Flywheel Resurfacing w/new clutch @ shops

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qdeezie

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As much as I want to do the work myself; if anything else, to assure myself that it's done right, I just don't have the time to replace the clutch on my Focus that has began slipping.

I have reached out to two shops so far about doing the repairs and it seems that I am saying a bad word when I mention that I want the flywheel resurfaced. Is it safe to assume that not resurfacing the flywheel is a common practice?

I can't speak for anyone else, but I want the maximum life out of my new clutch and resurfacing it assures that and is something I won't compromise on.

The latest shop I spoke to mentioned bringing a new flywheel for them to swap out....so is it a time (labor) issue the reason why places apparently don't want to resurface it or is it something with shops not knowing that this is a necessity OR am I just having bad luck so far and it is a common practice to resurface it?

I'm about to give in and buy a new flywheel and just hold on to the stock flywheel and have it resurfaced in the event 10 years or so down the line I need to replace the clutch again I can just swap it out.

Should I continue to just call around or just go with getting a new flywheel and keep the old one in the event I need to replace the clutch in 5 or 10 years?
 
We tend to get a new flywheel versus resurfacing. The machine shop here in town charges a pretty penny for the service.

Depending on the engine in your Focus, you probably have a dual mass flywheel. There are some that say you can machine them, but most machine shops will not touch them. Most of the manufacturers recommend against machining a dual mass (split mass in Ford language) flywheels because they cannot guarantee the ability of the shop doing the machining.
 
If it's a flywheel on a newer car, it probably doesn't have enough material for resurfacing and you'll need a new one. If it's an older one, have it resurfaced.
If you've ever installed a new clutch with all new goodies and don't have the flywheel resurfaced, there is a chance you will have "clutch chatter" as you pull away from a complete stop. That was taught to me by an auto instructor 30+ years ago and I've seen people who didn't believe in that theory and have paid the price.
 
I am thankful that I have the 2.0L Zetec in my Focus, so I will be able to avoid the exorbitant dual mass cost.

A new flywheel isn't terribly expensive, but figured I could save a few dollars by having it resurfaced.
 
The time to reface the Flywheel is when it needs doing ie. if there is significant scoring or Blue Hot Spots. If the FW is in good order after the clutch is removed, it will likely only need the Glaze to be busted.

Most places would have to send your FW out to a Machine shop the be resurfaced, this takes time and ties up shop space.

How long and how badly has the clutch been allowed to slip?
Do you suspect the FW is in a bad way?
 
Originally Posted By: expat
The time to reface the Flywheel is when it needs doing ie. if there is significant scoring or Blue Hot Spots. If the FW is in good order after the clutch is removed, it will likely only need the Glaze to be busted.

Most places would have to send your FW out to a Machine shop the be resurfaced, this takes time and ties up shop space.

How long and how badly has the clutch been allowed to slip?
Do you suspect the FW is in a bad way?


It hasn't been doing it for long. I bought the car with 162k on it and now it's right around 181k, so it's about time. Sometimes it slips and sometimes it doesn't, but I always feel chatter when engaging it, so along with stopping the slippage, I want to put an end to the chattering as well.

I don't think the flywheel is bad, but I do suspect the surface of the flywheel is contributing to the chattering, however.
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
We tend to get a new flywheel versus resurfacing.


I'll probably just go ahead and order a new one off of this alone.
 
In looking up your application, the OEM one is obsolete. There are aftermarket ones from Luk that are fairly affordable and would be less than having a shop turn your existing one.
 
Such [censored]. I used to work at a place that resurfaced flywheels. Took about 5 minutes, and they charged the trade $15-20 for normal automotive types. Stepped or cup flywheels were a few bucks more. I would never trust a shop that would ignore such a basic thing.
 
Originally Posted By: Kruse
If it's a flywheel on a newer car, it probably doesn't have enough material for resurfacing and you'll need a new one. If it's an older one, have it resurfaced.
If you've ever installed a new clutch with all new goodies and don't have the flywheel resurfaced, there is a chance you will have "clutch chatter" as you pull away from a complete stop. That was taught to me by an auto instructor 30+ years ago and I've seen people who didn't believe in that theory and have paid the price.

My first DIY clutch replacement did not have the flywheel resurfaced and the clutch worked just fine. Later I had shops do my clutch and not resurface the flywheel, think the last one just lightly sanded the surface, and the clutch is working fine, no chatter, grabs nice and smooth. But I am sure there are cases where this does not work. Sort of like putting new brake shoes and not turning the drum if it does not look bad. Have done that too.

If you have a non-adjustable clutch linkage with concentric slave cylinder and resurface the flywheel, then you are supposed to shim it or it will be farther from the slave and may not fully disengage or engage near the floor.
 
A new flywheel for a common car is cheap enough that I'd probably just replace it.
While it's out, you might consider having a new RMS driven in as well.
Cheap, since all of the labor to get to it has already been done and the part itself is dirt cheap.
 
If they are in an area like here theres nobody that can surface a flywheel. Napa ruined the one on our shop truck.Somehow Ground it .080 (yes .080,about double most spark plug gaps)off kilter. They ended up providing a new one. Maybe the shop does not turn them due to no good machine shops around and would rather take a chance on the old one.

The service manual for my jeep states that the flywheel is not to be turned. It must be replaced if its bad.

I did turn the one in my truck recently. Cost 1/2 day of driving and $75.
 
Ya the last time we had a basic flywheel for a Ranger machined, the shop wanted $130 to machine it. Not worth the down time to do it when you can get a new name brand aftermarket one for about the same price.
 
Last clutch I did was a 95 Probe. I had the local machine shop machine the flywheel. work. It cleaned up well, and was reinstalled with machined spacers behind it to compensate for the material loss. The clutch was smooth, and worked well. I sold it soon after, so can't comment on longevity, but I'm in the camp that if you have something that far apart, put it back together with either new, or as new parts. I personally like steel flywheels, but there are aluminum options for you that will let the engine rev a bit quicker.
 
Last edited:
Heh heh. did a few clutches 40 odd yrs ago. Bought the Rat because "It just needs a clutch" I was thinking Bugs. Clutch .PP and throw out bearing for 50$ Not anymore Pilgrim. Long story short, I looked all over for a shop that would re-surface a slightly blued fly wheel. I bought a new fly wheel for 60$ from Auto Zone. So much for buying USA made stuff. Old Ranger owners forum advised me to replace everything because you won't want to drop the trans again. I replaced from the RMS out to the pedal pad. I tell you what, this is my first manual trans in 30 yrs. The clutch works perfectly.
 
Every shop I ever worked at sent the flywheel out for resurfacing. The only reason I could see a shop not wanting to would be local machine shop availability, and new flywheel cost.
 
Just remember, new flywheels are going to be Chinese. Personally, I would find somewhere that would send it out. It can't cost more than $50ish.

Only reason I can think of that they don't want to remove the FW is that they would have to remove the transmission. They can just pull it back some and slip in a new disc and PP without full removal, but removing the FW would be more difficult this way,
 
I'd opt for a new flywheel. If they take too much off, or don't properly shim it you'll have a whole new set of problems, and the clutch life will be shorter as a result.
 
Price shop a new flywheel, better off long term then resurfacing

For the love of god, pay the extra .5 hour labor to change the rear main seal while the tech is in there.
 
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