I think Pennzoil Ultra every 5,000 miles would be the cleanest you can get for that mileage goal.
Any varnish or accumulation would be the fault of engine design.
Any varnish or accumulation would be the fault of engine design.
Which oil for a spotless engine?
- Thread starter Merkava_4
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The answer is very simple, there is no such oil. If you want ZERO deposits, you park the car and never turn on the engine.
To think that a gasoline IC engine can be operated and have no deposits of any kind is silly.
To think that a gasoline IC engine can be operated and have no deposits of any kind is silly.
Hello, 19jacobob93 wins this morning's prize with:
"Have you tried Coca Cola? I heard it's good for cleaning a lot of things and of course it's 100% synthetic!".
PLUS, the suggestion BREAKS NEW GROUND--I never heard of poisoning an engine before (you can tell I'm no fan of fizzy drinks) Kira
"Have you tried Coca Cola? I heard it's good for cleaning a lot of things and of course it's 100% synthetic!".
PLUS, the suggestion BREAKS NEW GROUND--I never heard of poisoning an engine before (you can tell I'm no fan of fizzy drinks) Kira
I retired an '88 Cougar w/3.8 at 300K miles that I purchased brand new. (This car didn't have any head gasket problems) The engine was still good, but everything else on the car was nickel-and-dimeing me to death. I pulled the engine on it and there were no deposits whatsoever. The inside of the valve covers were spotless and there wasn't even any deposits in the oil pan sump or lifter valley. I did change the pvc valve quite often, but nothing was ever changed internally and it was a very reliable car. While I drove this car, I never had an oil pan or valve covers off.
I was a little meticulous about oil changes back then and I changed it about every 2K or 2.5K miles. I also used about every name-brand oil under the sun and it was probably a different brand every time. I also used mostly cheap Fram or Motorcraft filters, but I remember quite a few other brands on there also.
I was a little meticulous about oil changes back then and I changed it about every 2K or 2.5K miles. I also used about every name-brand oil under the sun and it was probably a different brand every time. I also used mostly cheap Fram or Motorcraft filters, but I remember quite a few other brands on there also.
Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
You may not need to go as short as 5k. Saw these pictures on another forum. Of course YMMV.
7.5k OCIs:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=16510056&postcount=104
By comparison 15k OCIs:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=14074013&postcount=1
I'd say the first guy didn't use castrol. The 2nd guy obviously used castrol oil. BMW oil is made by castrol and always seems to turn engines yellow/orange.
You may not need to go as short as 5k. Saw these pictures on another forum. Of course YMMV.
7.5k OCIs:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=16510056&postcount=104
By comparison 15k OCIs:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=14074013&postcount=1
I'd say the first guy didn't use castrol. The 2nd guy obviously used castrol oil. BMW oil is made by castrol and always seems to turn engines yellow/orange.
Cleanest engine I've ever seen used plain Shell oil in the white bottle. It was absolutely and positively spotless.
Also, as mentioned above, the PCV is key as well. I soak my PCVs in acetone at every oil change to keep them clean. This was something I recently learned about.
Also, as mentioned above, the PCV is key as well. I soak my PCVs in acetone at every oil change to keep them clean. This was something I recently learned about.
Mine is as clean as you say you want it after 216k and all synthetic. Usually the runs are 10k with PP.
Fresh oil.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: wemay
Any top brand, major synthetic.
What would be the OCI ? Keep in mind it would need to be changed often enough so that absolutely no trace of varnish has any chance to form anywhere.
I think the vehicle and how its driven as well as the interval the oil is changed has a lot to do with it.
I read here hundreds of times that dino oil changed at 5K intervals, or 4K intervals would keep an engine clean. I have pics of religious 3K dino intervals and varnish galore in well under 100K miles, in a well maintained engine. Bottom line, is blanket statements with dino or synthetic oils don't always cut it.
Originally Posted By: wemay
Any top brand, major synthetic.
What would be the OCI ? Keep in mind it would need to be changed often enough so that absolutely no trace of varnish has any chance to form anywhere.
I think the vehicle and how its driven as well as the interval the oil is changed has a lot to do with it.
I read here hundreds of times that dino oil changed at 5K intervals, or 4K intervals would keep an engine clean. I have pics of religious 3K dino intervals and varnish galore in well under 100K miles, in a well maintained engine. Bottom line, is blanket statements with dino or synthetic oils don't always cut it.
10000 mile intervals with whatever syn happened to be on sale has every engine in my work and personal stable spotless inside without any varnish or deposits to be seen.
So in my experience once an engine is clean its easy to keep it that way.
So in my experience once an engine is clean its easy to keep it that way.
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
You may not need to go as short as 5k. Saw these pictures on another forum. Of course YMMV.
