Questions on adding a coolant filter

[natenkiki2004]

Finally got it installed after going through several configurations and figuring out how best to route the lines. I did set it up as a bypass filter, not in-line with the heater core. Also used 2 ball valves that I can turn off in case something goes wrong with the filter housing or heater core.

Before anyone says anything, yes, the line on top of the filter IS the highest point in the cooling system so there might be an issue bleeding. However, I did a test run and ran the engine before opening the ball valves. I opened them as the engine was running to give the air a good push. The lines heated up quickly so I don't think it's a huge issue. Before I even started the engine, I squeezed several hoses to bleed air out by hand, seeing many bubbles come up to the radiator. After running the engine a while, I'm getting more bubbles into the reservoir, it seems to be bleeding nicely.

I had planned on keeping the lines low but after going through several plans on pipe routing, this was the best one I could come up with.

Here's pictures, naturally I painted everything Ford blue:

 

[53' Stude]

It looks like a good setup, CONGRATS

 

[natenkiki2004]

2 things to note after I installed this filter;

- The filter is super effective. I no longer see the Bars Stop Leak floating in the coolant. I'm glad to have it out, except not long after installing the filter, it also removed the particles clogging the lower intake gasket coolant passage leak. Oh well, had to be done sooner or later. That was hundreds of miles ago and with new gaskets, there's no oil/coolant wetness anywhere so I'm happy.

- Every so often I'll cycle the valves. Close them & open them. Just in case something builds up on the edge, I want to keep them free and moving. Probably totally unnecessary but I do it when I check the oil and look things over. The last time I did it was right before hauling a heavy trailer (unloaded but 20ft+ and made of thick steel) about 15 miles or so. During the trip, my temp gauge would go to the top end of NORMAL pretty quickly then slowly go back down. It did this maybe half a dozen times. It never got to the red zone but I was close to turning the engine off once or twice. The next day, I had the same issue even without the trailer. I couldn't figure what caused it until I noticed I had closed the suction side of the line going back to the water pump. It shouldn't have overheated the engine, the radiator & it's lines were still free flowing. But it must have done something weird and caused some feedback or something internally to the heater core line. My guess is maybe flow was limited or disturbed at the top of the lower intake where the heater core feed line comes out. This didn't turn out to be dangerous or detrimental but more curiously odd. Opening the valve again has the coolant flowing properly and temps in their normal spot.


I don't know how many miles I have on the filter but the system has worked as desired. Now I just need to find an excuse to get an all-aluminum radiator

 

[DoubleWasp]

Glad it's worked out for you. I love mine Contaminated systems that won't flush out are a perfect application for these.

 

[Snoman002]

You mentioned disposal a few times. Although it may not apply for all areas, and certainly not on a septic tank, around here you can dispose of coolant in the toilet.

 

[maximus]

Seems like an awful waste of time for a 91 Explorer, unless this is some kind of prized, show vehicle.