grumble, comedy of errors on a saturn whl bearing

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Afternoon, Bobbers...

Last weekend I snuck home, sans plates, a 98 Saturn SW2 I got for $325. I test drove it in the sellers driveway but once I owned it and got over 5 MPH I realized it had horrible, awful front wheel bearings.

No problemo.

I hit up car-part.com and find a pair of spindle/knuckle/hub/bearing assemblies at a yard I've used before. $35. Call the guy. He only has one side and it's $45. I ask him why the website reads $35 and he said the car was under 3 feet of snow.

Fair enough. I hang up.

Hit up advance auto for a pair of chinese bearings. Guy has one store brand and one decent one "with the same number", but also chinese.

Blow my front end apart, don't nick any boots or ball joint stud threads. This was my last gasp of good luck.

Pound out the spindle with an impact socket to fit down its hole. For those unfamiliar with these cars, the lug studdy- part has internal splines that meet the axle and a smooth outside. This gets pounded outwards.

A circlip holds in the bearing which presses out inwards. I use the excuse to buy a 12 ton shop press from Harbor Freight. But I have to go to two stores to find one in stock. The press works splendidly, a Ford 4wd hub socket (2.25 inches) is a perfect arbor.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Here's where the story goes downhill.

The spindle came out with an old bearing race tightly attached. Ball bearings dribble out on my floor. I cut off the race but nick the spindle.

Press in a new bearing, then press in the spindle. It goes in straight but I should have been supporting the other side of the inner part of the bearing, was not, and it explodes and cocks sideways.

Worse, guts from the brand new bearing are stuck to the spindle. Grind them off, nick things some more.

I have another bearing meant for the other side, stick that in. Support it. Things go great.

Go to put it all back on my car, the CV splines jam. Turns out the socket I used at step 1 was too small and galled the splines. I've ruined the 2nd bearing, because I surely can't get it back out of my knuckle without half of it separating.

tl;dr I ordered another pair of bearings plus new spindles from rockauto. And they're the same price as advance's basic bearings. And I can just chuck the old hubs, a source of concern, as I don't know how much "nicking" is structural.

However my new press is pretty sweet.
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PS for the neophyte doing a press-in bearing, get a junkyard spindle, or take yours to a machine shop. Or just be born, not me.
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I have done this before with my 01 sc1. I did not support the inner race when pressing in the spindle. It did not come apart but the bearings only lasted 10k. The next time i used timkens and i fully supported the inner race so no pressure was on the bearing seals. so far so good. I also have the 12 ton press one bearing was so over heated i almost needed a 20 ton.


I'll tell you what helps. Freeze the bearings and teh spindle in the bottom of a chest freezer over night, it makes pressing them into the hub much easier. After pressing in the bearing in the hub, enjoy a beer as it warms up. then take the spindle out of the freezer and press that into the bearing while is supported by a socket from underneath.

Its not the easiest job in the world to do, but you do save some bucks.
I had to buy new spindles as i nicked mine too bad to use.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3368900/saturn_wheel_bearing#Post3368900

p.s. save the bearing pieces like the outer/inner race in case you have to do this again on another car, that can be used to support the outer and inner races
 
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Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Sounds like a fun time


FWIW I got this tool to do my bearings. Between that and a slide hammer, it saves a world of headache. Ground to ground for both rear wheel bearings on my Subaru was around 3 hours in my driveway. It's cake

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-23...48741/203120573



Some auto stores offer this as a free loaner tool. But the job is never complete until you have to buy a new tool, that's half the fun.
 
True that.


I took it into work with me. Going to be great for the rusty ones where every fastener I need to remove is a liability with the potential for breakage. With this one, all it takes it one ball joint off or pop the strut out. Bare minimum needed to get the CV axle out
 
I did mine on the SC2 with no problems. I just got some new bearings from NAPA, and I've also got the 12 ton HF press. The bearings did fall apart, but I found a 2 5/16 trailer ball to be a perfect arbor for that problem.

By the way...If you didn't already know, the axle nut sets the preload on the bearings and needs to be torqued to 148 ft lbs or you'll likely be replacing the bearings again soon.
 
I, like most saturn owners, are about as cheap as they come.

But let my tale be a note of caution, buy the kit with the hub. They're outrageously expensive seperately after the fact, and many portions of the operation are irreversible so you won't be able to return "just the bearing".
 
I passed up a 96 sw2 yesterday. I could have bought it for $350. Body was in good shape, it needed a headliner. The manual trans shifter cable was broken, and it was stuck in third. Before for the cable broke, some jackleg messed with the clutch slave and it had air, you could not clutch it. All things that i can repair easily.

I would have bought it, but when i showed up, the car had been towed to and impound lot and the owner had a title with a 4 inch hole burned in it where it caught fire from a cigarette.
Bad title and on an impound lot at $40 a day, i would have needed to move it that afternoon.

I walked away.
 
Thank you for sharing, Eljefino. Most of us have similar stories of one kind or another and we can empathize. Even the pros experience this on occasion.

Just think how much more character you have now!
 
Most of the repair shops I worked didn't have the proper equipment to press that kind of bearing. We would always subcontract it to the local automotive machinist, and paid $20-$25 per side to get the job done.
 
More bearings!

I'm going through, stem to stern, and nearing the stern.
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I do brake lines from the master cylinder on back. Stupid clamps trapped salt and so the old lines had bubbly rusty "stripes" every foot. Anyway, the wheel cylinders have long since degraded into rusty blobs. The screws holding them are rusty blobs. The bleeders were crumbled iron ore inside the protective rubber cap. I crack open some EZ-outs my sympathetic dad got me for Xmas, they won't grip. Feh.

I'll be replacing with a junkyard knuckle and all included parts, though with a new cylinder, of course. For the best: you'll notice the backside of the wheel bearing rusted out. When I spin the tire, I can see stuff moving around in there. Yet this one is quiet and has no slop.
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All service parts are cheap enough for this thing except one unicorn: the backing plate. Those are $70. Not beemer money but a lot for a stamped bit of steel. This is the motivation for a junkyard part.

DSC_0064_zpsyehx9jl3.jpg

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Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Sounds like a fun time


FWIW I got this tool to do my bearings. Between that and a slide hammer, it saves a world of headache. Ground to ground for both rear wheel bearings on my Subaru was around 3 hours in my driveway. It's cake

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-23...48741/203120573

I dont think those are strong enough to get frozen races out.
 
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