Parts for cylinder head rebuild? Process?

[92saturnsl2]

I have an '04 Odyssey which I'm repairing head gaskets on. I've pulled both cylinder heads and am ready to take them to the machine shop and have them checked for flatness. I want to have these cylinder heads reconditioned, but I'm not sure what that entails. This is the first time I've done head gaskets, and given all the work I've put in thus far, I want to put the cylinder heads back in as "refreshed" as possible, within reason.

What I'm not sure is how far the machine shop will go in rebuilding the head, or what work I can do on my own. I don't really know what a valve "grind" entails, replacing guides, seals, etc. mean, as I haven't taken the cylinder head apart (and not sure if I should, given that the machine shop will be doing some work to it).

Typically when you approach a cylinder head rebuild, what work does the machine shop do, and what is done in the garage? What parts should I order ahead of time? Are there parts I will need to supply to the machine shop? Should I buy new valves, cam, or is replacing hard parts unnecessary?

Any info describing a typical rebuild, the different steps, and about how much the machine shop work would cost would be much appreciated. I have plenty of mechanical ability (or I wouldn't be attempting a head gasket repair), I've just never dove into the inside of a modern DOHC cylinder head before.

This was a used vehicle purchase where I discovered a leaking head gasket after purchasing it. The head gasket leak was only leaking compression into the cooling system. No oil or coolant mixing together, just would burn off coolant at a slow rate, and I'd have to top it off every couple hundred miles or it would overheat. Some bubbling into the overflow tank. Looking at old service records, the brought it into have an overheat condition diagnosed and the mechanic just threw parts at it. So presumably, it was driven while overheating long enough to warp the head and/or take out the head gasket. Only the front bank is affected, but I'm doing both while I have it all apart. Please educate me, thanks in advance!

 

[Chris142]

Tell them to ck them out and tell you what they need and how much. Do not skimp on them now! If they say they need guides,do the guides, valves etc! I got bit once by cheapening out and I was pulling the heads back off 5 weeks later.

 

[cptbarkey]

in a few months i plan on redoing head gaskets on the xterra. this ebay auction has a decent description on what you should expect/ask for when having the heads worked over. good luck.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201304863319?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: 92saturnsl2
Typically when you approach a cylinder head rebuild, what work does the machine shop do, and what is done in the garage? What parts should I order ahead of time? Are there parts I will need to supply to the machine shop? Should I buy new valves, cam, or is replacing hard parts unnecessary?


The machinist will check to see if the valves and the valve seats need to be ground. When the valve closes, there needs to be a perfect seal between the valve face and the valve seat so that there's no loss of compression when both valves are closed. The machinist will also check the valve guides to see if they need replacing. The machinist supplies all his own parts.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Any tips on finding the best machine shop for the job? I don't want to shop on price aline. I've had hard time getting word of mouth references-- few people I know have done work on old OHV hotrods, but that's apples and oranges.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: 92saturnsl2
Any tips on finding the best machine shop for the job?


I know the perfect machinist if you're willing to ship the heads to Missouri.

 

[AKhan87]

do it yourself, get the OTC large valve spring compressor (fairly cheap I think), get a skinny magnet, compress the spring and remove the valve keepers, take the valves to a wire wheel (installed onto a bench grinder), the wire wheel will remove all the carbon build up without causing any damage to the hardened valves, then take a long valve stem removal pliers and remove all the valve seals, making sure the left over rubber is removed as well, install the now cleaned up valves and then take a socket that is in within the size of the valve seal, and tap in the valve seals using a rubber mallet, then press back the valve spring back into place.

take a steel brush and spray brake parts cleaner into the intake and exhaust ports, and clean up any build up (takes 10-15 minutes).

Any variable valve timing solenoids, should be removed and cleaned up with brake parts cleaner and re-installed, including their filters.

Do this after the heads have been checked for flatness, I'm sure I'm missing some details as I'm explaining it to the best from memory.

Valve Clearance: I have only checked it once on my first rebuild, since then I put back the valve lifter(if your engine has them) to the same spot and I have never had any engine issues. I'm at 20 rebuilds since July 2014, so far no issues.

If you have any questions, message me and I will try my best to answers them for you, it takes me an hour now to do head work.

 

[Smoky14]

Also don't forget to check the block deck for straight. I've seen lots of perfect heads put on bad cyl blocks and all your money was for nothing.
Smoky

 

[Donald]

I would ask an indy mechanic if you have one, maybe someone at NAPA.

The seats may need to be ground which is probably not something your going to do at home. They will also be hot tanked in a cleaner and will come back so clean you could eat off them.