Last I checked, RP uses a better base oil group than Mobil 1. When did this change? OP there are a lot here who will call RP a boutique oil, or that is is full of "unicorn tears". Long story short, there is a lot of bias but both oils would be fine in your application. Whether RP would be better is up for debate. Buy some of each and see which one works better and you be the judge. When I went from Motorcraft to RP I saw a significant gain in MPG. But YMMV. Good luck!
Toyota - 0w20 Royal Purple vs 0w20 Mobile 1 EP
- Thread starter ItsMeHank
- Start date
- Status
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Last I checked, RP uses a better base oil group than Mobil 1. When did this change? OP there are a lot here who will call RP a boutique oil, or that is is full of "unicorn tears". Long story short, there is a lot of bias but both oils would be fine in your application. Whether RP would be better is up for debate. Buy some of each and see which one works better and you be the judge. When I went from Motorcraft to RP I saw a significant gain in MPG. But YMMV. Good luck!
Their HPS oils are purported to have Group IV base oils used in them. That is not the product we are discussing.
Mobil, unlike Royal Purple, has detailed MSDS sheets where one can glean some useful information regarding base oil composition on many of their lubricants. From those sheets we know that the AFE 0w-20 is ~30% PAO and the EP 0w-20 is ~60% PAO (Group IV).
This is reflected in the MRV specs for those lubricants, which are exceptional. PAO has fantastic cold temperature performance (take a look at Mobil's SpectraSyn PAO base oils from the XOM Chemical website if you want the numbers) and notably NOT the case for the Royal Purple product being discussed, which has a higher MRV than Mobil 1's 0w-40. Absolutely horrific for a 0w-20 lubricant. This means its base oil composition is much "cheaper" than the Mobil products being discussed and is NOT PAO-based.
Last I checked, RP uses a better base oil group than Mobil 1. When did this change? OP there are a lot here who will call RP a boutique oil, or that is is full of "unicorn tears". Long story short, there is a lot of bias but both oils would be fine in your application. Whether RP would be better is up for debate. Buy some of each and see which one works better and you be the judge. When I went from Motorcraft to RP I saw a significant gain in MPG. But YMMV. Good luck!
Their HPS oils are purported to have Group IV base oils used in them. That is not the product we are discussing.
Mobil, unlike Royal Purple, has detailed MSDS sheets where one can glean some useful information regarding base oil composition on many of their lubricants. From those sheets we know that the AFE 0w-20 is ~30% PAO and the EP 0w-20 is ~60% PAO (Group IV).
This is reflected in the MRV specs for those lubricants, which are exceptional. PAO has fantastic cold temperature performance (take a look at Mobil's SpectraSyn PAO base oils from the XOM Chemical website if you want the numbers) and notably NOT the case for the Royal Purple product being discussed, which has a higher MRV than Mobil 1's 0w-40. Absolutely horrific for a 0w-20 lubricant. This means its base oil composition is much "cheaper" than the Mobil products being discussed and is NOT PAO-based.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Last I checked, RP uses a better base oil group than Mobil 1. When did this change? OP there are a lot here who will call RP a boutique oil, or that is is full of "unicorn tears". Long story short, there is a lot of bias but both oils would be fine in your application. Whether RP would be better is up for debate. Buy some of each and see which one works better and you be the judge. When I went from Motorcraft to RP I saw a significant gain in MPG. But YMMV. Good luck!
Their HPS oils are purported to have Group IV base oils used in them. That is not the product we are discussing.
Mobil, unlike Royal Purple, has detailed MSDS sheets where one can glean some useful information regarding base oil composition on many of their lubricants. From those sheets we know that the AFE 0w-20 is ~30% PAO and the EP 0w-20 is ~60% PAO (Group IV).
This is reflected in the MRV specs for those lubricants, which are exceptional. PAO has fantastic cold temperature performance (take a look at Mobil's SpectraSyn PAO base oils from the XOM Chemical website if you want the numbers) and notably NOT the case for the Royal Purple product being discussed, which has a higher MRV than Mobil 1's 0w-40. Absolutely horrific for a 0w-20 lubricant. This means its base oil composition is much "cheaper" than the Mobil products being discussed and is NOT PAO-based.
I recommended the HPS series. I don't see how this conversation got to the API. I would however put the API oil on par with any of the other syn oils off the shelf.
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Last I checked, RP uses a better base oil group than Mobil 1. When did this change? OP there are a lot here who will call RP a boutique oil, or that is is full of "unicorn tears". Long story short, there is a lot of bias but both oils would be fine in your application. Whether RP would be better is up for debate. Buy some of each and see which one works better and you be the judge. When I went from Motorcraft to RP I saw a significant gain in MPG. But YMMV. Good luck!
Their HPS oils are purported to have Group IV base oils used in them. That is not the product we are discussing.
Mobil, unlike Royal Purple, has detailed MSDS sheets where one can glean some useful information regarding base oil composition on many of their lubricants. From those sheets we know that the AFE 0w-20 is ~30% PAO and the EP 0w-20 is ~60% PAO (Group IV).
