Want to use MMO to clean neglected engine.Confused
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Vikas
He used the same method with other chemicals which were supposedly designed specifically to work with aluminium and MMO resulted in lot better results.
Probably the oil in it makes it "shinier". As I said, the real polishing action is from the abrasive. I welcome you to try it out. I've got a lot of experience with both polishing/cleaning aluminum as well as scotchbrite pads.
You want to really clean aluminum, a paste cleaner with a wheel will make it shine like chrome. A light goings over with a scotchbrite beforehand (careful not to remove too much material) on a drill preps the surface if it is heavily oxidized.
The great part about the pastes is they also contain a wax usually, so the surface stays polished a lot longer than just using a spray on cleaner (most of which are designed to clean coated wheels, so not actually designed to clean aluminum, but clear coat).
He used the same method with other chemicals which were supposedly designed specifically to work with aluminium and MMO resulted in lot better results.
Probably the oil in it makes it "shinier". As I said, the real polishing action is from the abrasive. I welcome you to try it out. I've got a lot of experience with both polishing/cleaning aluminum as well as scotchbrite pads.
You want to really clean aluminum, a paste cleaner with a wheel will make it shine like chrome. A light goings over with a scotchbrite beforehand (careful not to remove too much material) on a drill preps the surface if it is heavily oxidized.
The great part about the pastes is they also contain a wax usually, so the surface stays polished a lot longer than just using a spray on cleaner (most of which are designed to clean coated wheels, so not actually designed to clean aluminum, but clear coat).
Well I have used oven cleaner before to clean oil spots on the floor of my garage, and it is very good for that! Picked that hint up from one of those who knew books.
The thing with the oven cleaners is that they can be extremely corrosive, the one i use has lye in it and produces quite the fume. My wife was cleaning the oven one time and got just a little drop above her rubber gloves and it burned the skin! but i digress...
If i were restoring old auto parts, i would likely try the less corrosive type cleaners first myself. jmo.
The thing with the oven cleaners is that they can be extremely corrosive, the one i use has lye in it and produces quite the fume. My wife was cleaning the oven one time and got just a little drop above her rubber gloves and it burned the skin! but i digress...
If i were restoring old auto parts, i would likely try the less corrosive type cleaners first myself. jmo.
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Since MMO is not much of a lubricant, you don't want to be using it with a noisy chain. I assume the VQ is an interference engine.
I've used MMO for the last 500 miles of an oil change. I'd also recommend perhaps doing a decarbonization using Seafoam or something similar feeding through the brake booster (depending on the car). I've certainly had better results decarbing than using MMO to clean out a car (better throttle response).
But just doing proper maintenance and in this case shorter intervals with a good oil will do the job safely.
But just doing proper maintenance and in this case shorter intervals with a good oil will do the job safely.
As a fellow VQ35DER owner, and as said earlier, I would use M1 0w40. I wouldn't recommend adding MMO to 5w30. These engines are noisy, but very noisy on 5w30. I have also had great results adding MMO to 0w40, but 0w40 matches factory oil PSI perfectly without anything as well.
my father used it i use it and most of my guys in the shop use it. i only use 10% in the oil
I spilled some MMO on my old Pistons from my harley when I went big bore. The Pistons had at least a 1/16th of hard carbon built up on them.
A few days after spilling the mmo on the piston I was fiddling around in my garage when I noticed I had spilled on one of them so I decided to put them up on a shelf. The hard carbon wiped off clean on my hand when I grabbed the piston.
Clean as the day it was made. No elbow grease,no effort whatsoever.
So I tried a little experiment. I saturated the mmo piston with mmo and put it on that shelf and the second piston I saturated with tc-w3 2 stroke oil.
A few days later I was in my garage and thought I'd have a look.
A shop rag to both Pistons wiped off what was once rock hard carbon.
So to anyone who feels mmo is old tech that's fine. It's old tech that softens carbon to the point of easily wiped off.
Op
Go a grade thicker when using the mmo in the oil and I suggest a lesser priced conventional because of the shirt interval.
But before doing anything confirm that there are deposits beforehand. Then monitor these deposits so you can at least know if the regimen is working or if you need to try something else.
Molekule has recommended rislone many times for its cleaning abilities so if the mmo isn't working as quick as you'd like try it out.
I like to do a piston soak with mmo in a new to me higher mileage vehicle. I suck it in thru a vacuum line and leave it sit overnight.
Then I run a can of Seafoam after the mmo just to clean everything out.
I've got an inverse oiler on my charger and now both my trucks.
It's funny. When the inverse oiler is empty in my charger I can feel the difference in responsiveness with light throttle inputs.
Since installing one on the charger I'm sold on their use and have one in all my vehicles. The intake tract has a light glaze of oil on everything and clean,and when I changed my plugs I used my inspection monitor to look inside the combustion chambers and piston tops and they are black however these no build up on them. And it was soft,not hard and crusty.
A few days after spilling the mmo on the piston I was fiddling around in my garage when I noticed I had spilled on one of them so I decided to put them up on a shelf. The hard carbon wiped off clean on my hand when I grabbed the piston.
Clean as the day it was made. No elbow grease,no effort whatsoever.
