New headlights for Old Car

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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Bite the bullet and add some aftermarket lights. Dan Stern.com has good info. Some cars are just not that good from the factory. I miss the days when one could just replace a 7 inch or 5.75 with a Hella or Cibe H4 E Code and be done with it, and cars had some structure in the front to add fog or "driving" lamps.


I put in Sylvania xtravision and see a big improvement. I will drive with them for a while and decide if I want to upgrade to the Philip's 9012's. I am embarrassed to say I had totally forgotten about my fog lights. I thought they came on automatically but realize they have a separate switch. I suspect turning them on will be a big help, especially in rainy weather.
 
Hello, wrcsixeight said, "...most....could benefit from a proper re aiming of their headlamps, and most who try and DIY this procedure fail miserably and are a likely a night time driving menace who will tell you how great their white/blue lights are."

MY 2¢: 1) Headlights rarely go off target. When you see a badly aimed bulb I'd bet it's either the result of a fender bender (where an adjustment would be required) or a bulb jammed crookedly into place and plugged in.
The plastic junk called focusing knobs on every headlight I've ever seen is just waiting to break. You're likely better off not touching them.

2) The aging population who leave their brights on and inconsiderate drivers (either super-cools or mere dopes) who install extra bright headlights are the biggest menaces.

Also, regarding the OP being unfamiliar with his "fog lights"; Don't be surprised if factory fog lights do little. I've found factory fogs to be mostly decorative. I assume they make them weak so there are no cases of complaint from any party. I believe auto companies are expert at managing their callback load. Kira
 
Sometimes a good European fog lamp can be fitted into a stock "decoration" fog lamp location and bracket. It's always worth a look. Hella makes some interesting stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
Hello, wrcsixeight said, "...most....could benefit from a proper re aiming of their headlamps, and most who try and DIY this procedure fail miserably and are a likely a night time driving menace who will tell you how great their white/blue lights are."

MY 2¢: 1) Headlights rarely go off target. When you see a badly aimed bulb I'd bet it's either the result of a fender bender (where an adjustment would be required) or a bulb jammed crookedly into place and plugged in.
The plastic junk called focusing knobs on every headlight I've ever seen is just waiting to break. You're likely better off not touching them.

2) The aging population who leave their brights on and inconsiderate drivers (either super-cools or mere dopes) who install extra bright headlights are the biggest menaces.

Also, regarding the OP being unfamiliar with his "fog lights"; Don't be surprised if factory fog lights do little. I've found factory fogs to be mostly decorative. I assume they make them weak so there are no cases of complaint from any party. I believe auto companies are expert at managing their callback load. Kira


Yes, I tried my fog lights last night and they added very little. I like the Sylvania xtravision but will probably get the Philip's HIR 9012's as they seem to be universally praised as a major upgrade.
 
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Our older cars/trucks do experience from a loss of current to the headlights. As a VW tech, I learned to perform a test commonly called a "voltage drop test". Basically, with a DVOM one would use the DVOM and hook up the positive to the battery positive post and the negative to the backside of the headlight, either hi or lo beam. With the headlight turned on the DVOM will do the math and show on the meter face what the voltage drop is. This would be the total drop in this circuit. One would then use the same method to test any individual circuit the same way, and a simple explanation for this would be across the fuse. I believe an acceptable voltage drop per circuit, such as across that fuse is 0.1volt (1/10 of a volt). The key here is that the circuit tested has to be energized, such as the headlights on.
One can go to youtube and type in voltage drop to see it performed.
Hope this helps, Bill.
 
Originally Posted By: VWguy
Our older cars/trucks do experience from a loss of current to the headlights. As a VW tech, I learned to perform a test commonly called a "voltage drop test". Basically, with a DVOM one would use the DVOM and hook up the positive to the battery positive post and the negative to the backside of the headlight, either hi or lo beam. With the headlight turned on the DVOM will do the math and show on the meter face what the voltage drop is. This would be the total drop in this circuit. One would then use the same method to test any individual circuit the same way, and a simple explanation for this would be across the fuse. I believe an acceptable voltage drop per circuit, such as across that fuse is 0.1volt (1/10 of a volt). The key here is that the circuit tested has to be energized, such as the headlights on.
One can go to youtube and type in voltage drop to see it performed.
Hope this helps, Bill.


Thanks. I posted the voltage drops earlier in this thread.
 
just a thought. new light units are great, and I have gotten numerous Chinese units that turned out well, esp. as buying an OEM IS INCREDIBLY expensive, so you are often comparing a Chinese unit to keeping the old unit. NOW, other thoughts. If you wear glasses, use a non scratched clear lens, not a tinted or varilux, which never gets 100% clear. Clean the inside and outside glass frequently, cut down on smoking both for film on glass and oxygen deprivation. If really in to it, wear sunglasses an hour before driving, then clear glasses when driving. Think of pilot ready rooms on aircraft carriers, and you see red lights, not super bright flourescents. and yes, new bulbs help. Prefer Phillips to the American version of silverstar.
 
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Wife commented how dim the low beams are on my 15+ year old Toyota Avalon. I figured she was just used to the super bright xenon lights on her 2010 MDX. Her comment motivated me to do some research and it appears new lights could make a noticeable improvement over 15 year old factory lights. I am looking for 9006 HB4's. Can I go with any name brand or do I need something to match the lens in my Avalon? Thanks.

PS. What about these Hella's on special from Tirerack? Factory bulbs are halogen. Will these xenon's work?
http://www.tirerack.com/lighting/detail.jsp?ID=1013


I think it's the reflector design. Lots of cars had terrible headlights in the '90s.

hotwheels
 
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