Rust Stop Spray & Rubber Adhesives/Seals

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niero

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I've been looking at options for stopping rust, and also rubber coating or adhesive.
Quick Glance - I'm looking for a stop rust sealant, and a good all-purpose automotive adhesive/sealant.
Need to be proactive about preserving the body and mech. parts.

Issue #1.
Are stop rust products like this good? I'm concerned that they cover the rusted area, but may not stop it, and so the rust gets worse and you don't notice it.
http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP229-Rust-Convertor-Can/dp/B002NUABUO/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_z

(I've heard those plastic bug/rock shields you put on the tip of your car's hood can actually trap water/grime, and cause rust. Thought the same principle might apply to underside parts like diff, axles, exhaust, etc.)



Issue #2.
I'm considering some of the rubber coating products similar such as this:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81833-Rub...=rubber+sealant

and this:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82099-Spr...=rubber+sealant

If there are some small leaks here or there in engine, or even on the body, I want to have a quick option handy. I agree that ultimately it's best to find the where and why of the prob, and fix it right. But that's not always an option w/ $$.

My concern is the same as above - protecting from salt/grime or attaching a broken piece, but actually giving a safe environment for the rust to go wild.


Thanks in advance if you're able to respond.
 
OK, for issue #1, the product you list looks like "Extend" from Loctite (maybe Permatex) and its good for something like a rusty trailer. You wire brush some of the rust off and then use two coats of that stuff. If you are looking for something to spray under the vehicle then Carwell or FF or Krown are a better choice.

The best treatment for rust cannot be sanded as it would ruin the hard shell treatment it provides locking out moisture/air from the rust. POR-15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator are like that. You can paint over them, but should not sand them once applied.
 
Thanks, Donald. Never heard of those. I'll look 'em up.

For rusty transfer case/diff, would you recommend the "do not sand" rust stop, or is the "wire brush rust stop" okay?

Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: niero
Thanks, Donald. Never heard of those. I'll look 'em up.

For rusty transfer case/diff, would you recommend the "do not sand" rust stop, or is the "wire brush rust stop" okay?

Thanks!


Either of the products could be used, but keep in mind that while you do not need to get it rust free, you do need to get it free of oil and grease.

The real consideration would be am I just looking to stop rust, or is it something I will be looking at also. And maybe how hot it gets.

I would be inclined to use Carwell or FF. on anything under the vehicle.

Keep in mind that Carwell or FF are not permanent. In the harsh environment under a vehicle they need to be reapplied.
 
If you are looking for something to spray under the vehicle then Carwell or FF or Krown are a better choice.

FF is Fluid Film / great stuff
I use Fluid Film and put it on as heavy as I can.
If I had a newer vehicle, I'd look into Carwell or Krone (done by a Shop).
Reason: I believe it's put on thinner / have done each year.
 
I've had great success with POR-15 if I need to spot treat a rusty patch. I have an old truck, and things like the bottom of the doors, an wheel well, etc. start to develop rust and I've used POR-15 with great results.

The key, I think, is to use their surface prep solution. I've analyzed it in my lab, and it's just phosphoric acid with zinc oxide dissolved in it, so I made my own. The acid dissolves the rust, and the zinc will plate onto the activated steel surface, acting as a sacrificial anode. It works quite well.

I keep the rust repair area wet with prep solution for several hours. Up to 8-10 hours, then rinse gently with copious amount of water, quickly blot dry, and then rinse with acetone to remove all moisture. Then apply the POR-15 sealant.
 
Originally Posted By: ronbo
Originally Posted By: Donald
Not sure what is available in MN. Carwell sells their products to anyone but has only two shops in NY (western). Krown is mainly in Canada. FF is around more.


There is also a Krown in WNY
50 Burkhardt Avenue
Depew, NY 140432736 -
Phone: (716) 686-9133
http://www.manta.com/c/mm5n6h0/krown-rust-control


But the OP was in MN, and I am thinking that even western NY is far from MN, unless things have moved recently.
 
http://www.autogeek.net/s1tocycoprae.html

S-100 Corrosion Protectant. Sprays on clear and absolutely stops rust that is there and prevents rust from forming on all unpainted metals. I use in under all my vehicles and under the hood as well. Found out about this when selling HD bikes in VA. Not a spec of corrosion on bikes treated every 6 months or so. Kept the engines in my salt water Yacht looking factory new from day one. When I sold it, the buyer thought I had new engines installed. Try it, you will not be disappointed.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
http://www.autogeek.net/s1tocycoprae.html

S-100 Corrosion Protectant. Sprays on clear and absolutely stops rust that is there and prevents rust from forming on all unpainted metals. I use in under all my vehicles and under the hood as well. Found out about this when selling HD bikes in VA. Not a spec of corrosion on bikes treated every 6 months or so. Kept the engines in my salt water Yacht looking factory new from day one. When I sold it, the buyer thought I had new engines installed. Try it, you will not be disappointed.