7.5k OCIs:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=16510056&postcount=104
By comparison 15k OCIs:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=14074013&postcount=1
I'd say the first guy didn't use castrol. The 2nd guy obviously used castrol oil. BMW oil is made by castrol and always seems to turn engines yellow/orange.
I suspect the first is M1 0W40 but you'll have to ask if you want to be 100% certain. I've seen other pictures where M1 0W40 was used and it was clear.
Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
You may not need to go as short as 5k. Saw these pictures on another forum. Of course YMMV.
7.5k OCIs:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=16510056&postcount=104
By comparison 15k OCIs:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=14074013&postcount=1
I'd say the first guy didn't use castrol. The 2nd guy obviously used castrol oil. BMW oil is made by castrol and always seems to turn engines yellow/orange.
I suspect the first is M1 0W40 but you'll have to ask if you want to be 100% certain. I've seen other pictures where M1 0W40 was used and it was clear.
I go 8000 miles on my redline oil. I randomly do oil analysis with super results.
I ended up going with Quaker State Full Synthetic today.
I was gonna try Mobil 1 HM, but I only had $34 in my pocket for 6 quarts.
Hopefully the Quaker State will keep my engine clean for the next 3600 miles.
I was gonna try Mobil 1 HM, but I only had $34 in my pocket for 6 quarts.
Hopefully the Quaker State will keep my engine clean for the next 3600 miles.
I was obsessive about my first new car. It got totaled a year later. Since then, I don't obsess. Cars depreciate are worth a little less each day. When the time comes that I need to open up the engine, that will be when it's time to get a new car. If I get 300k miles on the car, I don't care what it looks like inside as long as it runs well.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I ended up going with Quaker State Full Synthetic today.
I was gonna try Mobil 1 HM, but I only had $34 in my pocket for 6 quarts.
Hopefully the Quaker State will keep my engine clean for the next 3600 miles.
No union 76?
QSUD is good stuff. If I didnt have a stash, it'd be my go to synthetic.
I ended up going with Quaker State Full Synthetic today.
I was gonna try Mobil 1 HM, but I only had $34 in my pocket for 6 quarts.
Hopefully the Quaker State will keep my engine clean for the next 3600 miles.
No union 76?
QSUD is good stuff. If I didnt have a stash, it'd be my go to synthetic.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I ended up going with Quaker State Full Synthetic today.
I was gonna try Mobil 1 HM, but I only had $34 in my pocket for 6 quarts.
Hopefully the Quaker State will keep my engine clean for the next 3600 miles.
You should have picked up some Trop Artic and you would have had enough money left over to get a pizza and rent a movie. Then you would of had a full belly, a clean engine and some entertainment to boot, or you could have bought two OCI's Worth!
I ended up going with Quaker State Full Synthetic today.
I was gonna try Mobil 1 HM, but I only had $34 in my pocket for 6 quarts.
Hopefully the Quaker State will keep my engine clean for the next 3600 miles.
You should have picked up some Trop Artic and you would have had enough money left over to get a pizza and rent a movie. Then you would of had a full belly, a clean engine and some entertainment to boot, or you could have bought two OCI's Worth!
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
No union 76?
QSUD is good stuff. If I didnt have a stash, it'd be my go to synthetic.
I had a helluva time making up my mind. I went to this one Walmart on the rich side of town that has a real good oil selection. They even had full 5 quart bottles of Chevron Supreme with the matching single quart bottles to go with them; I couldn't believe it. I also came real close to picking up two bottles of Delo 400 10W-30 synthetic blend. They were $15 a gallon. But I've heard real good stories on here about Quaker State full synthetic being a real quiet oil, so I ultimately went with that.
No union 76?
QSUD is good stuff. If I didnt have a stash, it'd be my go to synthetic.
I had a helluva time making up my mind. I went to this one Walmart on the rich side of town that has a real good oil selection. They even had full 5 quart bottles of Chevron Supreme with the matching single quart bottles to go with them; I couldn't believe it. I also came real close to picking up two bottles of Delo 400 10W-30 synthetic blend. They were $15 a gallon. But I've heard real good stories on here about Quaker State full synthetic being a real quiet oil, so I ultimately went with that.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: CT8
Why does an engine need to be spotless?
Because I'm the mechanic type and everything has to be clean. I spend 95% of the time cleaning and 5% of the time doing the actual repair.
There is no reason the engine has to be spotless to last as long as it may.
Originally Posted By: CT8
Why does an engine need to be spotless?
Because I'm the mechanic type and everything has to be clean. I spend 95% of the time cleaning and 5% of the time doing the actual repair.
There is no reason the engine has to be spotless to last as long as it may.
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