Table saw blade guard, Do you use it?
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Not likely the home owner wishing a table saw will pop for a $1400, saw stop set up, then even if needed having to replace an expensive blade and other items.
Factory/cabinet shop, ya that'll work.
Factory/cabinet shop, ya that'll work.
I use it as much as possible. Sometimes the guard just gets in the way.
I remembered seeing a competitive system to Saw Stop, so I looked it up. Bosch has a system where they just drop the blade (well it looks like they actually propel it down):
Here's the video. The video is a bit annoying, but you get the idea:
But it wouldn't stop something like happened to a fellow I know. He's a safe worker, but stuff happens to the best of us. He was cutting a smallish piece of wood and BANG! kickback. The piece of wood fired off his saw, punched a hole in his garage door, and ended up in his neighbors yard.
Here's the video. The video is a bit annoying, but you get the idea:
But it wouldn't stop something like happened to a fellow I know. He's a safe worker, but stuff happens to the best of us. He was cutting a smallish piece of wood and BANG! kickback. The piece of wood fired off his saw, punched a hole in his garage door, and ended up in his neighbors yard.
I have experienced kick back with a lightweight, direct drive, contractors type table saw. The base was kind of wobbly and the motor under powered.
When running out a 2x6 I guess I hit a tough section, the blade laboured, the base shifted which caused the blade to twist and grab. The 2x6 was then fired back.
Fortunately I was standing to the side, not behind the blade, as is my habit.
The saw did have a guard, but in this case it did not help.
When running out a 2x6 I guess I hit a tough section, the blade laboured, the base shifted which caused the blade to twist and grab. The 2x6 was then fired back.
Fortunately I was standing to the side, not behind the blade, as is my habit.
The saw did have a guard, but in this case it did not help.
I also removed my table saw blade guide. It was a cheap plastic one anyway.
I adjust the blade so that teeth are just barely above the wood to minimize kickback and finger exposure. I don't use the guard as it just gets in the way.
I also go to great lengths to make sure the fence is parallel with the blade. Even being slightly out will cause burning and greatly increase chance of kickbacks.
I started with a 1.5 HP "contractor saw" that did not like hardwood and had a fence that was difficult to keep square. Newer 3HP cabinet saw will not bind or stop on hardwood and the fence is much better and safer.
I also go to great lengths to make sure the fence is parallel with the blade. Even being slightly out will cause burning and greatly increase chance of kickbacks.
I started with a 1.5 HP "contractor saw" that did not like hardwood and had a fence that was difficult to keep square. Newer 3HP cabinet saw will not bind or stop on hardwood and the fence is much better and safer.
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