How many cans does it take to treat the bottom of an average car? Does it come in anything other than 7.2 ounce spray bombs? Quarts would be great.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
http://www.autogeek.net/s1tocycoprae.html

S-100 Corrosion Protectant. Sprays on clear and absolutely stops rust that is there and prevents rust from forming on all unpainted metals. I use in under all my vehicles and under the hood as well. Found out about this when selling HD bikes in VA. Not a spec of corrosion on bikes treated every 6 months or so. Kept the engines in my salt water Yacht looking factory new from day one. When I sold it, the buyer thought I had new engines installed. Try it, you will not be disappointed.


How many cans does it take to treat the bottom of an average car? Does it come in anything other than 7.2 ounce spray bombs? Quarts would be great.


I don't spray anything but unpainted metal parts and fasteners. For example, the majority of the underside of my 2001 Ram never showed any sign of rust or corrosion on the painted panels in the 14 years I owned the truck. I used the S-100 only on the unpainted fasteners, suspension parts, differentials and axels, etc. It is especially effective on aluminum parts. Under the hood, there is a lot of plastic, so not much to do. If you want to be precise in some areas (like the engine compartment) instead of spraying directly on the surface, spray the product in a plastic cup and "paint" on with a foam brush. Works very well. I did the whole underside and engine compartment of my Ram 1500 with about 1/3 of a can.
 
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I had no idea they had so many options.

Looking to be proactive, but I don't have any badly rusted out parts yet.
I think I'll try to stay away from the acid treatments for now. I may do that down the line. But I mainly want a single spray I can put on to stop/prevent rust. I'm sure I'll have to reapply it every couple months.

I couldn't get to a place (nor afford) the Krown or Carwell.
Thinking maybe Fluid Film or S100.


S-100 -
Can I use just the corrosion spray, or does it have to have the cleaner sprayed on first?
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=S100%20Total%20Cycle%20Corrosion



Edit: Okay, maybe this isn't practical, but what about vinegar? Soaking metal screws and such in vinegar removes the rust. Applying it would be a challenge under the car, though.

Thoughts?
 
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Vinegar will accelerate rust over the long haul.

If you try soaking a rusted part in vinegar with a portion of the part above the water line, it'll rust there faster while it removes rust from below the line.
 
Originally Posted By: HangFire
Vinegar will accelerate rust over the long haul.

If you try soaking a rusted part in vinegar with a portion of the part above the water line, it'll rust there faster while it removes rust from below the line.


Do you mean that the vinegar fumes will rust the exposed portion?

What about baking soda? Can you soak a rusty screw in vinegar, then later in baking soda to counteract it?
 
Originally Posted By: niero


S-100 -
Can I use just the corrosion spray, or does it have to have the cleaner sprayed on first?


Since you don't have a lot of badly rusted parts, the cleaner is not necessary. What I would do in your case is spray off any dirt you have with a pressure washer (if you don't have one, then go to one of those wash it yourself places with a spray wands. Let the vehicle dry thoroughly for a day or two and then apply S-100. I usually hit any vulnerable spots about once every 6 months or so.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: niero
Originally Posted By: HangFire
Vinegar will accelerate rust over the long haul.

If you try soaking a rusted part in vinegar with a portion of the part above the water line, it'll rust there faster while it removes rust from below the line.


Do you mean that the vinegar fumes will rust the exposed portion?


Not sure about fumes, but the wet part at/above the meniscus will rust.
Originally Posted By: niero

What about baking soda? Can you soak a rusty screw in vinegar, then later in baking soda to counteract it?

It will only counteract part of it. Baking soda has sodium, so you need to do more than neutralize the acid, you need to remove the baking soda, too.

I add salt to vinegar to aggressively dissolve the rust, but then a thorough hot water rinse and scrub is required to get all the sodium off. Then, wire brush or sand, clean and degrease, heat blue, paint, or use the rust preventer of your choice.
 
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