure its a good synthetic (M1, Shell Rotella, Valvoline etc)
 
Originally Posted By: B320i
Alusil were the engines prone to rotting away right, due to sulfur in the fuel and poor construction?

If so, be sure to use only a LongLife approved oil. In this circumstance, it will ensure the oil has enough detergents to control the sulfur in the fuel. Probably err on the side of shorter OCI's to be sure.

Other oils will be okay on shorter drains, but with this engine... I don't know whether I'd try taking chances. Of course, it has made it this far, but you could increase the engine life by some figure (hopefully a lot) and save yourself a big headache in the future.

Just my two cents. I'm sure others have different ideas on the topic.
If you go on the non-approved route, just make sure its a good synthetic (M1, Shell Rotella, Valvoline etc)


You are mistaking Alusil and Nikasil. His engine has Nikasil plating, not Alusil. Nikasil was a problem, not Alusil. Alusil is used on the N52 engine (not sure what other engines BMW used it as well).
 
Correct, it was Nikasil not Alusil. And besides, US gasoline has been low sulfur for years, any engine that could have been affected was damaged long ago. Your motor oil choice would not affect the problem anyway.

But I agree about using an LL-01 oil such as M1 0W-40. With the low price at Walmart why wouldn't you?
 
M1 0W40 or Castrol 0W40.
That engine is design around W40 weights. In 90's 99% of European engines were running on that weight.
Using 20W50 is just ridiculous if everything is OK with gaskets etc.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
If it specs a 50 weight,you can always use a 5W50.


In the Florida summer...what is written above.
 
Originally Posted By: otownbmw
So 0w-40 even in the summer heat?
I'd use 20w-50. It's Florida, not Fairbanks. What's the book say? If it's like my BMW bike of that vintage even 10W-50 is only suggested for the low 90's. We have a 633CSI under rehab here and the book for it suggests almost exactly the same oil weights as my bike book.
 
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I think you'll be fine with M1 0W40 even in Florida summer.

It's the factory fill for the Nissan GTR and used in other high performance cars. It can handle heat and racing.
 
Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
I think you'll be fine with M1 0W40 even in Florida summer.

It's the factory fill for the Nissan GTR and used in other high performance cars. It can handle heat and racing.
The BM is 20 years old. Did you notice?
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
I think you'll be fine with M1 0W40 even in Florida summer.

It's the factory fill for the Nissan GTR and used in other high performance cars. It can handle heat and racing.
The BM is 20 years old. Did you notice?


So? LL-01 is now a 14 year old spec and yet still "current"
21.gif
 
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