2013 Sonata engine shudder

[Swift101]

Hey Everyone,

My car has developed a strange engine shudder that occurs only between the temps of 35-40F. It happens when the car is still warming up, when I pull up to a red light and put my foot on the brake pedal the front end makes a vibrating/shuddering noise. You can only hear it from the inside, it sounds like something under the hood or maybe dash is vibrating.

If I shift into neutral or park it goes away. It looks like the RPM drops in drive, but it won't happen when the car is warmed up or if its colder (20F) or warmer out (45F). I recently installed a front strut bar, but I'm not sure it's responsible for causing the vibration I'm hearing.

I checked the oil level this morning, it's right at the full mark. I might try some injector cleaner but it's worth noting Hyundai recommends frequent spark plug replacement in these engines. I believe the manual states to change the spark plugs at 45K, more frequently if the car idles or is driven at slow speeds. I've also seen the 2011 manual indicate to change the plugs out at 22.5K.

Any ideas?

-Thanks

 

[dlayman]

What transmission is in your vehicle? Is it a CVT?

wow, 22.5k change for plugs?! Guess that's one way Hyundai can afford their 100k powertrain warranty.

 

[bigt61]

Likely just a harmonics issue with the torque converter. It may even go away in time. This was common on all early generation 70's-80's Honda Accords with auto transmission when they were new - it went away in time - the whole dashboard would vibrate and move. Loosen the strut bar bolts and see if the issue is still there. If it becomes unbearable - try a different ATF approved by Hyundai.

 

[Swift101]

Originally Posted By: dlayman
What transmission is in your vehicle? Is it a CVT?

wow, 22.5k change for plugs?! Guess that's one way Hyundai can afford their 100k powertrain warranty.


It's a 6 speed auto, Hyundai launched it with the 2011 Sonata redesign.


Quote:
Likely just a harmonics issue with the torque converter. It may even go away in time. This was common on all early generation 70's-80's Honda Accords with auto transmission when they were new - it went away in time - the whole dashboard would vibrate and move. Loosen the strut bar bolts and see if the issue is still there. If it becomes unbearable - try a different ATF approved by Hyundai.


I might have over torqued the bolts on the strut bar, I used my Milwaukee 1/2 impact wrench.

I'll loosen the bolts a bit. I just read they should be at 45 lb-ft.

Hopefully I didn't cause any damage by over tightening.

-Thanks

 

[NHGUY]

If it happens when parked as well....Incomplete combustion.Happens when cold.Putting a load on the engine at low RPMs with a closed throttle makes it worse.Once you punch the throttle I bet it goes away.Cold intake air doesn't allow a cold engine to burn efficiently.

 

[SrDriver]

Hyundai has a 10 year 100,000 mile warranty on the drive-train and a 5 year 60,000 mile warranty on other stuff so why not have the dealer take a look at it?

 

[Swift101]

Originally Posted By: SrDriver
Hyundai has a 10 year 100,000 mile warranty on the drive-train and a 5 year 60,000 mile warranty on other stuff so why not have the dealer take a look at it?


I would take it in, but most of the time they keep the car for a day and tell me I'm imagining the problem. Or they say all cars do that or some other kind of excuse.

I might take it in if it continues, I was just wondering if there was anything I could do on my own.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Sound like bad gas or ig prob. Do you romp on it often enough to keep the piston crust at bay?

Revisit any changes you've made, an intake leak will cause idle problems also you CANNOT MODIFY or REMOVE INTAKE TUMORS. they are there to PREVENT intake resonances at certain RPM and throttle angles. A resonance will cause improper metering of air through the MAF.

I find E10 is causing ALL KINDS of engine performance problems.

Never been this bad.

 

[Swift101]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Sound like bad gas or ig prob. Do you romp on it often enough to keep the piston crust at bay?

Revisit any changes you've made, an intake leak will cause idle problems also you CANNOT MODIFY or REMOVE INTAKE TUMORS. they are there to PREVENT intake resonances at certain RPM and throttle angles. A resonance will cause improper metering of air through the MAF.

I find E10 is causing ALL KINDS of engine performance problems.

Never been this bad.


Thanks for the tips, I've been buying gas at BJ's recently, never had a problem with it before. But then again I was using top tier fuel religiously up to 5k (26k now) miles ago.

Also I have been babying the car a little bit, I might give it an Italian tune-up after putting in a bottle of techron.

 

[Falken]

Transmission is groaning from cold temperature.

If it was a temp/combustion issue that would make it shake that bad it would throw a code for sure.

My Fit came with ZF trans fluid, I shifted completely to DW-1 and with age the trans shudder went away.

 

[wemay]

Hi Swift101,

I hope you figure it out. The possibilities are so varied that i won't venture to offer anything further. Keep us posted and definitely find a better dealership.

 

[antiqueshell]

Originally Posted By: Swift101

I would take it in, but most of the time they keep the car for a day and tell me I'm imagining the problem. Or they say all cars do that or some other kind of excuse.

.


Typical hyundai kia $tealership behavior. But then again I think the manufacturer tells the service dept to do as little warranty repair as possible....so the long warranty isn't really worth much in the end.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
Originally Posted By: Swift101

I would take it in, but most of the time they keep the car for a day and tell me I'm imagining the problem. Or they say all cars do that or some other kind of excuse.

.


Typical hyundai kia $tealership behavior. But then again I think the manufacturer tells the service dept to do as little warranty repair as possible....so the long warranty isn't really worth much in the end.


Totally the opposite from my experience and what I've read.

 

[Swift101]

Hey Everyone,

Quick update, I discovered that a metal clip/hose clamp is hitting the bottom side of the strut. It has about 1/16 inch clearance but when the powertrain is cold and vibrating it taps the bar. When everything warms up the clip is firmly placed against the bar.

I plan to use some foam insulation tape I have laying around to solve the problem. Does anyone know if using a product like this would be a fire hazard?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Armacell-2-in-x-30-ft-R-1-Foam-Insulation-Tape-TAP18230/100539553