This is reflected in the MRV specs for those lubricants, which are exceptional. PAO has fantastic cold temperature performance (take a look at Mobil's SpectraSyn PAO base oils from the XOM Chemical website if you want the numbers) and notably NOT the case for the Royal Purple product being discussed, which has a higher MRV than Mobil 1's 0w-40. Absolutely horrific for a 0w-20 lubricant. This means its base oil composition is much "cheaper" than the Mobil products being discussed and is NOT PAO-based.
I recommended the HPS series. I don't see how this conversation got to the API. I would however put the API oil on par with any of the other syn oils off the shelf.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: jk_636
I recommended the HPS series. I don't see how this conversation got to the API. I would however put the API oil on par with any of the other syn oils off the shelf.
This thread is about the the OP's Toyota, which is spec'd for 0W20. HPS does not come in 0W20.
I recommended the HPS series. I don't see how this conversation got to the API. I would however put the API oil on par with any of the other syn oils off the shelf.
This thread is about the the OP's Toyota, which is spec'd for 0W20. HPS does not come in 0W20.
Here's the VOA for Walmart Royal Purple 5W-30.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/roylprp.htm
Should be similar in 0W-20.
A little more mundane than the API SL HPS RP.
I'd go with the M1EP in a heartbeat.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/roylprp.htm
Should be similar in 0W-20.
A little more mundane than the API SL HPS RP.
I'd go with the M1EP in a heartbeat.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: jk_636
I recommended the HPS series. I don't see how this conversation got to the API. I would however put the API oil on par with any of the other syn oils off the shelf.
I know you recommended the HPS series, but that's not warranty complaint with his vehicle and you acknowledged that. Nor is it, as sir noted, available in 0w-20. My comments are all with respect to the 0w-20 RP product, as they at least have a PDS available for that product. There seems to be no useful information about their somewhat related HPS 5w-20 lubricant, no MRV, CCS, flash, VI, HTHS...etc. Nada. Not sure how one can make a comparison to other products without that information
And no, it is clearly not on-par with the other 0w-20 products on the shelf, it is more than 3x heavier at much below 0C than either of the Mobil siblings, that quite obviously makes it a lesser product, particularly for others in less moderate climates who might be viewing this thread (like myself) looking for the best cold temperature performance.
I recommended the HPS series. I don't see how this conversation got to the API. I would however put the API oil on par with any of the other syn oils off the shelf.
I know you recommended the HPS series, but that's not warranty complaint with his vehicle and you acknowledged that. Nor is it, as sir noted, available in 0w-20. My comments are all with respect to the 0w-20 RP product, as they at least have a PDS available for that product. There seems to be no useful information about their somewhat related HPS 5w-20 lubricant, no MRV, CCS, flash, VI, HTHS...etc. Nada. Not sure how one can make a comparison to other products without that information
And no, it is clearly not on-par with the other 0w-20 products on the shelf, it is more than 3x heavier at much below 0C than either of the Mobil siblings, that quite obviously makes it a lesser product, particularly for others in less moderate climates who might be viewing this thread (like myself) looking for the best cold temperature performance.
With a vehicle over 100k I assumed there was no warranty. If there is, my bad. And a 5-20 would be just fine. That vehicle will NEVER be cold enough for the zero weight to be a factor.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: jk_636
With a vehicle over 100k I assumed there was no warranty. If there is, my bad. And a 5-20 would be just fine. That vehicle will NEVER be cold enough for the zero weight to be a factor.
I don't disagree. But isn't in compliance with what is called for in the owners manual, which is primarily what is being discussed here.
With a vehicle over 100k I assumed there was no warranty. If there is, my bad. And a 5-20 would be just fine. That vehicle will NEVER be cold enough for the zero weight to be a factor.
I don't disagree. But isn't in compliance with what is called for in the owners manual, which is primarily what is being discussed here.
You guys are tough... LOL.
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2014
- Messages
- 4,118
Compliance means nothing to me.
Any current spec full synthetic 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, 5w30, and even 10w30(weather permitting) will work just fine.
Use whatever you want. Compare all your choices and pick one that sounds/feels the best.
Jackpot.... only if the PSF, ATF, BF, coolant, diffs and transfer case have been serviced and topped off as needed.
The only things I hated with my 5.7 was the plastic oil filter cap(easy upgrade to aluminum), enriching the gas refineries, and the JBL amps that kept blowing.
Any current spec full synthetic 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, 5w30, and even 10w30(weather permitting) will work just fine.
Use whatever you want. Compare all your choices and pick one that sounds/feels the best.
Jackpot.... only if the PSF, ATF, BF, coolant, diffs and transfer case have been serviced and topped off as needed.
The only things I hated with my 5.7 was the plastic oil filter cap(easy upgrade to aluminum), enriching the gas refineries, and the JBL amps that kept blowing.
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Use whatever you want. Compare all your choices and pick one that sounds/feels the best.