So I tried a little experiment. I saturated the mmo piston with mmo and put it on that shelf and the second piston I saturated with tc-w3 2 stroke oil.
A few days later I was in my garage and thought I'd have a look.
A shop rag to both Pistons wiped off what was once rock hard carbon.
So to anyone who feels mmo is old tech that's fine. It's old tech that softens carbon to the point of easily wiped off.
Op
Go a grade thicker when using the mmo in the oil and I suggest a lesser priced conventional because of the shirt interval.
But before doing anything confirm that there are deposits beforehand. Then monitor these deposits so you can at least know if the regimen is working or if you need to try something else.
Molekule has recommended rislone many times for its cleaning abilities so if the mmo isn't working as quick as you'd like try it out.
I like to do a piston soak with mmo in a new to me higher mileage vehicle. I suck it in thru a vacuum line and leave it sit overnight.
Then I run a can of Seafoam after the mmo just to clean everything out.
I've got an inverse oiler on my charger and now both my trucks.
It's funny. When the inverse oiler is empty in my charger I can feel the difference in responsiveness with light throttle inputs.
Since installing one on the charger I'm sold on their use and have one in all my vehicles. The intake tract has a light glaze of oil on everything and clean,and when I changed my plugs I used my inspection monitor to look inside the combustion chambers and piston tops and they are black however these no build up on them. And it was soft,not hard and crusty.
Bump!
Finally getting around to working on this truck as it's been parked for quite some time. Giving it a complete tune-up and trying to diagnose the loud rattle at startup. Popped off a timing chain cover today and look at all the sludge!
Should I continue with the Mobil 1 5w30 High Mileage Oil? It's very tempting to throw something else in there to help take this "baked on" sludge off...
Finally getting around to working on this truck as it's been parked for quite some time. Giving it a complete tune-up and trying to diagnose the loud rattle at startup. Popped off a timing chain cover today and look at all the sludge!
Should I continue with the Mobil 1 5w30 High Mileage Oil? It's very tempting to throw something else in there to help take this "baked on" sludge off...
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A grade heavier oil with some kreen might help that. I used kreen in a saturn, did not help consumption as it was a ring issue , but the pan was clean.
IF a Real syn (PAO and Ester base) plus sodium or magnesium detergent didnt clean that old dino deposit varnish?
Try MMO and report back, becauee now I got curious.
Try MMO and report back, becauee now I got curious.
MMO will make a start on that, I'd use it for an OCI or two and let it gently clean up the easy stuff. Then switch to something more aggressive like Kreen.
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: Legend11
Bump!
Finally getting around to working on this truck as it's been parked for quite some time. Giving it a complete tune-up and trying to diagnose the loud rattle at startup. Popped off a timing chain cover today and look at all the sludge!
Should I continue with the Mobil 1 5w30 High Mileage Oil? It's very tempting to throw something else in there to help take this "baked on" sludge off...
Personally, I would just let the oil do its thing and change it frequently with a good filter.
Bump!
Finally getting around to working on this truck as it's been parked for quite some time. Giving it a complete tune-up and trying to diagnose the loud rattle at startup. Popped off a timing chain cover today and look at all the sludge!
Should I continue with the Mobil 1 5w30 High Mileage Oil? It's very tempting to throw something else in there to help take this "baked on" sludge off...
Personally, I would just let the oil do its thing and change it frequently with a good filter.
For oil alone to clean that you would have to be a very young man indeed.
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: KCJeep
For oil alone to clean that you would have to be a very young man indeed.
The same goes for using an additive. If he wants to clean it up quickly, take it apart and using something that will actually take it off. Otherwise, just let the oil do its thing and don't worry about it if it is otherwise mechanically healthy. Breaking off chunks of that is not what one wants happening. The real issue is that it was allowed to get that way in the first place, IMHO.
For oil alone to clean that you would have to be a very young man indeed.
The same goes for using an additive. If he wants to clean it up quickly, take it apart and using something that will actually take it off. Otherwise, just let the oil do its thing and don't worry about it if it is otherwise mechanically healthy. Breaking off chunks of that is not what one wants happening. The real issue is that it was allowed to get that way in the first place, IMHO.
MrQuackers
Site Donor 2024
My current OCI in my SL2 was 1 quart of MMO, with Mobil 1 TDT 5w-40 and a bottle of STP HM. Initially it burned off at a slightly higher rate but now the rate is diminishing at an improved rate. I hope to get the consumption rate to >2k miles per quart.
I have been doing a lot of engine braking on deceleration hoping that helps in this process.
I have been doing a lot of engine braking on deceleration hoping that helps in this process.
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
...If you have mechanical problems MMO is not going to fix them. The nice thing about MMO is you can use it with dino or synthetic oils. It's cheap, easy to find, and it works.
x2.
+3 and it smells good.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
...If you have mechanical problems MMO is not going to fix them. The nice thing about MMO is you can use it with dino or synthetic oils. It's cheap, easy to find, and it works.
x2.
+3 and it smells good.
MrQuackers
Site Donor 2024
MMO
by Faberge
by Faberge
I'd use the MMO with the recommended ratio to your oil of choice with confidence. It will clean with out harming anything. Period.
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