2011 Duramax 12,200 km Duron 30

[Shannow]

I started a thread years ago on whether an SAE 30 or 15W40 given the same additive package would do better/worse, and I'm still convinced that I'd run Delvac 1630 in everything if I could buy in smaller volumes than 205L...

re the performance on the piston squirters, the Duron SAE 30 will perform better in squirters than Delo400 (as an example)....the squirters work on pressure/density/kinematic (not HTHS) viscosity, and the Duron is thinner at every temperature down to freezing (and below).

 

[dustyroads]

Thanks for posting the uoa, used_Oil. It looks like a great oil but as you've noted yourself, not the best for cold starts.

Ash level was brought up, but isn't it listed at 1.0 % ? That is the limit for CJ-4 so no problem there, right?

Looks like it thickened up a bit. That's hard to say for sure without a voa from the same batch and same lab. I'm only comparing PC's listed viscosity to yours.

Again, thanks for sharing the info.

 

[userfriendly]

The SAE 30 followed SAE 40 which would thicken the oil
somewhat.
Parking up hill and jacking the passenger side up
does not get all the oil out of the engine.
My make up oil of one liter was SAE 50.

I'm convinced that most engines can operate on SAE 20
including the Duramax, but I have to watch my "W"
rating and HTHS.
As I move down in KV100, the additive package becomes
more important, as discussed elsewhere on this site.

That is why the Cat TO-4 (train oil, as in drive-train)
and Shannow's mention of Mobil 1630.
Not exactly budget priced lubricants, but give piece of
mind when experimenting with lower KV100 numbers.

Also look at Mobil's SHO 5w40 and MX 15W40 or offerings
from other brands.
Near zero oil consumption is important to prevent emission
system damage including a shortened cat life when using
high SAPS engine oil.

The high zinc in the UOA may not be active ZDDP, but
residue that is no longer part of the additive package.

 

[userfriendly]

Read the engine warm-up discussion in technical
and white papers, then come back here.

What is the best approach for 150 cold winter starts?
During the warm-up period, there is a period of time
when the oil has thinned, but the heat activated
additives have not "kicked in".

If this is unavoidable, then the thickest oil you can get
away with for the ambient, with the highest VI would be
the best practice.
Or would it?
The use of a thicker oil would be acceptable if an engine
heater was used, but that would not be a practical solution.

Too many "what if's?".

There is the added fuel cost with the thicker
oil along with the electric bill.
A thinner high VI oil may produce less wear when cold,
not need an engine heater and attain better fuel economy.
But allow more wear during the warm-up period and less
engine protection when hot than a thicker oil.

Now we have come around a full circle of cost vs wear.