Jackpot.... only if the PSF, ATF, BF, coolant, diffs and transfer case have been serviced and topped off as needed.
The only things I hated with my 5.7 was the plastic oil filter cap(easy upgrade to aluminum), enriching the gas refineries, and the JBL amps that kept blowing.
It has full service records but never had an ATF change to my knowledge. I have been a big proponent in ATF changes around 30-40K however, this 5.7 seems like a pain in the a$$ to do ATF. No drain plug and dropping the whole pan?? From limited research, I will likely go with the Toyota ATF - I like Redline ATF for my Acura, but Honda ATF sucks and this Toyota ATF seems to have gotten it right.
I changed the rear differential fluid with some Redline. No transfer case on the 4x2.
I am doing all 4 brakes this weekend and will bleed and change out the brake fluid.
PS - haven't done anything
I should probably do a radiator flush and fill
I agree with the oil cartridge sucking - the cheap plastic cap wrench I bought from Advance was "compatible" which apparently meant worked with duct tape shimming. I need to do something different there.
Other than that, I will likely do spark plugs... I assume they were supposed to be changed at 100k, but don't know what the book says.
Use whatever you want. Compare all your choices and pick one that sounds/feels the best.
Jackpot.... only if the PSF, ATF, BF, coolant, diffs and transfer case have been serviced and topped off as needed.
The only things I hated with my 5.7 was the plastic oil filter cap(easy upgrade to aluminum), enriching the gas refineries, and the JBL amps that kept blowing.
It has full service records but never had an ATF change to my knowledge. I have been a big proponent in ATF changes around 30-40K however, this 5.7 seems like a pain in the a$$ to do ATF. No drain plug and dropping the whole pan?? From limited research, I will likely go with the Toyota ATF - I like Redline ATF for my Acura, but Honda ATF sucks and this Toyota ATF seems to have gotten it right.
I changed the rear differential fluid with some Redline. No transfer case on the 4x2.
I am doing all 4 brakes this weekend and will bleed and change out the brake fluid.
PS - haven't done anything
I should probably do a radiator flush and fill
I agree with the oil cartridge sucking - the cheap plastic cap wrench I bought from Advance was "compatible" which apparently meant worked with duct tape shimming. I need to do something different there.
Other than that, I will likely do spark plugs... I assume they were supposed to be changed at 100k, but don't know what the book says.
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2014
- Messages
- 4,118
It should have an ATF drain plug, fill plug, and overflow plug...no dipstick. Just remember to pin the ATF thermostat open and a ATF temp gauge, scan tool, or jumper wire for ATF temp.
Any full synth dex/merc makes a great PSF. Siphon/refill every oil change and you'll be majority new synth atf in a couple years.
Any full synth dex/merc makes a great PSF. Siphon/refill every oil change and you'll be majority new synth atf in a couple years.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
You want to use an inferior oil for more money?
Why not?
If you really have an itch for RP, then scratch it.
I might do the same myself.
I hope your not referring to RP API. It is by no means inferior...
You want to use an inferior oil for more money?
Why not?
If you really have an itch for RP, then scratch it.
I might do the same myself.
I hope your not referring to RP API. It is by no means inferior...
I will add a bit more information to this discussion:
At my local Walmart, the API licensed, Royal Purple 0W20 was marked down to $21 for a 5 quart jug - down from $30. When I confirmed the price with the service manager, he said he would mark it down to $15, if I took all of the remaining 5 jugs on the shelf. I bought all 5.
I also found 2- 5 quart jugs of the old Pennzoil Ultra 5W20 API SN, which that same manager marked to $15. I bought them both.
In hindsight, after reading this discussion, I will be returning the Royal Purple for a refund, and keeping the Ultra. It seems that this Royal Purple give me no advantage over any other over the counter 0W20 (other than price). Do you agree with my conclusion? They also had a couple of clearance jugs of SynPower 0W20 that I left behind for the same price, because I did not know anything about.
I have a Ford Focus & a Ford Fusion Hybrid.
At my local Walmart, the API licensed, Royal Purple 0W20 was marked down to $21 for a 5 quart jug - down from $30. When I confirmed the price with the service manager, he said he would mark it down to $15, if I took all of the remaining 5 jugs on the shelf. I bought all 5.
I also found 2- 5 quart jugs of the old Pennzoil Ultra 5W20 API SN, which that same manager marked to $15. I bought them both.
In hindsight, after reading this discussion, I will be returning the Royal Purple for a refund, and keeping the Ultra. It seems that this Royal Purple give me no advantage over any other over the counter 0W20 (other than price). Do you agree with my conclusion? They also had a couple of clearance jugs of SynPower 0W20 that I left behind for the same price, because I did not know anything about.
I have a Ford Focus & a Ford Fusion Hybrid.
Wish you lived in CA I'd take the RP off your hands with a smile!
Any brand name synthetic is worth more than $3/qt. Royal Purple 0W20 at $3/qt is outstanding buy, and so is Pennzoil Ultra and Synpower.
Given the choice, Mobil 1 EP.
- Status
Similar threads
