I suspect my brake hose is the problem

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I just ordered new hoses, trying to think of other variables causing my driver rear brakes to stick. I suspected my sticking driver's rear is brake hose related. At first when I noticed by rear brake dragging, I found a seized slide pin, completely frozen inside the metal sleeve within the rubber bushing. Replaced it, cleaned everything and re-greased. I thought that was it.

At assembly, I noticed the piston would not retract at all unless the bleeder was cracked, and this was using a beastly C clamp. I thought nothing of it since it felt fine during the test drive, but after 10 miles of driving it froze up again. It's obvious, since there's an incline near my house and if all is well, I'd roll back down it in neutral. The hoses are probably oem from the year 2000. I think the caliper is fine since it did finally retract pretty easily. It was a reman from Autozone two years ago. Anything else I may have missed?
 
I'm pretty sure AutoZone's calipers have lifetime warranties. I'd take it in and get it replaced under warranty anyways when you do the hoses.
 
And what car is this? Is this one of the ones you have to twist the rear caliper piston back in?
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
And what car is this? Is this one of the ones you have to twist the rear caliper piston back in?


Oops, 00 Celica GTS. The pad guide pins were another thing, they're corroded and I had to pound them out with a screwdriver and hammer. I'm pretty sure they're making the pads stick as well from not floating, but the part where the caliper wouldn't retract unless bleed screw was opened is the biggest problem.

Oh, and no twist, just push in.

DIAGRAM_BRAKES_CALIPERS_REAR.gif
 
You put new pads in, right? You can wedge-shape existing pads with one bad pin and done "right" (wrong) they'll apply themselves.
 
No, current pads have 70% life. I will wire brush the pad guide pins to get them to install simply by hand, because that's what I can do on the other side.
 
If you install a new hose, use some PB Blaster on the connection to the steel brake line before you try and get it loose, else you may snap the steel brake line fitting.

Guide pins should be cleaned, but you should not aggressively try and remove the rust as that means the plating is gone and the pin should be replaced. So clean the pin yes, but if really rusty, replace the pin.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
If you install a new hose, use some PB Blaster on the connection to the steel brake line before you try and get it loose, else you may snap the steel brake line fitting.

Guide pins should be cleaned, but you should not aggressively try and remove the rust as that means the plating is gone and the pin should be replaced. So clean the pin yes, but if really rusty, replace the pin.



Thanks, rounding off or braking the line is what I'm afraid of most. I started this morning, I've been spraying that nut on the hard line with Kroil. I'm going to do this each morning till Wednesday when i think the hoses are coming in the mail.
 
Just want to throw this out there, I know it doesn't apply to BITOGers:

If the master cylinder is overfilled with too much brake fluid it may cause the brakes to hang after going over a bump. I've seen it happen on a Nova and a Ranger.
 
I had a sticking caliper on my 1999 Voyager and took it in thinking it was going to be the caliper, but it was the rubber hose. The hose was old and swollen internally so that when you let off the brakes there was not much cross section for the fluid to return from the caliper piston. At least that is what my mechanic told me. He put a new hose on and it has been fine the last 30,000 or so miles.
 
Could be a hose with an internal kink/obstruction that behaves like a one-way valve. I had such a failure in a brake hose which looked OK on the outside. Brake would grab but not release when the pedal is released. Car pulled to that side and the brake became hot very quickly. A new hose cured it.
 
I had the kinked hose/dragging brake problem, thanks to Merchants Tire & Auto putting a 360 degree twist in the hose during a brake job. That and another error they made got me back into fixing my own cars again!
 
I've had a bad hose hang up a caliper. My mechanic brother-in-law said it wasn't possible for that after replacing the caliper at first, and having the same problem. I returned the caliper, and had the same issue.

One new hose later, all was well. I suspect that was the bug with all 3 in this situation.
 
Yep, hoses can delaminate or corrode inside, or something. They can also shed particles that end up in the wrong place, so they could contaminate a cylinder.
 
Great, thanks for the replies. I have Stoptech SS coming and I just picked up new guide pins. SS lines were only $7 more over each equivalent rubber Centrics.
 
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