Stripped Drainplug, used expanding rubber...

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So I've been using different gaskets on my original drain plug for years.
Sometime in the past someone inserted it cockeyed and ever since it has slowly leaked.

I got tired of replacing the gaskets, they only kind of worked. They always weeped, very slowly, due to them being seated cockeyed.

Long story short, I went out and bought an oversized drain plug. After trying to get it to fit by working it in and out of the oil pan for 45 minutes, and worrying about the seal of my drain pan as I see it flex as I torque that thing back and forth, I called it a day.

I wanted the oversized drain plug to fit, but I didn't have the muscle, patience, or the fortitude to watch the oil pan flex any more.
So I went and picked up one of those universal drain hole bongs. The one that you twist and it expands like the keeper for a wine bottle.
It seems to work well.

Has anyone else had the issue I'm having?
I just couldn't figure out what else to do.
This is on a 2002 Ford Taurus, with the Vulcan SOHC and 206,000 miles young.
 
Measure the hole opening and get an oversize Fumoto valve and JBWeld or Loctite it in there. Then just drain away with the Fumoto.
 
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Another method is to seal the drain hole like you have and use a fluid extractor and suck all of the oil out of the dipstick tube when hot. I change my kids Honda civic this way. Then you just change the filter into a drain pan. Some engines can be drained this way and some cannot.
 
Originally Posted By: Doog
Measure the hole opening and get an oversize Fumoto valve and JBWeld or Loctite it in there. Then just drain away with the Fumoto.

I was going to recommend the same. The less you unscrew your plug in the compromised hole the better. Better to fix it now and not have to remove than to keep futzing with it and need a new drain pan.
 
You could also consider running Mobil1 EP and a Fram Ultra filter for 15,000 miles and cut down on the number of actual oil changes as well.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
This is on a 2002 Ford Taurus, with the Vulcan SOHC and 206,000 miles young.


The Vulcan is an OHV engine - complete with pushrods.

I would've gotten a tap and tapped the hole the next size up.

I don't trust those drain plugs that supposedly tap their own threads.
 
How difficult is it to remove the lower pan, tap it appropriately and call it a day?
 
I used one on my '89 f150 since prior to my ownership the drain plug had gotten messed up.

I never had an issue with it. I can understand BITOGrs desire to fix it the right way, but different people are in different situations and have varying amounts of pressures from multiple angles and a several hour job might not be an option.
 
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
I used one on my '89 f150 since prior to my ownership the drain plug had gotten messed up.

I never had an issue with it. I can understand BITOGrs desire to fix it the right way, but different people are in different situations and have varying amounts of pressures from multiple angles and a several hour job might not be an option

Photo or link to the bung method?
 
I can't find the 10 year old thread where I previously posted a picture of that, but i believe some indicated they would "never use that"; If we are talking 'doing the job right', maybe not what to use, but if you want to prevent oil from dripping out with not a lot of hassle, that thing is for you.

One has to make sure, depending on engine, if there is clearance inside the pan to have that installed.

Darn if I spend a 1/2 saturday fixing someone elses SNAFU for a vehicle that in the end will be towed away or donated.
 
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I would dab a bit of black Permatex on the drain plug, re-install and let it cure. Get yourself some sort of pump and just siphon the oil through the dipstick tube.

I have a hard time trusting the fix all drain plugs too. They seem to work for a certain time and just leak again..
 
We are talking about a 13 year old domestic sedan with the base engine and spacecraft mileage. I think the simple, good enough repair is the way to go here.
 
Originally Posted By: javacontour
We are talking about a 13 year old domestic sedan with the base engine and spacecraft mileage. I think the simple, good enough repair is the way to go here.



That's kind of what I'm thinking.

Also, if what I have works, I'm thinking I'm going to build a vac-u-suck type of oil changing device using a 5 gallon pale, my shop vac, and a thin rubber hose that I can fit down the dipstick into the drainpan to eliminate having to put the car up on ramps.

Also, depending on if this stops the leaking, I just may start going to the 7,000-10,000 mile OCI on synthetic. Most of it's life my Taurus has had 3,000 mile OCI's that I was religious about. Right now I'm doing 5,000 on dino, and that works out to about 2 OCI's a year.
I honestly don't know if I could ever wait for 10K to roll along.
When I have spare time, and I have 5,000 miles on the clock, I have to find other things to do. Otherwise not changing the oil really bugs me. (Either that or we have ice on the ground and using Ramps is not possible.)

BTW, I have relatively new tires on her, I did another a cooler line flush of the Transmission 5K ago, and I took her out on the tollway yesterday and got her up to 75mph. Drove like a champ.

With regular OCI's I think I may be able to get another 100k or 200k out of her.
(Although, I think everything else on the car will slowly go first.)
 
Not that I have ever used one, but I didn't see any mention of the oversized, self tapping drain plugs. It seems to me that if those work they would be the cheapest and easiest way to go.

But, as I said, I haven't ever had the need to try one.
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
Not that I have ever used one, but I didn't see any mention of the oversized, self tapping drain plugs. It seems to me that if those work they would be the cheapest and easiest way to go.

But, as I said, I haven't ever had the need to try one.



That's what started this thread. The "Self Tapping" isn't really that self tapping. More like "Kinda tapping", or "Sorta tapping".
 
I'd bet the pan on a Vulcan Taurus is pretty easy to swap. When I've changed oil on on them, there didn't seem to be much in the way. Certainly much easier than my Vulcan Ranger.

And if the pan gasket has never been done before, it's leaking anyway.

If keeping the car, a replacement pan would be my vote. If this is a beater...just keep an eye on the expanding plug. Those things usually start to leak when reused.
 
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